New R1 Spoiler.
New R1 Spoiler.
I just installed a new R1 spoiler on my 94 Touring.
I can tell that I will have to be very careful that I do not get curb damage - it sits about 2 inches lower than my stock trim peice did.
Questions...
I can tell that I will have to be very careful that I do not get curb damage - it sits about 2 inches lower than my stock trim peice did.
Questions...
- Does anyone have a photo of the ducting from the R1 spoiler to the disk brakes (if there is any)?
- I can see that it will be more difficult to keep it clean and free of wax (I hate the way the white wax looks on black trim) I will have to be more careful.
How do you dress your spoilers? Do you use Armor-all?
I have the 99 front lip and it's looking pretty crappy and grey now. I have been using everything from Armor All, to tire wet type products. I've even tried using "bumper black" it's like a dye used by detailers to make black trim pieces looking new.
Nothing lasts very long.
I am considering painting it glossy black with Krylon Fusion Paint, the stuff that is supposed to bond at the molecular level with plastic. But, if I screw it up, I'll be buying a new one.
I'd be interesed in hearing what other peeps do.
Nothing lasts very long.
I am considering painting it glossy black with Krylon Fusion Paint, the stuff that is supposed to bond at the molecular level with plastic. But, if I screw it up, I'll be buying a new one.
I'd be interesed in hearing what other peeps do.
Originally Posted by jpandes
I have the 99 front lip and it's looking pretty crappy and grey now. I have been using everything from Armor All, to tire wet type products. I've even tried using "bumper black" it's like a dye used by detailers to make black trim pieces looking new.
Nothing lasts very long.
I am considering painting it glossy black with Krylon Fusion Paint, the stuff that is supposed to bond at the molecular level with plastic. But, if I screw it up, I'll be buying a new one.
I'd be interesed in hearing what other peeps do.
Nothing lasts very long.
I am considering painting it glossy black with Krylon Fusion Paint, the stuff that is supposed to bond at the molecular level with plastic. But, if I screw it up, I'll be buying a new one.
I'd be interesed in hearing what other peeps do.
Originally Posted by yuichiror
Have you tried Mother's Back to Black? I've used it on all the exterior black trim on my FD it works really great. In fact, the trim around the driver's side window was turning gray because I got gas all over it(long story). I tried Armor All and tire wet, but that stuff worked for like a day. After a few applications of the Mother's stuff, it looks brand spankin' new!
I will give this stuff a try.
Thanks.
everybody knows 303 aerospace protectant/conditioner is the best for plastic. farrrr better than any meguiars, mothers, armor all protectants (complete crap that i use for wheel wells....)... longest lasting and IMO its the best product for plastic ive used for years. give it a try, probably some samples over at 303products.com . Sonus eclispe (or something with total and eclipse) is good too. give that a try!!
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If you have wax on the piece that left a white residue, get out the peanut butter. Yes, peanut butter. That'll take the wax off quite nicely.
If you plan on doing a big wax job on the car, just take the lip spoiler off before you start or mask it off.
I use Eagle One tire shine gel - has a foam applicator, and it's kind of a gel type stuff. I put it on the tires, the lip spoiler, the black aero things in front of the rear tires, and the black plastic bottom under the rear spoiler. Doesn't last forever but looks just fine.
Dale
If you plan on doing a big wax job on the car, just take the lip spoiler off before you start or mask it off.
I use Eagle One tire shine gel - has a foam applicator, and it's kind of a gel type stuff. I put it on the tires, the lip spoiler, the black aero things in front of the rear tires, and the black plastic bottom under the rear spoiler. Doesn't last forever but looks just fine.
Dale
Originally Posted by DaleClark
If you have wax on the piece that left a white residue, get out the peanut butter. Yes, peanut butter. That'll take the wax off quite nicely.
If you plan on doing a big wax job on the car, just take the lip spoiler off before you start or mask it off.
I use Eagle One tire shine gel - has a foam applicator, and it's kind of a gel type stuff. I put it on the tires, the lip spoiler, the black aero things in front of the rear tires, and the black plastic bottom under the rear spoiler. Doesn't last forever but looks just fine.
Dale
If you plan on doing a big wax job on the car, just take the lip spoiler off before you start or mask it off.
I use Eagle One tire shine gel - has a foam applicator, and it's kind of a gel type stuff. I put it on the tires, the lip spoiler, the black aero things in front of the rear tires, and the black plastic bottom under the rear spoiler. Doesn't last forever but looks just fine.
Dale
I don't think I will remove it again unless I have to, getting the tabs pressed into the slot is a pain and seems to be a 'few times only' deal where sooner or later the tabs will break. I will mask it to do a thorough wax job.
Thanks for the PB tip. I'd never heard of that.
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; Mar 1, 2006 at 08:50 PM.
Originally Posted by wReX
I use the Back-to-Black stuff as well, its pretty decent, def better than the armor all stuff I think.
ducting...

ducting...

I replaced one of my ducts, as it was broken off the car by a previous owner. I seem to remember it was pretty reasonably priced even brand-new, or at least reasonable for a Mazda part
. Broken stuff like that annoys the HELL out of me, so that was fixed pronto on my car
.
The R1 brake duct actually clips onto the stock panel that's there. But, I think the new part comes with the regular panel and the brake duct.
Dale
. Broken stuff like that annoys the HELL out of me, so that was fixed pronto on my car
.The R1 brake duct actually clips onto the stock panel that's there. But, I think the new part comes with the regular panel and the brake duct.
Dale
Originally Posted by DaleClark
If you have wax on the piece that left a white residue, get out the peanut butter. Yes, peanut butter. That'll take the wax off quite nicely.
Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL
I wonder if painting would take any of the elasticity out of the peice?
EXPERTS CHOICE - black leather dye restorer - with foam applicator.
"heavily pigmented dye covers all scuffs, scratches, and worn areas leaving a water resistant durable finish"
I lightly sanded my with 220, wiped them off and applied several coats of this leather dye. Misted a duplicolor clear coat which produced lightly stippled finish. They look brand new .
Attached pic doesnt really do it justice, but they were pretty hammered before the restoration.
Prior to this process I had always used BACK TO BLACK.
chuck
"heavily pigmented dye covers all scuffs, scratches, and worn areas leaving a water resistant durable finish"
I lightly sanded my with 220, wiped them off and applied several coats of this leather dye. Misted a duplicolor clear coat which produced lightly stippled finish. They look brand new .
Attached pic doesnt really do it justice, but they were pretty hammered before the restoration.
Prior to this process I had always used BACK TO BLACK.
chuck
I never do anything to the lip but clean it. Keep it clean and wax free and you don't need any dressing products.
When I wax my car with the orbital buffer I spend about 15 mins with blue painters tape masking the lip, moldings, marker lights etc. Then I can go to town with the buffer and get finished mucho quick. I can lay wax down on the car so fast I actually have to take a break before any of it is ready to be buffed.
When I wax my car with the orbital buffer I spend about 15 mins with blue painters tape masking the lip, moldings, marker lights etc. Then I can go to town with the buffer and get finished mucho quick. I can lay wax down on the car so fast I actually have to take a break before any of it is ready to be buffed.
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