Kento

After reading through various threads on radiator upgrades, I decided to go with the PWR radiator. There were some casual mentions of clearancing needed for the radiator hose, but that was about it; so I figured this install was going to be a cinch. Yeah right.

First, due to the radiator's larger end tank dimensions (fine, since it gets rid of the POS stock plastic items), the radiator fan framework wouldn't fit properly. All the bolt holes were in the right spots-- they were just about 10mm too far away. This required some trimming with a Dremel around the outer perimeter of the fan framework (the middle separator is fine, since the core fins are recessed) in order for it to fit properly. Major PITA.

After that incident, I was getting aprehensive about the clearance to my Greddy SMIC (yeah, would've bought an M2/ASP or the like, but none were available, and I didn't feel like getting rid of the stock airbox and/or waiting forever for delivery), since it rested directly on the frame crossmember. My fears were well-founded; no matter how much I sweated and cursed, I couldn't get the radiator up high enough to line up the lower rubber grommets with the mounting holes in the sway bar mounts. I finally was able to get it close enough FTGIGOW* by loosening the hose connections on the IC. The rubber grommets on the bottom of the radiator are still not lining up with the holes in the sway bar mounts, however. Just the lips on the sway bar mounts are supporting it.

I also found one of the upper radiator mounts (a rubber damper with bolts on both ends) had deteriorated enough to render it useless. Might be a good idea to have a rubber washer of the same thickness (about 13mm), plus a long 6mm bolt just in case.

Trying to do some creative artwork with the Dremel isn't possible, since the clearance problems are related to the IC resting directly on the driver's side fan motor. At this point, I'm still able to close the hood without resorting to more clearancing for the top of the IC via dimpling the hood underside, but it's damn close.

Also, it should be noted that the new radiators (regardless of brand) don't have the foam on each side that closes off the gaps between the radiator and the frame. These must be plugged off in order for the radiator to work properly; otherwise much of the airflow is just going to leak through those gaps.

Sorry for the long thread. Had to vent. Hopefully others contemplating the same upgrade won't/didn't encounter the same problems.

(*for the girls I got out with)

911GT2

Well thats all good to know, since an upgraded radiator is one of my next two planned mods. Has anyone else had this much trouble?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I may get flamed for this......but I have a gap of about 1/2 inch on one side of my Fluidyne radiator. My temps seem to stay around 180 when I am on the road, so the gap isn't effecting my coolant temps. Unless someone gives me a good reason to plug the gap, I'm leaving it.

OK flame away.......

Kento

If it works for your particular application, run with it. However, in hotter climates with prolonged hard throttle usage (auto-x or track day events), it will surely pay dividends. If you ever get the chance, just out of curiosity you should try plugging it and see what where your coolant temps end up (not that it may result in a drastic change).

I forgot to mention that I also had to trim about 10mm off the edge of the upper AC condensor (or PS tube, can't remember which) mount on the passenger side in order to clear the radiator.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Mine is a fluidyne but I have the Greddy SMIC, so if you need to look at how mine is (or was) mounted you can swing by on the weekend.

FormerPorscheGuy

Threads like this make me glad that I got my Koyo. It fit great. Its not a direct drop in, but it fit great and was easy to install.

Also, I don't think that the two pieces of rotting brittly foam on each side of the stock radiator matters.

reza

Seems easy when I put mine in. No trimming needed. It just that the 90degree flange need to be flip and swapped, to make the radiator lower. Its common for all thicker than stock radiator. I am happy with my PWR.

Reza

GP1200R

weird....my PWR dropped right in, although I did have a slight clearance issue with the intake duct for the M2 med intercooler

btw Kent.....AWESOME write up on synthetic oils in Sport Rider....you guys rock

what oil are you running in your bike(s) right now?

Kento

If the two pieces of foam are "rotting brittly", then I don't think they'd matter either. Sealing up the gaps is what matters IMO.

Knew about that, and mounted them reversed from the beginning. Still had problems.

Thanx. Wait for the next issue that will be on the newstands in August, that has the lab and dyno tests of the oils. Pretty surprising results. I run Motul 300V right now in my FD and bike, since I like the 100% ester-based formula. But most of the good-quality full synthetics are fine.

I'm sure I'll be happy with the PWR once everything is bolted up. It's just that there were some speedbumps along the way, so I thought I should let everyone know about some possible pitfalls with the installation.

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

The expensive mazdacomp radiator I bought before all the cheaper ones starting coming out has metal wings on the side to seal the area in for the radiator. Of course I had to use the dremel and cutoff the side that my M2 intake get's its fresh air. I have had no heat related issues with that setup in the 2 years I've had it.
Water temps in the lower 80's even in the GA heat the past 2 summers.
Tim

spoolin93r1

i'm using a PWR with my apex fmic and it dropped in, no probs, everything bolted up like factory

bureau_c

I had no problems either. I'm using a Pettit intake and stock (yuck!) IC. I wonder about all the differing reports of these radiators. This is not unique to the PWR by the way. I've heard horror stories about every aftermarket radiator that exists...are individual cars really that different???

jds

swbrad

According to the legends that I had heard the PWR install should have been a simple bolt in. This was not exactly the case, but all things considered not a hard job either. My car has been slapped around a bit so the clearances may have been not quite stock. These are my notes on the install:

1. Lowered the right front AC bracket 3/8".

2. Raised the front left and right radiator brackets 1/2".

3. Slotted the front left and right radiator bracket mounting holes 5/8".

4. Filed the left rear radiator shroud bracket on the corner to clear the oil line.

5. Filed the shroud at the corners to allow the radiator shroud and the radiator to mount flat at the bolts.

6. Bent the rear radiator mounting brackets so they wouldn't touch the radiator.

7. Filed the radiator right rear shroud mount to clear the AC rubber piping.

Mods 1, 2 and 3 helped get the radiator high enough to clear the AC condenser and line up the rubber mounts.

The only concern with this whole installation is that the upper radiator hose that is under my stock air box does touch the airbox pretty solidly. I have an extra layer of rubber cushion there, but I need to check this once in a while to see if there is any damage to the hose occuring.

The bottom line was that this didn't solve my heating problems. On a 95 degree day at 7000 feet going up a 2% grade at 70 mph with the AC on, my temps continue to approach 228 degrees F. Going down the 2% grade, the temps fall off to 200 to 210 degrees F. I have sealed most of the usual air leakage on the sides of the radiator with aluminum shields and installed a piece of aluminum above the radiator in the front to keep the air from leaking up away from the radiator.

I have installed a Mazda stock thermostat and am running Totota Red ethelyne glycol in a 50/50 mix. This antifreeze has a slight sealant in it to keep drips at the hose clamps sealed. My next step is to install redline water wetter and see if that helps reduce the temperatures.

There is a theory that the coolant isn't circulating out of the engine fast enough. Another test would be to put a couple of 1/4" holes in the thermostat (my old one) and see if this reduced obstruction would help.

The PWR radiator does look nice when I am under there for the usual reasons!