Hey everyone, looked around and haven't seen a thread or even reviews for this yet. Mishimoto came out with a radiator thats a direct fit specific for the fd, I ordered it and it should be in next week. Il post pics of the install and the fit. My car is basically stock right now.

here is a link to it: Mazda RX-7 Performance Aluminum Radiator, 1993–1995, by Mishimoto

its $420 on mishimoto's site, I got it for $283 on ebay (with a paypal discount of 10%)

I got it because I'm new to the fd scene and I have been experiencing some overheating even on short trips, don't have any leaks or anything anywhere so this was my next step. Will update soon!

 

I recently purchased one as well. Has not been installed yet. But was well packaged and is a real quality product. Nice welds too

 

I which you good luck. I massaged one into a 97 cobra 18 months ago-it is now leaking from most every core on the entire radiator.

 

Mishimoto quality has gone up greatly recently. I'll use them in fd's that have stock intakes and intercoolers for fitment reasons. Koyos are much thicker and make it difficult to fit with the stock setup.

 

Good to know. I like that it has the holes for the mounting ears, some radiator have built-in mounting ears and if you need to mount the rad lower or do something out of the ordinary you have to cut the ears off.

CSF used to make an all aluminum stock replacement that was a perfect drop-in and very reasonably priced. This looks like a good substitute.

Dale

 

The Mishimoto looks alright. I was considering it for some time but I ended up doing the Koyo. Chris S (RockinRotary) was able to help me mount it in the stock location with stock IC and all. I just went with the Koyo as they are proven, though perhaps slightly less convenient.

 

Just got it and put it in today! Its a perfect fit! no modifications at all, easiest job ever. Drove it around using a lot of boost for 15 minutes or so and I doesn't get nearly as hot as it did before. Also yes, you can take the stock mounting ears off and put them right on this one, I have pictures of that and I will be posting in the morning!

 

So I finished it all up yesterday, was super easy. The route I basically took was;

1. remove battery/battery tray
2. remove air filter/intercooler cover
3. remove fuse box bolts(no need to unplug anything)
4. losen hose clamps and remove intercooler hoses and disconnect AST bolt that holds it to the intercooler (leave AST all together no need to unhook it)
5. Disconnect vacuum lines in the front right (2 silver ones)
6. disconnect intercooler from plastic front air directs
7. remove intercooler then remove the front plastic piece that directs the air
8. unplug and remove fans/fan shroud
9. drain all coolant from radiator if you haven't already done so.
10. remove radiator.

The mishimoto one is a direct fit, only thing you need to do is take the ears off the top of the old radiator and put them on the new one. pics attached

reverse steps and add coolant!

My cooling issues are getting much better, took a very spirited drive after all was done and it was staying much cooler than before, I may have different issues somewhere because I was starting to get hot in the first 10 minutes of driving before the new radiator. Now after a 30 minute drive the temp gauge (still stock ) stayed in the middle, rose a bit after really slamming on her after the first 30 minute drive, then fell right back down after driving normally again. I NEED TO MOVE SOMEWHERE THAT ISNT A DRY 90-100 DEGREES EVERY DAY.

 

Good info and thanks for the pics but it still sounds like your temp is rising a little more than you want.

Have you heard about the FC water temp sensor trick? If you use a FC sensor your fan will come on sooner so that would help you.

I would get rid of that AST or get a metal one before you have a bigger mess and costly repair.

 

I've heard that getting rid of the AST isn't a good idea. Thoughts? and Yea A metal one may be in order. Yea I've heard of the FC sensor trick. I'm still looking in to that, from the little I've researched so far it seems like its not the easiest to get too.

also I was thinking a downpipe and relocating the battery may help. To be honest though I'm still in a personal battle with myself on saving up and doing an LS3 or if I play my cards right an LS7 swap. the battle im having though is that my car is mostly all original and the purist's perspective would hate it.

 

I havent been running one and see a few ppl on here that don't run one.

Adding a down pipe might create boost creep if u don't port the wastegat.

If you are worried about changing water temorary sensor is going to be challenging then I would just get an aluminum ast for now ando save up for a v8.

Rotary fd needs a lot of attention. I used to have a v8 s13 and loved it. Blast to drive and a lot easier to maintain.

 

Funny you say that, I got rid of my S14 for the FD, thanks for the input though! I will look into swapping the ast, hopefully with summer fading away that will help too

 

Sounds like some ducting should be next.

 

You need to get a water temp gauge. Just get the Prosport gauge for about $60 along with a Mishimoto sensor adapter. Easy, easy install after the hard part of routing the gauge to the cabin. Also, have you replaced the radiator hoses? I'd get on Amazon and order up the gauge, Mishimoto hoses and the "MWHS-38-BK Black 38mm Water Temperature Sensor Adapter" to easily install the gauge. I put the adapter right on the main radiator exit hose on the front passenger side.

Also, are you running the stock under tray? I ran my car without it for a bit due to broken bolts. I then took the clips off and used push-snaps and zip ties to mount it back up where the bolts had broken. It brought under hood temps down considerably and water temps were at about 195 on the Prosport gauge.

 

Yea I just got my digital prosports in the mail. I didn't know they had a sensor adapter thats good to know I'll look into it. Yes still running the stock tray. Just ran in to some serios turbo issue though so my time is a bit consumed with that

 

Just wanted to let you guys know that we (Dragon Motorsports) Have the new Mishimoto radiator brand new for sale for $270 shipped! Check out our website or contact me if interested!

Dragon Motorsports Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator Link

 

Working on some overdue maint. on my new to me 93 Touring. I just started pulling things apart to replace the radiator with a Mishimoto replacement and get to as many heater hoses as I can while the system is drained. I have working AC at this point. How to a remove the IC ducting that surrounds the receiver dryer? I am reluctant to try and move it to far and bend the lines. Like I said, the system is charged and working.

Hopefully bumping an older thread is not an issue.

Thanks

 

Unbolt the dryer bracket and carefully bend it out of the way. It was a stupid on Mazda's part not to put a flex in the lines there but it can be done without breaking or disconnecting anything.

 

Thanks. I started down that path and decided to wait for further input. I am just worried about how many other times this may have been done in the past. I am more inclined to make a cut in the duct that may be able to be resealed with some tape. But I will give the bending another shot.

 

A flex? Are you referring to hose? Hoses take up way more space (which we all know is at a premium in this engine bay), have a much larger bend radius than the aluminum tubing used, plus they slowly leak refrigerant. But yeah...totally stupid, Mazda.

 

Finally got the Mishimoto installed. I ordered new Mazda upper mounts. When I went to drop the rad in the stock upper brackets wouldn't allow it to drop into place. Took a cut-off wheel and removed maybe 1/8" of material and it dropped right in.

The lower hose was leaking and I had to tighten the clamp up pretty tight. The lower hose seems to fit pretty loosely on the new rad.

 

New radiator with old coolant hoses?

 

Or just linearize the stock gauge. The stock sensor is in a better location for catching over temperatures sooner.

 

ALL hoses are new Mazda. I replaced everything but the throttle body and AST with OEM. The input and output on the Mishi rad does not seem to be the same diameter as the Mazda, I could be wrong. The new hoses slid onto the rad very easily, much easier than they did to the engine side.

I think the worm drive clamp is part of the problem, creating a pinch point and the leak. The car didn't have the OEM spring type clamps on it.

 

Oh OK, I use lined hose clamps when ever possable, they provide a more even clamping force and the threads do not dig into the rubber. NAPA has them behind the counter, they're well worth a few extra shekels.