tmenzz

As the title says, I have a boost leak that I've begun to search for. Anytime I floor the car in the primary turbo's rpm range, I get very little boost (my boost gauge is on the way). The transition to the secondary doesn't give me any more boost either. All the way to redline, the car is a dog. If i'm in the secondary turbo's range and I let off the throttle for a second, then floor it again, I get (what seems to be) full boost. Definitely a much, MUCH harder pull than before. Then as long as I keep the car above about 4500 RPM through each gear after that, the car continues to pull the same.

Also, if i'm accelerating from 3rd and 4th gear below 4,000 RPM, I can hear a leak from behind the center of the dash.

My car is a 96 Efini JDM. Entirely stock, except for a Koyo radiator.

I found a one way check valve going from the Y-Pipe to the pressure chamber that was easy to split apart. I don't think this is the main source of the problem because I glued that part back together just for a quick test, and I still had the same low boost problem/no transition.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll also be installing the new boost gauge next weekend and I will report back on what that reads.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

the best I can give you is to read the 3rd gen FAQ thread and follow the links to the autosport site with details on how to troubleshoot.

In order to have consistent secondary boost, you need to get the primary sorted out first.

Get that boost gauge and be careful to keep boost within stock tolerances. The FD fuel system does not support much more than stock boost. It only takes one overboost to blow the motor.

tmenzz

Thanks for the reply! So far, I've been doing exactly what you recommended since I started. This whole turbo system seems very confusing and complicated. Is it normal to have these symptoms with a low boost from the primary? Since the transition to the secondary doesn't happen, but if i let off the throttle above 4,500 RPM and floor it again, I get boost back, that should narrow it down to some type of valve, correct? I've read nearly every boost problem thread and it seems like my situation is a little different than the others.

hunts187

build a boost leak tester and you will find where your leak is coming from!

tmenzz

I ordered a Mityvac. I'm realllllly hoping that this makes it easier! I have a strong feeling that it has something to do with the CCA.

tmenzz

This is the check valve that runs from the y pipe to the pressure chamber. It shouldn't just come apart like this, right?

vikter138

I can check mine today and let you know

cross

iTrader: (1)

No it should not.

tmenzz

Thanks guys. I glued it together for a temporary fix so I could test the car out and see if that was the problem, but it didn't. It seemed like it removed the audible leak at first, but maybe because of being under heat the glued gave enough for me to hear it again.

If the CCA was staying open <4,500 RPM when it's suppose to be closed, it would create these symptoms I'm having, correct? I'm hoping I'm getting a better understanding of how these twins work.

tmenzz

This job seems to be getting more and more frustrating as I go. Almost everything under the UIM is like glass and breaks when I touch it! I'm worried that when I go to put replacement hoses on that they'll be in the wrong place because so many are breaking unexpectedly while I'm trying to inspect/test everything.

I was only able to test one chamber of the CCA and when I applied vacuum it pulled the rod in smoothly so I feel like I can rule that out. The BOV tested fine as well.

I wanted to test the actuators on the bottom of the turbos but it seemed too out of reach from the top and I didn't have jack stands to be able to get underneath the car.

I'm hoping to get the rats nest out next weekend (kinda scarred about that). I'm definitely worried that I'm going to cause more problems than fix.

Any new input would be great. thanks!

S7 BATMAN

Hi Temenzz,

Your waisting your time super glueing the one way valve back together, you need to replace it as chance's are its no longer even doing its job. If every thing is brittle and breaking then there is a very high chance you have some leaks somewhere. Just the slightest crack in a hose or fitting will create the strangest turbo problems. I know as i am going through the same thing, although im starting to see the light with my car now boosting properly most of the time.
I recommend you change all your hard hoses first with new vacuum line or with the silicone stuff, remember to use zip ties or clamps on hoses where possible, and test your solinoids for an open circuit ( if so then they've failed. Best to test when car is hot ).
New check valves are still available new. They are not pricey but the solenoids are.

Goodluck.
Cheers, Jeremy

tmenzz

I have ordered a new Turbo Control solenoid and check valve. I broke the solenoid removing a hose. Now I have to order a new WG/Precontrol solenoid and 1 inch hose connected to the BOV as well since that broke too.

I hate to say it, but I think you're right, BATMAN (I thought that would be fun to say). With everything being so brittle there could be leaks anywhere/everywhere. I am having problems getting the pieces of broken hose off of where its connected too since its so baked on. I'm thinking maybe a lighter torch and flat head screwdriver might do the trick.

I wanted to report back on here with a boost pattern, but I haven't even bothered to install my boost gauge since so much has broken since I started. Being where I'm at, parts are not so easy to get and are extremely expensive. It seems the dealer here is my only option.

riwanika

iTrader: (1)

I'm not advertising but a website i use for oem parts and hoses has been parts.com they have all dealership parts at a lower cost. Check them out and if you want new one way valves mazdatrix is a good place to look

good luck with the boost problems! I'm just gonna go non-sequential after my smog

S7 BATMAN

Batman to Robin......Just a quick reply / tip.....try using a craft knife with a new blade on it and cut the hard hoses off the solenoids. Cut along and not downwards tho. I found it easier

tmenzz

UPDATE:

So, I've replaced a lot of brittle hoses as well as the solenoids I broke and the one way check valve. I put everything back together to see if I fixed the problem and now it won't start... sigh.

It cranks slowly, but will not start. I pulled the EGI fuse and cranked it for 10 seconds, replaced it, then tried again, and this time it seemed to almost start the car but the engine didn't sound like usual. It was more of a low/deep sound. The car never did actually start. What could I have done to prevent the car from turning over?

Dinnertime

Its hard to tell, but triple check all your hoses and electical connections.

tmenzz

Could the engine just be flooded? What exactly are the symptoms of this?

If I can't get it started running through these deflooding procedures, I'll move on to taking everything back apart and rechecking all of my work. I hardly ever have free time due to my job (and I just want it running so I can take it to Nurburgring!).

Personally, I don't see how anything I could have connected/reinstalled during this would keep my engine from starting. Or maybe that's just my lack of understanding.

Any ideas towards this problem will be EXTREMELY appreciated

riwanika

iTrader: (1)

Is your battery fully charged? I know it sounds dumb, but it's happened before...

tmenzz

Now... I'm more stumped than ever!

After enough tries, she finally started. Extremely rough, but running. So, now there's probably a vacuum leak. Checked under the UIM and found 2 unplugged hoses. Connected those and started the car. It ran a little rough, but then smoothed out after a few minutes. So, after it warmed up I took her for an easy drive. Everything seemed right until...

It DIED. Shifting into 3rd it began to bog down quickly and then shut off. When I went to try and start the car again, it wouldn't. Now I'm getting an entirely new problem:

When I turn the key, you hear the starter whine and the belts are all moving, but it won't start. From the driver seat it seems that the car's not even turning over at all. From outside listening to it try and start you can barely hear the engine trying. I've NEVER seen a car do this before so I have no idea where to begin...

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a really big vacuum leak.

tmenzz

I won't dismiss that idea, but that doesn't sound like my problem.

The best way I can explain the startup situation that makes it so different is that the starter isn't making that oscillating sound like normal. The starter makes a steady, continuous whine.

I haven't had the chance to check the spark plugs. IMO, that seems unlikely to be the problem since the car started just fine before it died.

This problem is really messing with my head

Dinnertime

Its got to be something you have done, back track everything.

tmenzz

That's what I'm gonna have to do. I also want to check the spark and fuel situation even though I didn't touch any of it.

So, does anybody think this sounds like a blown motor? I really hope not, but I don't see how driving slowly <3000RPM barely accelerating in 2nd gear could blow a seal. Seems unlikely. I just don't understand why the starter sounds the way it does. It's working if it's turning the belts, though.

tmenzz

Here's a video I found on youtube of a very simliar sounding problem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_0fH...eature=related

riwanika

iTrader: (1)

Is the vacuum line to your MAP Sensor hooked up? If so is it hooked up with a filter or a check valve? It should be a filter, this could be somethin. If somethings not plugged in too that could hurt. Like in the vid did you take out your plugs and try and crank the engine?