New rebuild wont start
Working out the last few bits of my rebuild and it won't start. If I give a very short mist of starting fluid it'll run on that and then dies. I've jumped the fuel pump in the diagnostic port and can hear it turn on, so the pump isn't dead. I also have spark on all 4 plugs.
Is there anyway in FC-Edit or the PFC Commander to see if there's an issue? My next step is to drain what little fuel is in the tank and put some fresh fuel in, pull the fuel line at the firewall and see if fuel is actually getting to the injectors or if the fuel filter is the problem.
Attached are the pictures of the Commander screen and the monitor screen of FC-Edit with the key on.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ian
Is there anyway in FC-Edit or the PFC Commander to see if there's an issue? My next step is to drain what little fuel is in the tank and put some fresh fuel in, pull the fuel line at the firewall and see if fuel is actually getting to the injectors or if the fuel filter is the problem.
Attached are the pictures of the Commander screen and the monitor screen of FC-Edit with the key on.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ian
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BR, thank you. Its been a long *** day and I must have missed that the first time you said it lol. I'll go pull it off and reset the preload and see if that changes anything. I pulled it off when I was installing my block off plates and may have jacked it up.
Without a noid light, how should I go about this?
Also, after removing the tps and reinstalling it correctly, my VTA1 and VTA2 voltages are within spec now. Still not starting, I pulled all the plugs, each one was wet, but it didn't smell of fresh fuel. So I pulled the feed line at the firewall and ran my pump for a few minutes from the diagnostic port to push any old fuel out and then reinstalled everything.
Still no beuno, and I'm not sure what the deal is at this point. I have spark at all 4 plugs, the fuel lines are charged with fresh fiel. I'll swing by NAPA tomorrow and see if they have a Bosch noid light.
Any other ideas?
Also, after removing the tps and reinstalling it correctly, my VTA1 and VTA2 voltages are within spec now. Still not starting, I pulled all the plugs, each one was wet, but it didn't smell of fresh fuel. So I pulled the feed line at the firewall and ran my pump for a few minutes from the diagnostic port to push any old fuel out and then reinstalled everything.
Still no beuno, and I'm not sure what the deal is at this point. I have spark at all 4 plugs, the fuel lines are charged with fresh fiel. I'll swing by NAPA tomorrow and see if they have a Bosch noid light.
Any other ideas?
between the UIM and map sensor is just a vacuum line or a line with a filter in it, not a check valve right.
this prevented someone from starting there car here...haha
this prevented someone from starting there car here...haha
Is ur injectors wiring the right way round ?
Silly but happens lots
Ahhh sorry already been said above
Just switch the injector plugs over
Or pin them back to ecu what ever you an do easyest
Last edited by imitek; Oct 25, 2015 at 09:13 PM.
make sure your fuel lines aren't switched going to the hard lines from the firewall. easy mistake to make.
also watch the RPM monitor while cranking, if it remains zero or skips around then check to make sure both crank sensors are plugged in and not plugged into the wrong home/ref sensors.
also watch the RPM monitor while cranking, if it remains zero or skips around then check to make sure both crank sensors are plugged in and not plugged into the wrong home/ref sensors.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 25, 2015 at 09:24 PM.


Old ones were a wee bit dirty/wet

make sure your fuel lines aren't switched going to the hard lines from the firewall. easy mistake to make.
also watch the RPM monitor while cranking, if it remains zero or skips around then check to make sure both crank sensors are plugged in and not plugged into the wrong home/ref sensors.
also watch the RPM monitor while cranking, if it remains zero or skips around then check to make sure both crank sensors are plugged in and not plugged into the wrong home/ref sensors.
Tach doesn't move when turning over, but the RPMs on the PowerFC Commander are present.
Here's a video of it cranking over.

This PFC is from another vehicle, but I did the PFC reset back to the base map until I can get it in somewhere and tuned.
I'm starting to wonder if the injectors are stuck open and just flooding the hell out of it.
possible, this PFC was from an FD i take it?
next i would verify spark, since the tach is not bouncing i am taking a stab that perhaps your ignitor may be faulty or unplugged. the tach should at least be fluttering if you were getting spark, unless the tach is dead. the ignitor is a heat sinked device mounted in the engine bay corner nearest the driver.
next i would verify spark, since the tach is not bouncing i am taking a stab that perhaps your ignitor may be faulty or unplugged. the tach should at least be fluttering if you were getting spark, unless the tach is dead. the ignitor is a heat sinked device mounted in the engine bay corner nearest the driver.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 28, 2015 at 10:36 PM.
Yes it was out of a 93.
How bright should the spark be at the plug? I had my spark tester in-between the plug and wire and it lit up, but was very dim on all 4.
Could there be something going on because I have all the emissions removed? Maybe the PFC is flooding the engine because it's getting the wrong signals? I have block off plates installed for double throttle, air control valve, air control valve tube, split air pipe, exhaust gas re-circulation, accelerated warm-up, accelerated warm-up tube, and the idle speed control. Also removed the air pump.
How bright should the spark be at the plug? I had my spark tester in-between the plug and wire and it lit up, but was very dim on all 4.
Could there be something going on because I have all the emissions removed? Maybe the PFC is flooding the engine because it's getting the wrong signals? I have block off plates installed for double throttle, air control valve, air control valve tube, split air pipe, exhaust gas re-circulation, accelerated warm-up, accelerated warm-up tube, and the idle speed control. Also removed the air pump.
Last edited by idonaldson; Oct 28, 2015 at 11:09 PM.
Time for a compression test, to rule out the rebuild. Also check for leaking injectors.
Engine should start on the Apexi base map with the emissions removed, it does not control the EGR or AWS as it is. Make sure you turn the O2 feedback control off.
Stock injectors?
Engine should start on the Apexi base map with the emissions removed, it does not control the EGR or AWS as it is. Make sure you turn the O2 feedback control off.
Stock injectors?
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; Oct 29, 2015 at 06:51 AM.
compression sounds fine in the video however fuel flooded, seems to be pushing wayyyy too much fuel though so either you have injector issues or your PFC defaulted to something other than a stock FD3S. are all 4 plugs equally wet? that would tend to lead me away from it being an injector issue, but not rule it out completely.
there is no rule for spark, as it is nearly impossible to accurately measure how many kilovolts are being put out by simply looking at an arc, so if it is arcing then it should theoretically not be the ignition assuming all the wires are in the correct positions and you are seeing it working.
the bit i don't understand is you say it will run on starting fluid but then it stalls as if starving for fuel but the plugs appear to be fuel flooded. try to get a hold of a stock ECU just to rule out a faulty PFC or jacked up settings.
there is no rule for spark, as it is nearly impossible to accurately measure how many kilovolts are being put out by simply looking at an arc, so if it is arcing then it should theoretically not be the ignition assuming all the wires are in the correct positions and you are seeing it working.
the bit i don't understand is you say it will run on starting fluid but then it stalls as if starving for fuel but the plugs appear to be fuel flooded. try to get a hold of a stock ECU just to rule out a faulty PFC or jacked up settings.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 29, 2015 at 09:07 AM.
Ill check the compression tonight, fingers crossed it's fine because my wife is going to flip if I got 0 miles out of a $2000 keg... Still on stock injectors.
And I'll look for a different stock map I guess?
And I'll look for a different stock map I guess?








