No brake pedal pressure and clutch
#51
If you adjusted all the slop out of the clutch master pushrod you went the wrong way. That will make it engage and disengage at the top. You need to crank the pushrod towards the clutch pedal and remove the excessive movement with the stop switch bumper behind the pedal arm. You have all new components so it will need to be adjusted correctly. I would start with two turns in. Improper bleeding will not give you a high pedal, it will do the opposite. It’s in the workshop manual.
FMS ~ H-6
~ GW
FMS ~ H-6
~ GW
#53
Thank you @gdub29e Thought I posted this already.... Guess not
So I adjusted the pedal height according to the book at 6.5" at full height. Free pay adjusted to the minimum. Now I wasn't able to adjust the minimum disengagement height at 1 9" off the floor. It's more like 4/5" off the floor. Much better in drivability but still feel that it should be better. Could it be that it's not an oem clutch?
So I adjusted the pedal height according to the book at 6.5" at full height. Free pay adjusted to the minimum. Now I wasn't able to adjust the minimum disengagement height at 1 9" off the floor. It's more like 4/5" off the floor. Much better in drivability but still feel that it should be better. Could it be that it's not an oem clutch?
Last edited by coolrotariesR1; 01-07-23 at 12:47 PM.
#54
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
That diagram is for the factory clutch. It gets you in the ballpark. I do not think the stack height will be any different greater for an aftermarket single plate. But an aftermarket one will need some tweaking. You need to keep turning the push rod in towards the clutch pedal arm. This will lower the engagement and disengagement point. Then adjust the backside stop down. Having said all that, I would adjust it down to your liking and put a few hundred miles on that clutch so it can break in. Then re-adjust to your liking after it’s bed in. Just don’t go to low with the adjustment or you will have problems getting it in gear, especially when hot.
~ GW
~ GW
The following 2 users liked this post by gdub29e:
coolrotariesR1 (01-07-23),
DaveW (01-07-23)
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gdub29e (01-07-23)
#56
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Also in the pictures there is a gold jam nut on the clutch rod, it's up against the 10mm part of the rod that you adjust the rod in/out with.
That nut needs to be up against the pedal assembly and tight. If it's on the other side where it is now there's nothing to prevent the clutch rod from screwing in and out.
Had a friend at Deal's Gap who thought he was going to have to tow the car home, turned out that got loose and the clutch adjustment was way off. Set it up properly and done.
Dale
That nut needs to be up against the pedal assembly and tight. If it's on the other side where it is now there's nothing to prevent the clutch rod from screwing in and out.
Had a friend at Deal's Gap who thought he was going to have to tow the car home, turned out that got loose and the clutch adjustment was way off. Set it up properly and done.
Dale
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