I came across this product from www.staffsauto.com

It's a metal oil pan gasket, and it supposedly stops oil leaks once and for all. I've heard a few people have already tried it and so far no more oil leaks for them, so I'm thinking about it too.

Just thought I'd share the info.

 

How much was it?

 

cool. i have a leaky oil pan right now. maybe i will use this metal gasket as the replacement.

 

I'm interested in more information regarding the red RX-7

http://www.staffsauto.com/racing2.htm (It is a 3 rotor).

 

hey, do you have to remove the engine to replace the oil pan gasket? it looks to be that way. also, does the oil pan baffle that racing beat made for the 2nd gens fit the 3rd gens? i have one laying around. i would like to put it on, but i dont know if i even fits.

paul

 

I think you have to lower the subframe to get at it.
Jim

 

mmmmmmmmmmm, that sounds fun.

paul

 

They have a really nice site, descent, simplified, mod order for newbies and whatnot. I would also like to know more about that read FC or see it in person.

 

I don't know how much the oil pan gasket is, but I've emailed them to find out. I'll let you guys know.

I've seen that red 3 rotor in person last year at Molson Indy, as I was part of the pit crew. The car was just plainly the fastest one out there, including a field of turboed porsches, tubbed out 300ZXs, mustangs, you name it.

I took some pics that I'll post up later.

 

For the last two years I have helped rebuild about 6 engines here in Houston, besides my own. We do not even use an oil pan gasket anymore and have have had great results that way. We use the best Permatex silicone oil resistance sealant alone between the block and pan. Each pan bolt is also fitted with a thin but wider SS flatwasher to more evenly spread out the tightening torque. All bolt and hole threads are precleaned with a tap or die, and the mating surfaces cleaned with acetone or lacquer cleaner first. After installation, the sealant is allowed to cure 24hours before any oil is poured into the engine.

 

Now THATS how to seal that sucker! With all of the newer specialized compounds out there gaskets generally suck the big wazoo.

The Right Stuff sealant is awesome also, and the biggest benefit is you can bolt up and return to service right away, but it is pretty expensive, and you cannot use it with parts exposed to gasoline. Permatex and 3M products rule.

 

I found out that it's not a gasket, but rather an oil pan reinforcement used to spread the torque load on the oil pan. It was misworded on their website, and since been corrected.

They use it with high quality sealant, and so far had 100% success with all their installs.

The last time I did my oil pan, I made sure it was installed with high quality sealant, without using the gasket, and it was perfect for awhile, but it's leaking again.

 

The Owner of that website use the photos I posted here. I posted those drifting FD pics on Lounge.

 

Welcome back Chuck.

How ya feeling?

 

What's the steps to replace the oil gaskets? Can the lower subframe be removed without screwing up the alinement?

 

Roterbrain ,call Gar he makes a steel reinforce part . there is one on his silver. He got the idea from the Harley Davidson pan head reinforce D ring on the valve cover . He made it 5 years ago . Nothing new , works good .

 

I can vouch for those rings stopping oil leaks. I tried about everything to keep mine from leaking (nearly 2 years worth )and nothing worked. I had my brother work up a ring like the ones shown and i have been leak free for a few months now.

 

The 3rd gen oil pan already has baffles built into it as I recall from taking mine off 2 years ago.

Brian

 

So, what's the deal? If it's just a reinforcment ring, does go on the outside of the pan then? Just how does it work?
On a side note, anyone here use the Morosso FD pan yet? Any benefits beside the thicker flange material?

Frank

 

I actually did mine without dropping the sub-frame. It is a majar PITA but can be done. For me I had to raise the engine as far as possible, drop the pan on the subframe, unbolt the oil pickup, this is the key part, rotate the pan 180 degrees and jimmy it out thru the hole in the subframe. To re-assemble, slip pan back in, 180 degrees out, rotate, slip in gasket (if required), re-attach oil pickup, and then the fun part, spreading silicone with your fingers around the mating surfaces. It can be done, you don't have to remove the engine or sub-frame and you don't have to get a new alignment.

Regards,
Frank

 

thanks for the info, apexi.

 

thanks for the info, apexi.

 

Great advice, Flyrx7!! I've also done this method, and it is much easier than having to drop a subframe or take out the motor

I'll add a few more details:

If you don't have an engine hoist, you can use a floor jack. Just position it on the flat part of the tranny, and lift! Make sure you unbolt the motor mounts first


oh, and another very important step before jacking up the engine: disconnect the upper and lower intercooler "accordian" tubes, as they WILL tear when the engine is at "full upward extension."