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I once had the secondary throttle butterfly return-stop screw adjusted too low and the butterfly plates were binding on the throttle body causing issues. 1/6 of a turn out on the stop screw cured that. I'm guessing you are having a similar issue with your primary throttle butterflies, so make sure the plate area is clean, and then try adjusting the butterfly closed-stop adjustment screw..
J ust an update on this issue.
The brakes were bled successfully. I put new bleeder screws and seemed to solve my issue with air getting back into the system when doing the bleeding procedure.
Now as for the clutch engagement, I installed a SS line on the clutch master and rebuilt the master with new parts from Mazda. I played with the pedal adjustment but still have high engagement! So frustrating.....
To top that the shop wrote on the ticket that they installed an Excdy clutch when in fact I notice through the inspection plate that it's a different clutch. Now I'm told it's a Clutch Master 6 Puck. (new supposedly)
I even called the mfg and they even tell me that the engagement should be towards the floor.
I'm wondering if I should drop the tranny and inspect the clutch/install.
Typically the only thing that will give a high engagement point is a thin clutch disc. I think you will be well served dropping the trans. It's not the most fun but it's not a bad job, this is not a hard job to do a clutch job on.
Typically the only thing that will give a high engagement point is a thin clutch disc. I think you will be well served dropping the trans. It's not the most fun but it's not a bad job, this is not a hard job to do a clutch job on.
That makes the job about a MILLION times easier if you are doing it on jack stands.
Dale
Thanks Dale! That would be better than how I used to do it... Nothing like bringing down a transmission onto your chest... I'm no spring chicken anymore 😁
We will see. I'm waiting on a response from the shop that did the work. It left their shop this way. I think they should be liable for the repair...
Hey guys I'd thought I would reach again on this thread with an update with the clutch.
So much time has past because of delays with certain repairs to the car that I'm doing.
I'm now at the point of addressing the clutch issue. I finally was able to remove the transmission to inspect the clutch.
The frustration I have is beyond explainable!
I noticed metal shreds on the input shaft. With further inspection I see that the rear bearing behind the flywheel nut is destroyed! Keep in mind that this is a "NEW MOTOR"
I posted my words of frustration o. Another thread about that.
Moving on, when I removed the clutch I believe I found the problem with the clutch. Now I was told this was a new clutch. Can anyone provide an honest opinion on whether or not from the looks of the pictures that this is a new clutch and it would be the cause of the high engagement.
Keep in mind that the motor ONLY has 10 of driven mileage.
Can someone advise on how to change that bearing or if there is a specific name for it. That way I can figure out how to change it.
Thanks!
Last edited by coolrotariesR1; 10-06-22 at 05:14 PM.
That’s the pilot bearing. Hopefully it didn’t damage the E-shaft when it came apart.
It’s not particularly hard to change. But you need a properly sized (small) blind-bearing puller to get it out without further damage and, preferably, the tool to properly install the new one… along with its dust seal.
I’d also closely check the snout of the input shaft for galling. Clean it up if necessary the best you can with some Emory cloth.
I have the SST and never used one but this should work… http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=27YCUMzKcfE
Search for threads, changing that bearing has been discussed a lot over the years.
Hard to be certain but your clutch kit looks OK. Speculating here, but when the pilot bearing let go it let the input shaft flex under load, which then allowed the clutch disc to make uneven contact with the flywheel. Some hot spots were left on both. With so few miles I think you’ll be fine to just take a scuff pad to all surfaces.
That movement also allowed the pressure plate to contact the inside of the bellhousing.
That’s the pilot bearing. Hopefully it didn’t damage the E-shaft when it came apart.
It’s not particularly hard to change. But you need a properly sized (small) blind-bearing puller to get it out without further damage and, preferably, the tool to properly install the new one… along with its dust seal.
I’d also closely check the snout of the input shaft for galling. Clean it up if necessary the best you can with some Emory cloth.
I have the SST and never used one but this should work… http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=27YCUMzKcfE
Search for threads, changing that bearing has been discussed a lot over the years.
Hard to be certain but your clutch kit looks OK. Speculating here, but when the pilot bearing let go it let the input shaft flex under load, which then allowed the clutch disc to make uneven contact with the flywheel. Some hot spots were left on both. That movement also allowed the pressure plate to contact the inside of the bellhousing.
Thank you sir! Do you think that the condition that you see would be the cause of high engagement?
Hard to say. But a high engagement is the least of your worries right now. Take care of that bearing issue. And given the evidence suggesting flexing, maybe even replace the input shaft seal. With so few miles I think I’d just take a sanding pad to the PP and flywheel…and lightly to the cutch disc. Reinstall and then see what you get for pedal travel.
The pilot bearing either wasn't greased up or it got damaged when the transmission was mated. Hard to say. Replace with a new pilot bearing and seal, grease it up with wheel bearing grease, and you are good there.
What kind of clutch is that?
Flywheel/pressure plate look fine. They ALWAYS have dark marks, that isn't anything to get excited about.
Just to back track, where exactly was the clutch disengaging when you pushed the pedal down? Like down near the firewall or all the way up at the top of the pedal travel?
The pilot bearing either wasn't greased up or it got damaged when the transmission was mated. Hard to say. Replace with a new pilot bearing and seal, grease it up with wheel bearing grease, and you are good there.
What kind of clutch is that?
Flywheel/pressure plate look fine. They ALWAYS have dark marks, that isn't anything to get excited about.
Just to back track, where exactly was the clutch disengaging when you pushed the pedal down? Like down near the firewall or all the way up at the top of the pedal travel?
Dale
Dale that's a clutch master. The pedal engages all the way at the top of the travel.
Those aren’t the run-of-the-mill hot spots and there looks to be chatter marks on the PP. And suspect some of the disc pucks are likely glazed. A quick sanding pad scuffing using something with a hard flat surface for the pucks would take 10 minutes and probably make a big difference on wear and grip once everything is back together.
OK guys I need some brainstorming on this issue. The short of it is that I resurfaced the flywheel reinstalled the clutch and transmission and I still have a high engaging clutch. I removed the transmission again and sent out the clutch to clutch Masters for them to evaluate. They ended up doing me a solid and sending out a brand new clutch and plate.
After putting everything back together my clutch engagement situation has not changed.
I played around with the pedal adjustment and still grabbing high. I'm lost here.
Can you get a picture of the rod going from the clutch pedal into the back of the clutch master? Like up under the dash?
Dale
Similar to my thoughts - back to basics. The rod may have been replaced by something that is longer than OE in an attempt to correct a low-pedal issue.
On a stock exedy replacement, I had some pretty similar issues bleeding the clutch. I had originally flushed the brake and clutch lines of all fluid since I was moving to castrol srf, but even after a long bleed with a Motive power bleeder, clutch engaged very low.
I must have flushed a full quart of fluid through the clutch a second time but while the pedal got a little better it was still low. I had a track day so couldn't find anymore time to flush it but over the the course of 3x20 min sessions, the clutch feel got significantly better.
I'm not sure if that's an answer but perhaps working the clutch with the system closed in addition to bleeding would help?
Here are images of the rod.
question
:
Does the clutch master cylinder or the master slave cylinder play a roll in the engagement Point or is it the pressure plate only.
From what I know it's original to the car. I did adjust the pedal by making it really loose and taking all of the slack away. Both adjustments result in the same outcome. High engagement....
From what I know it's original to the car. I did adjust the pedal by making it really loose and taking all of the slack away. Both adjustments result in the same outcome. High engagement....
If you adjusted all the slop out of the clutch master pushrod you went the wrong way. That will make it engage and disengage at the top. You need to crank the pushrod towards the clutch pedal and remove the excessive movement with the stop switch bumper behind the pedal arm. You have all new components so it will need to be adjusted correctly. I would start with two turns in. Improper bleeding will not give you a high pedal, it will do the opposite. It’s in the workshop manual.
06-02-22, 10:35 AM
