Hey guys, changed out the starter thought it might be the cause of a no start. Had to jump start everytime, getting the battery to 13.8v not bad for once or twice a month driving but got old. Changed the starter, now wont start at all. Wired both the red and plastic harness cable to the power side clipped in the clippy clip. Any leads? Clicks, fuel pump goes. lights dim slightly.

 

Does it turn over at all, or just clicks? If it just clicks and doesn't turn over, Do you have the click click start relay fix installed. If not, your wiring might have finally kicked the bucket and time to do the relay mod to give the starter solenoid full juice

 

Hey thanks for the reply twincharged. Relay fixed. Doesnt turn over at all.

 

Ground wire attached to the TX bolt?
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Could be your security relay, read this thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-relay-872841/

 

hit the solenoid's blade terminal with a jumper cable from the positive terminal.
if it doesn't turn over then, there's something wrong with the starter or your installation job.

 

Been a long time since I've used this forum lol so you can jumper the wire on starter motor to make sure it's actually working the smaller wire is the 12v signal wire just to confirm the motor is working then use a multimeter set to 20v range when u turn the key make sure you are getting a 12v feed at the starter wire,

Make sure you have a good chassis ground good connection from battery to chassis and battery to engine

 

the little wire is clipped in and the other two wires are connected to the power. I check the clip again to make sure its good. I was hoping it was gonna start better instead of not start! I want to say the security relay is bypassed rotary performance did all the reliability mods.

 

OK so let's break it down and see it clearly.

1) Wire is clipped for the solenoid/switch
2) big wire is connected to pos
3) ground strap is connected to the TX bolt
4) Starter cut relay (black relay w/ blue connector next to CPU #2
5) The starter you put in, is it new? are you sure it worked before install?
6) status of your battery? I've had batteries go bad before that still read 12-13V but are dead when it comes to CCAs
7) starter interlock switch - on the clutch pedal

Have you applied 12V directly to the starter switch yet? Bypassing everything else, this will tell us if it is the starter or something else.

 

https://imgur.com/a/TC1ZELy

 

I do beleive that those are the two you short together with the key turned.

The car is out of gear.
Some sort of jack, jack stands and wheel stops.
Connect the two parts together with a wrench.
Wear some really good gloves or there could be a good shock to the system.
The first time that I tried this I jumped a little, it's a bit sparky......
You really don't need a lot of contact time, just enoiugh to see if the starter moves.

 

Here in the car right now tightened everything that was even loose. Picked up a new battery juiced it up with a jump clicks no start still tho

 

Sorry, I don't understand slang. What did you do exactly? "Jumped it up" means nothing to me.
Perhaps I am just old and someone can decipher this.

 

O no thats just ed-ism. I jumped it with my other car to ensure good voltage and charge on the battery I bought today.

 

Ok, I thought the picture was posted so you could bridge those two terminals. I was just trying to get you there.

If you are saying that you ran jumper cables, a new battery and turned the key. You still need to jumper the two leads on the starter.
If that fails, the starter is bad, the engine is seized or the wiring is bad.

Best wishes, I should probably duck outa here now and leave this to the better initiated.

 

Yes. Apply 12V directly to the Starter and the starter switch.
Take the entire rest of the car out of the equation. Essentially 'bench test' the starter while its still on the car.
We need to check individual items to rule out what works and find what doesn't.

 

Bridged the starter and it spinned so its good?

 

do it with the ignition on

 

Spinned again

 

Hmm. The engine should have started if you didn't have any other issues.
Bypass the clutch switch and see if it will at least turn over from the key.

If it does, you need to replace the clutch switch and diagnose the no-start.

If it doesn't, you probably have some sort of electrical gremlin above my paygrade. Unless your spade connector is broken or something...

 

clutch switch can be bypassed entirely or just for the sake of troubleshooting it can be. unplug it and jump the wires together. never replace a clutch switch unless your tuning strategy calls for it. just remove it.

 

As a general rule, I don’t recommend permanently bypassing safety features.

One more thing he could try is checking the trigger wire for current when the key is turned.

 

Had a pettit racing starter (booster)laying around since 2012. Plugged it in and started up, kinda messy. Don't know if its just the fuel flooded in there or not synced right with clutch. Cleared up as I drove 50 miles. Havent tried to turn it on again probably will wait til the holiday traffic dies down in a month to see how it goes. I guess the upgraded starter needed the solenoid booster, would have been better with just a regular starter but o well glad to just get her running. Didnt even need to connect the jumper cables to juice up the battery which I just realized I may have left lying in the grass. Thanks Valk and FD Auto.

 

@Valkyrie That 'safety feature' is USDM thing. Manuals in other countries don't typically have clutch lockout switches because they assume people aren't dumb enough to start the car in gear.

 

That isn't true. They've been required in Japan since 1999. The last generation of JDM FD did in fact have them.
It's also a good idea to have either a clutch or neutral lockout. A lot of people in Japan were installing remote starters on manual cars and inadvertently crashed them into things/people (because the parking brake won't stop it).