Here it goes again, boost problems....

mods: m2 ecu, intake, dp, efini y-pipe, hf cat, catback, seq twins, reman motor, ...otherwise it's pretty much stock.

I've had a mazda reman motor installed along with efini y-pipe, viton check valves, used TCA. Here is the problems I have now.

- pretty much no boost under wot through out the rpm for primary or secondary. (maybe 1 or 2 psi at most)

- "rguRrrw" type of sound comming out of the car after releasing the gas pedal. (No, not the blow off. The sound comes out right before the bov and it sounds more vicious.) It sounds like it's coming out of under the car but I maybe wrong.

- No air pressure in pressure chamber after driving. (I pulled out one of the hose.)

I'm thinking it has a major boost leak. But I still don't understand what's causing the car to make that weird noise upon releasing the gas pedal...and howcome there is no sound of leak coming out upon wot if it's a boost leak.


Thanks in advance!!!

- Tadashi

 

It depends on what kind of leak you have on whether you'll hear it. I'll bet you have a vacuum line in the wrong place or not connected, and that's usually silent. It's when a coupler or rubber elbow has a rip that it's usually loud.

If you have no pressure after boost, it's because you only have 1-2psi feeding it. Once you get primary boost then worry if you don't see pressure.

See if you can borrow a vacuum pump and see if the vacuum tank lines hold vacuum indefinitely. Also try to pump pressure into it - if the check valves are working it won't hold pressure.

If that's ok, double-check the lines connecting the CRV, CR Solenoid, Air Bypass Valve, Charge Control Actuator and solenoid, and Turbo Control Actuator and solenoids. These are what need to be working to make the primary run.

Dave

 

Boosting on a new engine already?

 

Thanks dave, I'm going to double check the vacuum hoses.


audiobot7: I was trying to test if I get some boost (5psi or so) before I took the car home.

 

Who did the install?

 

I've found two vacuum hoses which are misconnected!
As indicated in the diagram below, (the line with yellow and red dots) is misconnected.
Could anyone tell me where is this piece is located/ What do i have to remove to get to this? Actuall pictures would be a great help! I hope this is it.
Thanks!!

 

you should be able to trace all the vac lines by just removing uim and stuff that goes to the y pipe. just go thru them 1 by 1, I had to do this a fe weeks ago and traced every line. you may need a small inspection mirror and a mini flashlight

 

Someone else did the install -- take it back and let them put THEIR time into fixing the problem. There is no way you should have to be out there troubleshooting when this is obviously a mistake by the installer!

 

he's a buddy of mine and he practically did the installation of engine and other parts for free. (You'd be shocked if I told you the price.)
You can pretty much say, "you get what you paid for."
That is why I chose to take it home and work on it myself with all your (rx7 gurus!)help.

I just figured out that the pressure chamber hose line and the (blue to purple) vaccum line (not the line that I dotted with yellow and red) which are coming from the UIM was crossed. I'm going to see if this is the only problem now.

 

RE SUzuki,

Also double check your one way valves. Make sure they are in correct direction. I've seen few cars in the past that had them wrong and caused boost issue.

Good luck!

 

Dave, you are exactly right!
The vacuum lines were in worng place. Thanks alot for pointing me to the right direction! Now I can get the primary to boost. Other vacuum lines seemed like they were in right places. I just have to break-in the motor and hope that there's no problem with the secondary. I'm pretty sure it'd be ok.

- Tadashi

inspection mirror did helped me locate the incorrect vaccum hose lines.
good thing I didn't have to take out my UIM.

thanks!!

- Tadashi

Yeah, that was the first thing that came in my mind too.

Thanks for your "good luck" !

- Tadashi

 

Good stuff. I actually helped my buddy (NeedFD) w/ his first 13b install a few months ago. Pulled everything out within a few hours, bought a fresh rebuilt engine (1,100.00 locally), and installed it. Those oil cooler line clips took us a few tries, but we got it in. Then he sold his engine core for about 600.00 so the new engine only cost him a few hundred. Took us about a week to put everything back (a few hours a day plus waiting for parts) and everything ran perfectly (well except for that egr code). He hasnt had a problem since.