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New rebuild wont start

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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 07:20 PM
  #1  
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MT New rebuild wont start

Working out the last few bits of my rebuild and it won't start. If I give a very short mist of starting fluid it'll run on that and then dies. I've jumped the fuel pump in the diagnostic port and can hear it turn on, so the pump isn't dead. I also have spark on all 4 plugs.

Is there anyway in FC-Edit or the PFC Commander to see if there's an issue? My next step is to drain what little fuel is in the tank and put some fresh fuel in, pull the fuel line at the firewall and see if fuel is actually getting to the injectors or if the fuel filter is the problem.

Attached are the pictures of the Commander screen and the monitor screen of FC-Edit with the key on.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ian
Attached Thumbnails New rebuild wont start-12095206_10208116596975801_5926680310710415353_o.jpg   New rebuild wont start-12109993_10208116593015702_3805735018209271686_o.jpg  
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 07:26 PM
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You do not have your TPS connected or you removed it and did not set the preload.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 07:27 PM
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Not a PFC owner, but I think VTA 1 and 2 are your TPS narrow and full range. They definitely shouldn't be zero.

Matt
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 07:29 PM
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Assuming you're looking at the FC-Monitor, what should the TPS V be at? It is connected but the connector has a broken clip, so hopefully it's just popped out.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:17 PM
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Quoting myself from 2011

Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
From memory, VTA1 should be between 0.1 and 0.7v, and VTA2 should be between 0.75 and 1.25v. This is with the throttle closed and the car warmed up (or deleted thermal pellet).
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Quoting myself from 2011
I have 0v on VTA1 and VTA2 with the TPS connector plugged in, and 4.98v on both VTA1 and VTA2 when it's unplugged... bad sensor or something else?
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:30 PM
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Unplugged always defaults to max voltage.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
Unplugged always defaults to max voltage.
Ok. Is there any way to know if the TPS is kaput? I'd assume so if it reads 0v no matter what, but just want to make sure before I run out and buy another.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:38 PM
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I already mentioned the TPS preload. If you removed the TPS and reinstalled it incorrectly, it will read 0v
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:49 PM
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BR, thank you. Its been a long *** day and I must have missed that the first time you said it lol. I'll go pull it off and reset the preload and see if that changes anything. I pulled it off when I was installing my block off plates and may have jacked it up.
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 05:10 PM
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make sure the injectors are firing properly
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rollcoal
make sure the injectors are firing properly
Without a noid light, how should I go about this?

Also, after removing the tps and reinstalling it correctly, my VTA1 and VTA2 voltages are within spec now. Still not starting, I pulled all the plugs, each one was wet, but it didn't smell of fresh fuel. So I pulled the feed line at the firewall and ran my pump for a few minutes from the diagnostic port to push any old fuel out and then reinstalled everything.

Still no beuno, and I'm not sure what the deal is at this point. I have spark at all 4 plugs, the fuel lines are charged with fresh fiel. I'll swing by NAPA tomorrow and see if they have a Bosch noid light.

Any other ideas?
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 09:03 PM
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between the UIM and map sensor is just a vacuum line or a line with a filter in it, not a check valve right.

this prevented someone from starting there car here...haha
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 09:03 PM
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Put in a fresh set of spark plugs, they do not have to smell of fuel to be fouled
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
Put in a fresh set of spark plugs, they do not have to smell of fuel to be fouled
Ive have had this to and a very weak spark deep inside plug causing non start issues

Is ur injectors wiring the right way round ?
Silly but happens lots
Ahhh sorry already been said above
Just switch the injector plugs over
Or pin them back to ecu what ever you an do easyest

Last edited by imitek; Oct 25, 2015 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 09:21 PM
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make sure your fuel lines aren't switched going to the hard lines from the firewall. easy mistake to make.

also watch the RPM monitor while cranking, if it remains zero or skips around then check to make sure both crank sensors are plugged in and not plugged into the wrong home/ref sensors.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 25, 2015 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lOOkatme
between the UIM and map sensor is just a vacuum line or a line with a filter in it, not a check valve right.

this prevented someone from starting there car here...haha
Inline filter is in correctly I believe.


Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
Put in a fresh set of spark plugs, they do not have to smell of fuel to be fouled
Brand new NGK BUR9EQ just installed.
New rebuild wont start-m3po29a.jpg

Old ones were a wee bit dirty/wet
New rebuild wont start-smyclru.jpg

Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
make sure your fuel lines aren't switched going to the hard lines from the firewall. easy mistake to make.

also watch the RPM monitor while cranking, if it remains zero or skips around then check to make sure both crank sensors are plugged in and not plugged into the wrong home/ref sensors.
Double checked the fuel lines are correct.
Tach doesn't move when turning over, but the RPMs on the PowerFC Commander are present.


Here's a video of it cranking over.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:12 PM
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they look sopping wet, did you smell the old plugs? has the base map been touched or is this a PFC from another vehicle?
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
they look sopping wet, did you smell the old plugs? has the base map been touched or is this a PFC from another vehicle?
They are wet, and i dried them off, put them back in, cranked it a bit and they came out wet again. I did smell them, and they just smell fouled, they don't smell like fresh fuel. But maybe the fouling is over powering the fuel smell

This PFC is from another vehicle, but I did the PFC reset back to the base map until I can get it in somewhere and tuned.

I'm starting to wonder if the injectors are stuck open and just flooding the hell out of it.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:33 PM
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possible, this PFC was from an FD i take it?

next i would verify spark, since the tach is not bouncing i am taking a stab that perhaps your ignitor may be faulty or unplugged. the tach should at least be fluttering if you were getting spark, unless the tach is dead. the ignitor is a heat sinked device mounted in the engine bay corner nearest the driver.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 28, 2015 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:38 PM
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Yes it was out of a 93.

How bright should the spark be at the plug? I had my spark tester in-between the plug and wire and it lit up, but was very dim on all 4.

Could there be something going on because I have all the emissions removed? Maybe the PFC is flooding the engine because it's getting the wrong signals? I have block off plates installed for double throttle, air control valve, air control valve tube, split air pipe, exhaust gas re-circulation, accelerated warm-up, accelerated warm-up tube, and the idle speed control. Also removed the air pump.

Last edited by idonaldson; Oct 28, 2015 at 11:09 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 04:54 AM
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Time for a compression test, to rule out the rebuild. Also check for leaking injectors.

Engine should start on the Apexi base map with the emissions removed, it does not control the EGR or AWS as it is. Make sure you turn the O2 feedback control off.

Stock injectors?

Last edited by Banzai-Racing; Oct 29, 2015 at 06:51 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 08:58 AM
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compression sounds fine in the video however fuel flooded, seems to be pushing wayyyy too much fuel though so either you have injector issues or your PFC defaulted to something other than a stock FD3S. are all 4 plugs equally wet? that would tend to lead me away from it being an injector issue, but not rule it out completely.

there is no rule for spark, as it is nearly impossible to accurately measure how many kilovolts are being put out by simply looking at an arc, so if it is arcing then it should theoretically not be the ignition assuming all the wires are in the correct positions and you are seeing it working.

the bit i don't understand is you say it will run on starting fluid but then it stalls as if starving for fuel but the plugs appear to be fuel flooded. try to get a hold of a stock ECU just to rule out a faulty PFC or jacked up settings.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 29, 2015 at 09:07 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 09:11 AM
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Ill check the compression tonight, fingers crossed it's fine because my wife is going to flip if I got 0 miles out of a $2000 keg... Still on stock injectors.

And I'll look for a different stock map I guess?
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 09:47 AM
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you pitched out the stock ECU then i take it?
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