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No Start - not even clicking????

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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 09:22 PM
  #26  
RotaryEvolution's Avatar
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cleaning the small wire connector is a good idea too, it often collects oil and dirt which causes it to have resistance and fail to send the signal to the starter.
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 10:24 PM
  #27  
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Mine being an automatic, I can't roll start the thing if the starter dies- it did once. I whacked the solenoid with a hammer and that got it going once. I then had the solenoid overhauled.

The exciter spade terminal on the solenoid often gets cruddy and gains resistance so a good clean helps.
The autos had a separate issue where the solenoid wire passes through the neutral inhibitor switch on the gearbox and is a longer wire- it loses voltage and more so when the wire gets hot from engine bay temps. The autos often don't start when they are hot at all, until the solenoid wire cools down and loses resistance.
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 10:35 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SA3R
Mine being an automatic, I can't roll start the thing if the starter dies- it did once. I whacked the solenoid with a hammer and that got it going once. I then had the solenoid overhauled.

The exciter spade terminal on the solenoid often gets cruddy and gains resistance so a good clean helps.
The autos had a separate issue where the solenoid wire passes through the neutral inhibitor switch on the gearbox and is a longer wire- it loses voltage and more so when the wire gets hot from engine bay temps. The autos often don't start when they are hot at all, until the solenoid wire cools down and loses resistance.
that's easy to fix.
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 07:28 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by blue87
Haha I did the exact same thing a few years back thought it was funny that a little spade connector is one of the lowest points on the bottom of our cars!

Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
cleaning the small wire connector is a good idea too, it often collects oil and dirt which causes it to have resistance and fail to send the signal to the starter.
This and this!

Mine requires me to turn the key 5-6 times before it starts. When it rains it requires about 10-15 tries.

One day it wouldn't do anything like this post topic says. I reached under the car (mine is not lowered) pulled the connector, hit it with a wire brush for 30 seconds, connected it back and it started right up.


Ideally, i would like the encase that whole connector with silicone or even use dielectric grease for once lol.
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 07:13 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Rotary13B1
Jumper that Blue plug (security interlock switch?) by the drivers dead pedal. I was dealing with a no start issue one day as well. free check/fix if you have some wire/ spade connectors lying around.





jumper the two large guage wires.
My FD wasn’t cranking at all (it sat for years in my garage), interior power, headlights, brake light, all work. Brand new battery, turn key, nothing, no starter click. I yanked out this blue plug and jumped the pins as pictured... and she cranks!! So now to see if fuel pump works siphon whatever gas is leftover, if any, and will change the plugs and wires.

any precautions I should take while trying to start her up again?

thank you!!
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 08:35 AM
  #31  
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How many years has the car sat?

Bare minimum I would change oil and pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you build oil pressure before actually trying to start it. Starting an engine that has sat for a long time on dry bearings is bad, same for the turbos.

You will probably have to change gas if it's funky. If it's sat for a VERY long time you may have a rusty tank. You will also need to go through the brakes before driving, they are probably rusty and could be seized up.

Dale
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 04:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
How many years has the car sat?

Bare minimum I would change oil and pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you build oil pressure before actually trying to start it. Starting an engine that has sat for a long time on dry bearings is bad, same for the turbos.

You will probably have to change gas if it's funky. If it's sat for a VERY long time you may have a rusty tank. You will also need to go through the brakes before driving, they are probably rusty and could be seized up.

Dale
Mmm, maybe 5 years since I've started it. I'll do what you mentioned re: EGI fuse and cranking the engine. I'm sure the gas is gone but I may take the opp to install walbro fuel pump that i've had sitting brand new in box.. What's the best way to check the gas situation? from the top where the fuel pump is? The gauge reads 1/4 tank but yea I wouldn't want anything to do with what's in there. TIA!
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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 08:48 AM
  #33  
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I would pull the fuel pump assembly out and take a look in the tank. It may be fine, but it's a good idea to double check.

Dale
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 09:29 PM
  #34  
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Auto tranny. I have had random no crank incidents. Over a period of time, the dealer mechanics replaced the starter three times and the ignition switch once.. They never found the gremlin. I had the mechanic install a hot wire circuit, so if the ignition switch did not activate the starter, I have a button switch so I can turn the ignition to ON and then hit the hot wire button. It might be that full voltage off the battery is enough to overcome the gremlin and activate the solenoid and starter.
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Old Sep 6, 2021 | 10:13 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by rousu
Auto tranny. I have had random no crank incidents. Over a period of time, the dealer mechanics replaced the starter three times and the ignition switch once.. They never found the gremlin. I had the mechanic install a hot wire circuit, so if the ignition switch did not activate the starter, I have a button switch so I can turn the ignition to ON and then hit the hot wire button. It might be that full voltage off the battery is enough to overcome the gremlin and activate the solenoid and starter.

Bumping this up. Any pics or additional description of this hot wire circuit Rousu???
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