No Start - not even clicking????
Mine being an automatic, I can't roll start the thing if the starter dies- it did once. I whacked the solenoid with a hammer and that got it going once. I then had the solenoid overhauled.
The exciter spade terminal on the solenoid often gets cruddy and gains resistance so a good clean helps.
The autos had a separate issue where the solenoid wire passes through the neutral inhibitor switch on the gearbox and is a longer wire- it loses voltage and more so when the wire gets hot from engine bay temps. The autos often don't start when they are hot at all, until the solenoid wire cools down and loses resistance.
The exciter spade terminal on the solenoid often gets cruddy and gains resistance so a good clean helps.
The autos had a separate issue where the solenoid wire passes through the neutral inhibitor switch on the gearbox and is a longer wire- it loses voltage and more so when the wire gets hot from engine bay temps. The autos often don't start when they are hot at all, until the solenoid wire cools down and loses resistance.
Mine being an automatic, I can't roll start the thing if the starter dies- it did once. I whacked the solenoid with a hammer and that got it going once. I then had the solenoid overhauled.
The exciter spade terminal on the solenoid often gets cruddy and gains resistance so a good clean helps.
The autos had a separate issue where the solenoid wire passes through the neutral inhibitor switch on the gearbox and is a longer wire- it loses voltage and more so when the wire gets hot from engine bay temps. The autos often don't start when they are hot at all, until the solenoid wire cools down and loses resistance.
The exciter spade terminal on the solenoid often gets cruddy and gains resistance so a good clean helps.
The autos had a separate issue where the solenoid wire passes through the neutral inhibitor switch on the gearbox and is a longer wire- it loses voltage and more so when the wire gets hot from engine bay temps. The autos often don't start when they are hot at all, until the solenoid wire cools down and loses resistance.
Mine requires me to turn the key 5-6 times before it starts. When it rains it requires about 10-15 tries.
One day it wouldn't do anything like this post topic says. I reached under the car (mine is not lowered) pulled the connector, hit it with a wire brush for 30 seconds, connected it back and it started right up.
Ideally, i would like the encase that whole connector with silicone or even use dielectric grease for once lol.
any precautions I should take while trying to start her up again?
thank you!!
How many years has the car sat?
Bare minimum I would change oil and pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you build oil pressure before actually trying to start it. Starting an engine that has sat for a long time on dry bearings is bad, same for the turbos.
You will probably have to change gas if it's funky. If it's sat for a VERY long time you may have a rusty tank. You will also need to go through the brakes before driving, they are probably rusty and could be seized up.
Dale
Bare minimum I would change oil and pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you build oil pressure before actually trying to start it. Starting an engine that has sat for a long time on dry bearings is bad, same for the turbos.
You will probably have to change gas if it's funky. If it's sat for a VERY long time you may have a rusty tank. You will also need to go through the brakes before driving, they are probably rusty and could be seized up.
Dale
How many years has the car sat?
Bare minimum I would change oil and pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you build oil pressure before actually trying to start it. Starting an engine that has sat for a long time on dry bearings is bad, same for the turbos.
You will probably have to change gas if it's funky. If it's sat for a VERY long time you may have a rusty tank. You will also need to go through the brakes before driving, they are probably rusty and could be seized up.
Dale
Bare minimum I would change oil and pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine until you build oil pressure before actually trying to start it. Starting an engine that has sat for a long time on dry bearings is bad, same for the turbos.
You will probably have to change gas if it's funky. If it's sat for a VERY long time you may have a rusty tank. You will also need to go through the brakes before driving, they are probably rusty and could be seized up.
Dale
Auto tranny. I have had random no crank incidents. Over a period of time, the dealer mechanics replaced the starter three times and the ignition switch once.. They never found the gremlin. I had the mechanic install a hot wire circuit, so if the ignition switch did not activate the starter, I have a button switch so I can turn the ignition to ON and then hit the hot wire button. It might be that full voltage off the battery is enough to overcome the gremlin and activate the solenoid and starter.
Auto tranny. I have had random no crank incidents. Over a period of time, the dealer mechanics replaced the starter three times and the ignition switch once.. They never found the gremlin. I had the mechanic install a hot wire circuit, so if the ignition switch did not activate the starter, I have a button switch so I can turn the ignition to ON and then hit the hot wire button. It might be that full voltage off the battery is enough to overcome the gremlin and activate the solenoid and starter.
Bumping this up. Any pics or additional description of this hot wire circuit Rousu???
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