No power for windows, sunroof, or windshield wiper motor
08-26-13, 08:13 AM
#1
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No power for windows, sunroof, or windshield wiper motor
So it seems I have no power to the Power windows,Sunroof,windshield wiper motor, as well as the headlights and flip motor.
Putting my car back together after painting and this is my issue.
The power mirrors on the doors and the door locks are working. dome lights and gauge cluster are working, as well as the rear wiper motor.
The TNS relay has 11.xx volts and the retra relay has .0x (if any) don't know if that's supposed to have voltage?
the interior wiper fuse voltage is 3.xx..
just a little suck any advise would help!
Putting my car back together after painting and this is my issue.
The power mirrors on the doors and the door locks are working. dome lights and gauge cluster are working, as well as the rear wiper motor.
The TNS relay has 11.xx volts and the retra relay has .0x (if any) don't know if that's supposed to have voltage?
the interior wiper fuse voltage is 3.xx..
just a little suck any advise would help!
08-26-13, 11:11 AM
#2
So it seems I have no power to the Power windows,Sunroof,windshield wiper motor, as well as the headlights and flip motor.
Putting my car back together after painting and this is my issue.
The power mirrors on the doors and the door locks are working. dome lights and gauge cluster are working, as well as the rear wiper motor.
The TNS relay has 11.xx volts and the retra relay has .0x (if any) don't know if that's supposed to have voltage?
the interior wiper fuse voltage is 3.xx..
just a little suck any advise would help!
Putting my car back together after painting and this is my issue.
The power mirrors on the doors and the door locks are working. dome lights and gauge cluster are working, as well as the rear wiper motor.
The TNS relay has 11.xx volts and the retra relay has .0x (if any) don't know if that's supposed to have voltage?
the interior wiper fuse voltage is 3.xx..
just a little suck any advise would help!
B1, B2, WIPER, POWER WIND, HEAD, and RETRACTOR
If all of those fuses are good, it's your grounds. Specifically, I'd check ground points:
1, 2, 7, and 12
1 and 2 are on your front crash bar.
From the diagrams I believe 7 is in the driver's kick panel area
12 is in the rear of your spare tire holder.
If you've taken apart your car for paint and took your harnesses out, my money would be on a ground lug you missed and didn't bolt back up.
Lane
08-27-13, 07:17 AM
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I expect you've checked your fuses, but just in case, check:
B1, B2, WIPER, POWER WIND, HEAD, and RETRACTOR
If all of those fuses are good, it's your grounds. Specifically, I'd check ground points:
1, 2, 7, and 12
1 and 2 are on your front crash bar.
From the diagrams I believe 7 is in the driver's kick panel area
12 is in the rear of your spare tire holder.
If you've taken apart your car for paint and took your harnesses out, my money would be on a ground lug you missed and didn't bolt back up.
Lane
B1, B2, WIPER, POWER WIND, HEAD, and RETRACTOR
If all of those fuses are good, it's your grounds. Specifically, I'd check ground points:
1, 2, 7, and 12
1 and 2 are on your front crash bar.
From the diagrams I believe 7 is in the driver's kick panel area
12 is in the rear of your spare tire holder.
If you've taken apart your car for paint and took your harnesses out, my money would be on a ground lug you missed and didn't bolt back up.
Lane
Thanks for the response Lane, I have checked all of them, just did the relays when I got back. I tested the relays this morning and They all showed 76.x ohms. I am borrowing a probe meter from a friend to test them.
But the one weird thing is voltages from the driver kick box fuse panel.
power window 3.83
sun roof 3.83
wiper 3.83
door locks 11.83
rear wiper 8.83 ( but it dose work)
08-27-13, 07:34 AM
#4
Thanks for the response Lane, I have checked all of them, just did the relays when I got back. I tested the relays this morning and They all showed 76.x ohms. I am borrowing a probe meter from a friend to test them.
But the one weird thing is voltages from the driver kick box fuse panel.
power window 3.83
sun roof 3.83
wiper 3.83
door locks 11.83
rear wiper 8.83 ( but it dose work)
But the one weird thing is voltages from the driver kick box fuse panel.
power window 3.83
sun roof 3.83
wiper 3.83
door locks 11.83
rear wiper 8.83 ( but it dose work)
How are you measuring at the fuses? Are you just sticking your + probe one one of the fuse legs and the - probe on a bare piece of chassis metal? Power windows, sun roof, and front wipers are fed by switched 12v. Are you measuring with the key in the on position? Have you tried switching on any of these suspect devices when you're measuring? If so, does the voltage drop substantially? How is your car running? Does it crank and run like it should?
Something just doesn't add up. Your power windows, sun roof, and front wipers are fed with the switched 12v Black/Yellow wire coming out of your ignition cylinder. Your door locks are direct to the battery. Your rear wiper is powered by the Black/White wire coming from your ignition cylinder. I would be more suspicious of a battery connection if the rear wiper shared a connection to the battery with the rest of the faulty items but since their separate, it makes that possibility a lot less likely.
My money is still on the grounds. If you've double checked them, I'd triple check them and when I say 'check them' I don't mean visually confirming they are there, I mean unscrewing them, brushing the lug/connector with a stainless brush until it shines, brush the ground point on the chassis until it shines, then bolt the two together again. Fact, stock grounds are ****, especially the two on the front crash bar and the ground in the spare tire well. When I re-did the wiring in my car I chopped off the mazda ground connectors and wired them to a beefy ring terminals that I could really bolt down.
Lane
08-27-13, 08:33 AM
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I don't understand the ohm test on the relays. Are you measuring the resistance of the relay coil? I don't understand how that diagnoses anything. With relays, either they open & close or they don't.
How are you measuring at the fuses? Are you just sticking your + probe one one of the fuse legs and the - probe on a bare piece of chassis metal? Power windows, sun roof, and front wipers are fed by switched 12v. Are you measuring with the key in the on position? Have you tried switching on any of these suspect devices when you're measuring? If so, does the voltage drop substantially? How is your car running? Does it crank and run like it should?
Something just doesn't add up. Your power windows, sun roof, and front wipers are fed with the switched 12v Black/Yellow wire coming out of your ignition cylinder. Your door locks are direct to the battery. Your rear wiper is powered by the Black/White wire coming from your ignition cylinder. I would be more suspicious of a battery connection if the rear wiper shared a connection to the battery with the rest of the faulty items but since their separate, it makes that possibility a lot less likely.
My money is still on the grounds. If you've double checked them, I'd triple check them and when I say 'check them' I don't mean visually confirming they are there, I mean unscrewing them, brushing the lug/connector with a stainless brush until it shines, brush the ground point on the chassis until it shines, then bolt the two together again. Fact, stock grounds are ****, especially the two on the front crash bar and the ground in the spare tire well. When I re-did the wiring in my car I chopped off the mazda ground connectors and wired them to a beefy ring terminals that I could really bolt down.
Lane
How are you measuring at the fuses? Are you just sticking your + probe one one of the fuse legs and the - probe on a bare piece of chassis metal? Power windows, sun roof, and front wipers are fed by switched 12v. Are you measuring with the key in the on position? Have you tried switching on any of these suspect devices when you're measuring? If so, does the voltage drop substantially? How is your car running? Does it crank and run like it should?
Something just doesn't add up. Your power windows, sun roof, and front wipers are fed with the switched 12v Black/Yellow wire coming out of your ignition cylinder. Your door locks are direct to the battery. Your rear wiper is powered by the Black/White wire coming from your ignition cylinder. I would be more suspicious of a battery connection if the rear wiper shared a connection to the battery with the rest of the faulty items but since their separate, it makes that possibility a lot less likely.
My money is still on the grounds. If you've double checked them, I'd triple check them and when I say 'check them' I don't mean visually confirming they are there, I mean unscrewing them, brushing the lug/connector with a stainless brush until it shines, brush the ground point on the chassis until it shines, then bolt the two together again. Fact, stock grounds are ****, especially the two on the front crash bar and the ground in the spare tire well. When I re-did the wiring in my car I chopped off the mazda ground connectors and wired them to a beefy ring terminals that I could really bolt down.
Lane
Yes thats how I tested the fuses, I just cleaned up the grounds, tested the voltage on the wiper motor it drops from 3.83 to 0.78
08-27-13, 09:51 AM
#6
Need more info.
When the voltage on the wiper motor drops from 3.83 to 0.78 is it when you try and turn it on?
Whats the state of your car running? Does it run? I'm asking because if you can crank up your car and have it run fine then you can rule out the battery. If you don't have the juice to turn over your starter, then that's a red flag on the battery.
Assuming you don't have a running car yet, do your dome lights dim / cut off when you try and roll down your windows?
Here's another option. Measure the voltage across your battery then try switching something on with a medium draw like your windows or your sunroof. First off, your battery voltage should be 11v or higher. When you try and roll down your windows, etc, it shouldn't drop at all. If it does have a significant drop, its your battery.
Lane
When the voltage on the wiper motor drops from 3.83 to 0.78 is it when you try and turn it on?
Whats the state of your car running? Does it run? I'm asking because if you can crank up your car and have it run fine then you can rule out the battery. If you don't have the juice to turn over your starter, then that's a red flag on the battery.
Assuming you don't have a running car yet, do your dome lights dim / cut off when you try and roll down your windows?
Here's another option. Measure the voltage across your battery then try switching something on with a medium draw like your windows or your sunroof. First off, your battery voltage should be 11v or higher. When you try and roll down your windows, etc, it shouldn't drop at all. If it does have a significant drop, its your battery.
Lane
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08-30-13, 10:13 AM
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Their is no motor in the car yet. I have cleaned up all the grounds. Charged the battery 13.43 volts. Voltage still drops when the car is turned to "on" windows/roof, wiper motor. Put the headlights back in they dont turn on. Or brights
08-30-13, 11:05 AM
#9
When the voltage on the wiper motor drops from 3.83 to 0.78 is it when you try and turn it on?
Do your dome lights dim / cut off when you try and roll down your windows?
Here's another option. Measure the voltage across your battery then try switching something on with a medium draw like your windows or your sunroof. First off, your battery voltage should be 11v or higher. When you try and roll down your windows, etc, it shouldn't drop at all. If it does have a significant drop, its your battery.
Just because your battery charged up to 13.43 doesn't mean it's ok unfortunately. You need to do some of the tests above to rule it out.
I worked on a car that had a battery that would show 12+ volts all day long when there was no load on it. As soon as any load was put on it it would drop to ~5v then pup back up to ~12v after the load was removed.
Lane
Do your dome lights dim / cut off when you try and roll down your windows?
Here's another option. Measure the voltage across your battery then try switching something on with a medium draw like your windows or your sunroof. First off, your battery voltage should be 11v or higher. When you try and roll down your windows, etc, it shouldn't drop at all. If it does have a significant drop, its your battery.
Just because your battery charged up to 13.43 doesn't mean it's ok unfortunately. You need to do some of the tests above to rule it out.
I worked on a car that had a battery that would show 12+ volts all day long when there was no load on it. As soon as any load was put on it it would drop to ~5v then pup back up to ~12v after the load was removed.
Lane
08-30-13, 11:43 AM
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Just tested it. Voltage stays the same, and yes to the wiper motor its when I try and use it. I just noticed something dont know if it has anything to do with when I push the windows down or up the abs light turns off tell I let get. Dims when I press the sunroof switch
08-30-13, 01:33 PM
#11
The only fuses all of your problems (minus the headlights) share is B1 and B2. Since a fuse isn't going to trim a voltage (or at least it won't as long as your fuse box isn't a ball of corrosion) I'm going to say I doubt its a fuse problem.
The only connection that the ABS light and the power windows share is the 12 rail provided by fuses B1 and B2 as mentioned above.
If the ABS light goes out, then it could mean your voltage from the battery is dropping because of the load on your windows which would indicate a measurement error on your end.
You did to the voltage tests without the charger connected right?
Speaking of which, what kind of battery charger are you using? If its a big one that puts out > 5A you may try hooking it to the battery and repeating your tests. If the results improve, I'd still bet on the battery.
Otherwise I'd keep moving forward with getting your car put together. I know for a fact that there is one ground for your cluster that goes out of the cabin and grounds itself on the top of your intake manifold through the emission harness.
That just one example of many that goes to show that there are a lot of grounds on the car and a lot of them aren't necessarily close to what they ground. Getting everything hooked up may solve your problem.
If not, then I'd start cleaning suspect terminals again. I keep hitting that home because I've been through every inch of my wiring on my FD and I can tell you from experience, 95% of my problems were caused by terminals that were crusted over / oxidized / dirty / corroded.
Lane
The only connection that the ABS light and the power windows share is the 12 rail provided by fuses B1 and B2 as mentioned above.
If the ABS light goes out, then it could mean your voltage from the battery is dropping because of the load on your windows which would indicate a measurement error on your end.
You did to the voltage tests without the charger connected right?
Speaking of which, what kind of battery charger are you using? If its a big one that puts out > 5A you may try hooking it to the battery and repeating your tests. If the results improve, I'd still bet on the battery.
Otherwise I'd keep moving forward with getting your car put together. I know for a fact that there is one ground for your cluster that goes out of the cabin and grounds itself on the top of your intake manifold through the emission harness.
That just one example of many that goes to show that there are a lot of grounds on the car and a lot of them aren't necessarily close to what they ground. Getting everything hooked up may solve your problem.
If not, then I'd start cleaning suspect terminals again. I keep hitting that home because I've been through every inch of my wiring on my FD and I can tell you from experience, 95% of my problems were caused by terminals that were crusted over / oxidized / dirty / corroded.
Lane
