nickle in rotor housing
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Let's set a couple things straight.
1) 2gen housings are not inferior to FD housings. IN fact, often I have nicer FC housings on my shelf than FD ones. The FD housings see so much heat and abuse, that they often crack, chrome flake and chatter in under 75k miles, where as FC housings with 50-100k mile housings might be far cleaner. The FD housings did have a "superior" surface coating on them, but as you can see, that didn't exactly work out the way mazda intended, so I don't see that as anything to worry about.
2) the FC turbo housings are the only ones with the coolant passages. The FC nonturbo housings can also be used in an FD, and do not have the passage to worry about.
3) The FC rotorhousings are cheaper than the FD rotorhousings brand new.
4) Done properly, you can seal the coolant passage in the FC housings and never have an issue. I personally use the jb stick weld putty and pack the hole full from both sides, leaving a lip on each side to be sure it never moves. I havent done this a lot, but I have not had any issues with it when doing it this way. You can also tap and plug the hole or use a freeze plug.
1) 2gen housings are not inferior to FD housings. IN fact, often I have nicer FC housings on my shelf than FD ones. The FD housings see so much heat and abuse, that they often crack, chrome flake and chatter in under 75k miles, where as FC housings with 50-100k mile housings might be far cleaner. The FD housings did have a "superior" surface coating on them, but as you can see, that didn't exactly work out the way mazda intended, so I don't see that as anything to worry about.
2) the FC turbo housings are the only ones with the coolant passages. The FC nonturbo housings can also be used in an FD, and do not have the passage to worry about.
3) The FC rotorhousings are cheaper than the FD rotorhousings brand new.
4) Done properly, you can seal the coolant passage in the FC housings and never have an issue. I personally use the jb stick weld putty and pack the hole full from both sides, leaving a lip on each side to be sure it never moves. I havent done this a lot, but I have not had any issues with it when doing it this way. You can also tap and plug the hole or use a freeze plug.
Huh?
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 670
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Maryland
Let's set a couple things straight.
1) 2gen housings are not inferior to FD housings. IN fact, often I have nicer FC housings on my shelf than FD ones. The FD housings see so much heat and abuse, that they often crack, chrome flake and chatter in under 75k miles, where as FC housings with 50-100k mile housings might be far cleaner. The FD housings did have a "superior" surface coating on them, but as you can see, that didn't exactly work out the way mazda intended, so I don't see that as anything to worry about.
2) the FC turbo housings are the only ones with the coolant passages. The FC nonturbo housings can also be used in an FD, and do not have the passage to worry about.
3) The FC rotorhousings are cheaper than the FD rotorhousings brand new.
4) Done properly, you can seal the coolant passage in the FC housings and never have an issue. I personally use the jb stick weld putty and pack the hole full from both sides, leaving a lip on each side to be sure it never moves. I havent done this a lot, but I have not had any issues with it when doing it this way. You can also tap and plug the hole or use a freeze plug.
1) 2gen housings are not inferior to FD housings. IN fact, often I have nicer FC housings on my shelf than FD ones. The FD housings see so much heat and abuse, that they often crack, chrome flake and chatter in under 75k miles, where as FC housings with 50-100k mile housings might be far cleaner. The FD housings did have a "superior" surface coating on them, but as you can see, that didn't exactly work out the way mazda intended, so I don't see that as anything to worry about.
2) the FC turbo housings are the only ones with the coolant passages. The FC nonturbo housings can also be used in an FD, and do not have the passage to worry about.
3) The FC rotorhousings are cheaper than the FD rotorhousings brand new.
4) Done properly, you can seal the coolant passage in the FC housings and never have an issue. I personally use the jb stick weld putty and pack the hole full from both sides, leaving a lip on each side to be sure it never moves. I havent done this a lot, but I have not had any issues with it when doing it this way. You can also tap and plug the hole or use a freeze plug.
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a couple of questions. First, do the non-turbo housings need any modifications to make them a "bolt on" part? Second, if one did not want to use FD housings, would there be any reason to use the FC turbo housings (with proper coolant passage mods) over the non-turbo FC housings?
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
This may help:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...g_differs.html
To use FC NA housings in an FD, you need to swap the exhaust port SLEEVE with that from an 87-95 turbo engine.
To use the FC T2 housings in an FD, you need to plug the coolant port.
The 89-91 version housings are identical in casting to the FD housings as far as the knock sensor location and the leading plughole location.
The 86-88 FC housings, which are usually not in good shape anyway, are different here and thus are not usually good candidates for use in an FD engine build. If you were to have a perfect set of 86-88 FC housings you wanted to use, you could do so, as long as you use the set...not mix and match an s4 and an s5/s6 in the same engine. Also you'd have to relocate your FD's knock sensor to the front of the intermediate iron, which is where it was on the 87-88 turbo FC.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...g_differs.html
To use FC NA housings in an FD, you need to swap the exhaust port SLEEVE with that from an 87-95 turbo engine.
To use the FC T2 housings in an FD, you need to plug the coolant port.
The 89-91 version housings are identical in casting to the FD housings as far as the knock sensor location and the leading plughole location.
The 86-88 FC housings, which are usually not in good shape anyway, are different here and thus are not usually good candidates for use in an FD engine build. If you were to have a perfect set of 86-88 FC housings you wanted to use, you could do so, as long as you use the set...not mix and match an s4 and an s5/s6 in the same engine. Also you'd have to relocate your FD's knock sensor to the front of the intermediate iron, which is where it was on the 87-88 turbo FC.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,887
Likes: 1
From: Carmel, NY
Nof, how u been??? long time again!
So what was the problem with you engine after all????
I'm pretty sure a freeze plug is worth a little more than a nicke but common!!!!
These are the type of things we as a community should be completely free of!!!!!
gimme a call, I'd like to take a look at your engine!
So what was the problem with you engine after all????
I'm pretty sure a freeze plug is worth a little more than a nicke but common!!!!
These are the type of things we as a community should be completely free of!!!!!
gimme a call, I'd like to take a look at your engine!
sorry for your lose. but i wouldnt come down so hard on the shop. first of all it could be one lazy or careless mechanic. i have seen things like these done before, and givin the circumstances and if its done correctly, it most of the time comes out ok. i would call the shop and tell them wat you found and see if they will pay for you to get the work re-done(the right way). if not...someone mentioned legal action, which will scare the **** outa them.
the best of luck with the fix
adam
the best of luck with the fix
adam
Everyone seems focused on the nickel as if that alone makes ghetto. What's so much different from that and what a responsible shop does...as Mr. Landers has explained?
I think the BIG issue is whether or not they made the customer aware of it and the fact that apparently it failed.....not so much that a nickel was used.
I think the BIG issue is whether or not they made the customer aware of it and the fact that apparently it failed.....not so much that a nickel was used.
rotary resurrection i didn't say there is a problem with the 2nd gen housings i choose to use them when i was told they are the same besides the coolant passage and they are around $130 cheaper per housing. my only compliant is not filling the passage correctly. as far as contacting the shop this motor was built nov. 2005 so i doubt they would do anything seeing how long its been . later today i'll post pics of the coolant leak and some better pics of the housing
Pineapple Racing recently started selling a freeze out plug that fits that passage perfectly. I've used it and it works well. You have to call to order it.
Anthony
Anthony
Let's set a couple things straight.
1) 2gen housings are not inferior to FD housings. IN fact, often I have nicer FC housings on my shelf than FD ones. The FD housings see so much heat and abuse, that they often crack, chrome flake and chatter in under 75k miles, where as FC housings with 50-100k mile housings might be far cleaner. The FD housings did have a "superior" surface coating on them, but as you can see, that didn't exactly work out the way mazda intended, so I don't see that as anything to worry about.
2) the FC turbo housings are the only ones with the coolant passages. The FC nonturbo housings can also be used in an FD, and do not have the passage to worry about.
3) The FC rotorhousings are cheaper than the FD rotorhousings brand new.
4) Done properly, you can seal the coolant passage in the FC housings and never have an issue. I personally use the jb stick weld putty and pack the hole full from both sides, leaving a lip on each side to be sure it never moves. I havent done this a lot, but I have not had any issues with it when doing it this way. You can also tap and plug the hole or use a freeze plug.
1) 2gen housings are not inferior to FD housings. IN fact, often I have nicer FC housings on my shelf than FD ones. The FD housings see so much heat and abuse, that they often crack, chrome flake and chatter in under 75k miles, where as FC housings with 50-100k mile housings might be far cleaner. The FD housings did have a "superior" surface coating on them, but as you can see, that didn't exactly work out the way mazda intended, so I don't see that as anything to worry about.
2) the FC turbo housings are the only ones with the coolant passages. The FC nonturbo housings can also be used in an FD, and do not have the passage to worry about.
3) The FC rotorhousings are cheaper than the FD rotorhousings brand new.
4) Done properly, you can seal the coolant passage in the FC housings and never have an issue. I personally use the jb stick weld putty and pack the hole full from both sides, leaving a lip on each side to be sure it never moves. I havent done this a lot, but I have not had any issues with it when doing it this way. You can also tap and plug the hole or use a freeze plug.
i took some better pics today and i was wrong it was a quarter in each housing so i have 50 cents instead of 10. which is a better way to plug the hole, freeze plug + sealant or tap + plug the hole. thanks
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Oahu
That sucks, you should file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and let people in the forum know. Because you're cheating us if one goes there and gets burned again.
If this happened in Hawaii, you can bet something will be done to "rectify" this situation.
If this happened in Hawaii, you can bet something will be done to "rectify" this situation.
I don't recall the OP posting up how long ago the rebuild was, but unless it was within some warranty period, I'm not seeing a compelling reason for the shop to share rebuild costs.
The OP knew it was a 2nd gen. housing with water ports that would need to be plugged. Apparently it's been driven for some time with the coolant leak, whose source apparently wasn't a big deal. Also, apparently until recently, a proper size frost plug wasn't available and it was common practice to epoxy the hole shut. I doubt it was the quarter that failed. Seems everyone is more upset about the coin being used, but it's likely the epoxy that's leaking......yet that's an accepted way plug the hole. The shop should be responsible for fixing the leak if the housing is still worth keeping for the next rebuild. Nothing more.
The OP knew it was a 2nd gen. housing with water ports that would need to be plugged. Apparently it's been driven for some time with the coolant leak, whose source apparently wasn't a big deal. Also, apparently until recently, a proper size frost plug wasn't available and it was common practice to epoxy the hole shut. I doubt it was the quarter that failed. Seems everyone is more upset about the coin being used, but it's likely the epoxy that's leaking......yet that's an accepted way plug the hole. The shop should be responsible for fixing the leak if the housing is still worth keeping for the next rebuild. Nothing more.