DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Been wanting to do this for some time, as this is a daunting task for a new FD owner. Swapped out my UIM for a JDM one this weekend, so I documented the process -

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=63&mnu=5

Let me know if there's anything I missed! I also showed how to clean your ISC, which is way easy to do with the UIM off. Fixed my hunting idle when I first got the car.

Enjoy,
Dale

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff as always.

kraked

Awesome, thanks! Time to do my vacuum hoses

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Sweet! Thanks Dale!

papsmagu

iTrader: (19)

nice write up, i just replaced my UIM with a polished one this weekend but my car is not stock. Wow i forgot how many things are connected to the UIM.

monju

That link is broken

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Try the link again - I just tried it and it works fine. If all else fails, go to http://www.clubrx.org and go from there.

Thanks for the compliments, guys!

Dale

bleung

Dale. I'm confused why you unbolt the throttle cable from the throttle body. It's been a while, but can't you unhook the throttle cable instead by pulling the throttle w/one hand and unhooking w/other?

jeff p

Great Job dale!!

tdazmansFD

iTrader: (1)

I've been needing to do this for a very LONG time but never built up the courage. Now I will! Great Job!

Thanks Dale for all your contributing to the forum.

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

Nice write-up, I'll be using it whenever I have to take my UIM off.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

That's the standard way of removing the cable. You unhook the end of the cable from the throttle body, but the body of the cable itself is attached to the upper intake manifold. It has to come off to remove the UIM from the car.

Thanks for the good words, everyone!

Dale

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

A couple of notes:

- I use a 10mm and 12mm swivel socket on a 3" long 1/4 drive extension. This allows me to reach all bolts/nuts during UIM removal.

- I use the 10mm swivel socket to unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the UIM, rather than removing the cable from the bracket. Quicker and no adjustments get changed.

- I find that a long-reach 45° bent-nose pliers works great to reach the coolant hose clamp under the TB.

- You might want to warn the reader that all of the electrical connectors on the UIM have rubber seals that can make them hard to remove. I often need to use a gently prying (like you showed with the TPS connector) to get them to pop loose.

- I hate the cruise control plastic gob that snaps into the bracket. That damn thing is all boogered up and won't unclip easily no matter what. I now have the cruise sitting on the floor and I'm probably not going to reinstall it just for that reason. This has nothing to do with your writeup, I just hate that thing.

Overall, a great write-up. I wish I had this the first time I removed the UIM.

Dave

GeaBu88

Thanks!

FDNena

iTrader: (2)

Thank you! I will be using this when I pull off my uim to polish it and re-do my hoses.

*EDIT*
BTW - what is the difference/benefits of going with the JDM?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Hey Dave -

Yeah, I still don't know what the hell Mazda was thinking with that cruise control cable. That black plastic snap-in connector is designed for a semi-permanent install, like the throttle cable going through the firewall. The FC had a VERY simple cable to remove - a metal clip popped out, then the cable popped out. Dunno where they got this idea .

Removal of the throttle cable mount is preference. I prefer just removing the cable with 2 12mm wrenches - if you leave the one closest to the throttle body in place, it will reinstall with the same adjustment. Takes me literally 5 seconds to undo it, faster than I could undo 2 10mm bolts. But, I need 2 extra tools for the job .

I use a pair of wide-nose pliers for both coolant hose clamps. No problem getting in there and sliding the clamp back. For actually breaking the lines loose, I have a set of pliers that has a "curve" on the end that's specially designed for breaking loose small hoses. But, with the new coolant lines I have and the fact I pull the manifold for something or the other every now and again, those hoses come off pretty easy.

Dale

Captain_Panic

iTrader: (15)

I know this is a bump fromway back, but the link is broken and I would love to have this information.

Captain_Panic

iTrader: (15)

Well this guide would still be ultimately helpful, but I figured it out on my own.

Dale if you can get your site working again, or PDF you guides we would thank you. I would even volunteer helping to put them into a pdf format...

moosejaw

iTrader: (6)

yes i agree
with the LIM i know you forgo the EGR and you gain some room between it and your DP.But UIM I wasnt aware there was an advantage.

kgriffin

i would also like this guide if you could find it

red_dragon

iTrader: (10)

bump. I'd be willing to host all of your guides.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

There is a video for removing the UIM:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/made-video-removing-uim-894143/

kgriffin

Thanks Mahjik

tangoshark

iTrader: (18)

Video is helpful but still would love to see the one dale made. Link still broken.

coredata

iTrader: (1)

I didn't want to bump this, but I did want to read Dale's writeup, and thanks to archive.org, I'm fairly certain this is it, for anyone similarly interested:

https://web.archive.org/web/20070313...ntent=63&mnu=5