new power fc...breaking in motor but IDLE LOPES..any ideas???
04-10-02, 01:36 PM
#1
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new power fc...breaking in motor but IDLE LOPES..any ideas???
just got my car back last week...am slowly and patiently breaking in the motor....the power fc is new as are the turbos..fuel system etc....
all sensors and solonoids were replaced with new.
my prob is that the idle lopes upon startup (though not every single time). it goes up and down vroom....vrooom ....vroom between a thousand and eighteen hundred rpm's. the idle is set at a thousand on the commander. I know the ecu will hunt for the idle when the car is cold but I do think it is a bit extreme at this point.
what do you guys think?
any help is appreciated.
j
all sensors and solonoids were replaced with new.
my prob is that the idle lopes upon startup (though not every single time). it goes up and down vroom....vrooom ....vroom between a thousand and eighteen hundred rpm's. the idle is set at a thousand on the commander. I know the ecu will hunt for the idle when the car is cold but I do think it is a bit extreme at this point.
what do you guys think?
any help is appreciated.
j
04-10-02, 03:08 PM
#2
I'm a CF and poop smith
i think it might possibly be a leak in the intake manifold, that seems too make the idle loop/hunt. also do you still have your airpump in working condition. does it even out when your car warms up?
04-10-02, 03:21 PM
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This is common if you reset the PFC or install a new one. It's learning the idle of the car. Someone fixed it by adjusting the idle air bleeder screw under the throttle body(remove of intake elbow to see better).
The Apex'i website documentation states that you're suppose to let the car idle for 10 minutes w/o messing with throttle so it can learn the idle. I did that when I had my PFC, but the idle would fluctuate for weeks, but finally went away. The air bleeder screw helped, but didn't remove it instantly.
The Apex'i website documentation states that you're suppose to let the car idle for 10 minutes w/o messing with throttle so it can learn the idle. I did that when I had my PFC, but the idle would fluctuate for weeks, but finally went away. The air bleeder screw helped, but didn't remove it instantly.
04-10-02, 03:22 PM
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Oh yeah, the fluctuation was inconsistant and seemed to happen more often when the car was cold. It was embarrasing cause at intersections, pedestrians thought I was reving my engine at them and tried to run them over.
04-10-02, 03:37 PM
#6
If you cut the wrong wires for the PFC the car just will flat out not run at all.. I have had the same symptoms he describes on my 93 as well with PFC installed and I am 100% sure I installed it correctly. I have not had time to check out my UIM and LIM for leaks, I know I don't have any vacuum leaks though. Mine only does it right before it is fully warmed up, say between 80-90C.
Matt
93 SSM
Matt
93 SSM
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04-10-02, 04:53 PM
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it is installed correctly I believe....it does sound like my engine is revving...it only does it for about twenty seconds and then it mellows down to the even 1k. I have a slight idle change from the streetport but that is it....the loping idle is annoying as hell..embarrassing too. heheeh
solutions!!! we need solutions.
what do you guys think?
ray at srmotorsports told me that the fc will hunt for the idle and should mellow out...but its been almost a week and about 350 miles of vroom vroom vroom when the car is cold. how long did this symptom of idle hunting last on your car before it settled down mr one guy?
thanks again
j
solutions!!! we need solutions.
what do you guys think?
ray at srmotorsports told me that the fc will hunt for the idle and should mellow out...but its been almost a week and about 350 miles of vroom vroom vroom when the car is cold. how long did this symptom of idle hunting last on your car before it settled down mr one guy?
thanks again
j
04-10-02, 07:21 PM
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christine...lol...that name fits the cursed bitch!
yes I put in a new o2 sensor.
the only things that still need to be replaced on her are the radiator...toe and trailing stuff...and the IC...maybe the gears in the rear....heehhee
for now its all tune and figure out these little annoying things.
dyno on the nineteenth...cant wait!
j
yes I put in a new o2 sensor.
the only things that still need to be replaced on her are the radiator...toe and trailing stuff...and the IC...maybe the gears in the rear....heehhee
for now its all tune and figure out these little annoying things.
dyno on the nineteenth...cant wait!
j
04-11-02, 01:17 AM
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first try the idle air jet under the elbow. if that doesn't work do what i did, disconnect the ICS, idle control solenoid. its at the back of the plenum and firewall, easy to pull. Mine did the same thing and now its fine, it only idles bit low when cold.
08-21-02, 12:06 PM
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Are you getting a reading on the water temp? I had the same problem and it turned out that my water temp sensor came unplugged. Use the monitor setting and see if the water temp is reporting a valid temp. If it's not, the ECU assumes the car is 150 degrees and runs too lean while cold.
08-21-02, 01:11 PM
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i did do both those suggestions back when it was happening...it did not get any better no matter how much it was adjusted...it became a little more intermittant that is all.
j
j
08-21-02, 01:28 PM
#17
Mine also still does it now for over 7 weeks now since I last installed. When I first installed the PFC in the beginning of the year it mellowed out after about 5-7 days and then I instlalled some new **** like FMIC, Radiator, etc.. and had to reset my ECU now it does it again and it won't go away. I assumed that since it worked fine before that messing with my Idle screw would not help any since it must be in the right location since it has never been moved from last time. I did however take off my UIM without replacing the gaskets when I reinstalled it, could I just have a leak somewhere? I removed the TB, UIM, and all the Air pump stuff. Should I buy a new gasket for all that? You guys are right that it is annoying as hell, people always ask if I have a Cam in it. I say, yeah, and it's huge.
08-25-02, 10:13 PM
#19
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Originally posted by adax
Try this, I've seen it work on 3 cars which had bouncing idle of week's duration.
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
Try this, I've seen it work on 3 cars which had bouncing idle of week's duration.
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
Good luck,
Shawn
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