Howdy folks -

A few months ago I had the honor of purchasing my dream car - a 1993 Montego Blue RX7. She's in great shape and mostly stock. I've had her on track a few times already along with some weekend drives - brilliant car. I have a few questions regarding some modifications I'd like to make.

Boost gauge - I'd like to place an analog one somewhere besides the A-pillar that would blend in nicely - any suggestions for a clean location?

Suspension - I plan on sourcing some Ohlins dampers - I like the balance of the car for now so I plan on keeping the bars stock while shooting for a 130-150 lbs/in wheel rate at all 4 corners. I can already tell some of the rear ball joints (or are they bushings?) are already going - this seems to be a weak point. Are there any reliable aftermarket alternatives?

Engine - I'm shooting for 270-280 wheel hp with RELIABILITY. I'd like this setup to last around 30k if at all possible (engine currently has about 5k, bone stock). I imagine this will involve a piggyback, wideband, some tooning, and a catback. I have a piggyback, need to buy a wideband, and would like a recommendation for a catback - I'd like it as quiet as possible, also with stock looking tips.

Brakes - I plan on making my own custom Alcon kit

I look forward to hearing your input!

Cheers,

Ted

 

Hey Ted,
Make sure you check out the FAQ thread if you haven't done so already:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
You can find out a ton of info there. You can also do a search for more common topics like your exhaust question. Although I'm sure a lot of people are going to recommend to you the Racing Beat Dual Tip catback exhaust for its close to stock look and excellent sound quality

 

Change fuel filter,plugs,wires, oil, Pettit downpipe,intake,Bönez Performance Converter and racing beat catback duel tip and that will keep your smile for a while.

 

Howdy
Many here have gone with a column mounted boost gauge. Sight line is right with the tach. Not a great picture, but gives you an idea. And good call on the boost guage, it should be one of the first mods....along with removing the pre-cat if it's still there and replacing it with a downpipe.

As far as the suspension noise, that's likely the pillow-ball bushings. Common issue, and easily fixed for ~$300 for a full set of 6 bushing. Regarding power mods, I'll let someone else with alot more experience answer those or you can do some searching. I still run on the stock ECU. For stock looks, good performance and neighbor-friendly sound, I'd suggest the Racing Beat Dual Tip catback. http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm. A little pricey but I understand it's quality materials and construction.
Congrats on your car.

 

Thanks for the replies thus far! Looks like this will be a good resource.

Have a good Friday night!

Cheers,

Ted

 

i agree with the column mount boost gauge, and the racing beat dual tip catback (since ur trying to keep OEM look)

how much money you have to spend on it for reliability mods?
i would recomend doing some sort of intake to match the exhaust, and a apex power fc, and if you have the cash i would snag up a set of efini turbos. that will put you in the 280 range.

looks.. snag up the complete '99 spec kit if you can afford it.

it all depends on your budget

 

congrats on the purchase, 280rwhp shouldn't be a problem. Just a couple of basic mods.

 

Based on what you wrote here are my suggestions;
Stock you are putting down around 205 to 225 RWhp depending on the strength of the motor and turbos.

1 Boost gauge (0 hp lets you know the turbos are working right to start with)
2 Power FC w/commander (10 to 30hp over stock)
3 K&N filter or Cold Air intake
4 Tripoint Engineer Front swaybar, Racing Beat Rear (1 to 3 sec off lap time)
5 Boost controller (hp depends on boost)
6 Downpipe (10 to 30 hp)
7 Double adjustable Koni coilovers w/ 650lbs front 380lbs rear springs ( 1 to 3 sec off lap time)
8 Racing Beat Catback (5 to 10 hp)
9 Upgraded Fuel pump
10 Enlarged primary or secondary injectors
11 High Flow Cat or Midpipe (10 to 40hp)
12 Upgraded intercooler

Other things you should consider if you are tracking the car, upgraded radiator, replacement AST, Stainless steel brake/clutch lines, Hawk HP+ pads and 500 deg brake fluid.

A bunch of people will argue that you can open up the exhaust and intake and still run the stock computer if you control the boost, but I will offer you 2 threads a week on this forum " Help, Did I blow my motor" as proof that one of the first things you should do is get computer and boost controller.

 

Boost Gauge- Do you use the dash center speaker? That's where i have boost and a linear temp gauge- but you could use the PFC for temp. EGT will be there soon.


"keeping the bars stock" The strut tower bars? From what i understand the rear bar is just for looks. I can tell you with confidence that installing an ebay special front strut bar makes the car feel a lot better on on ramps and off ramps.

As far as the power goal goes. Finish your reliability mods, open up your exhaust and do the "cheap *** airbox mod" and i'm sure you'll be at or beyond 280ish whp. I swear by my PFC, but you may want to haunt the engine management forums to make your own decision.

EDIT: "11 High Flow Cat or Midpipe (10 to 40hp)"- if you do this on bone stock turbos you'll get boost creep. my car simply didn't stop boosting, felt great but my right foot isn't a boost controller. Either get your turbos ported, or install a HF cat or restrictor plate.

 

Get the GReddy intake, that way you can have some nice hardpipes for your intake =)

 

As said above, center speaker spot is cool. Gives a great view for the passenger as well