New member questions
#1
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New member questions
Hey all,
I just bought my 1993 Vintage Red touring model a few weeks ago. I previously owned a 2000 Subaru Impreza RS, the impreza real enthusiast bought Anyway I have a few soft questions I hope someone can take a few seconds to address.
1) When jacking the car for routine maintance(diff fluid, oil change, cooling system flush...etc) where is the best places to put jack stands using the stock jack to raise the car at recommended positions. I know on my Subaru I used to just use the frame rails and they would bend under the weight over time.
2) I have a weird idle issue, where the idle will bounce around between 1500 and 2000 rpm, but if I turn on my lights the idle settles to 1500. Should I automatically assume it is a vaccum line somewhere or something else? It is odd that when the are lights on settles the idle ( I do know the ECU was replaced under warranty)
I thank anyone who can take the time to jot down a few responses besides "why don't you just search", which I have done. Any other advice about the FD would be appreciated. I've done a lot of reasearch and do all the work on my car myself. My AIM name is "pistonsR4wussies" if anyone floats on AIM during the day. I'm glad to be in the community that loves and owns the car I have dreamed of owning since I was 14!!
As if this post wasn't long enough, I have a few things that I want to cover in my first stage of modifications for this car..they are:
Boost gauge
Water Temp gauge
Aluminium AST
Better radiator (not sure of which model or brand for street/autocross duty)
forgetting anything
Thanks again!!
I just bought my 1993 Vintage Red touring model a few weeks ago. I previously owned a 2000 Subaru Impreza RS, the impreza real enthusiast bought Anyway I have a few soft questions I hope someone can take a few seconds to address.
1) When jacking the car for routine maintance(diff fluid, oil change, cooling system flush...etc) where is the best places to put jack stands using the stock jack to raise the car at recommended positions. I know on my Subaru I used to just use the frame rails and they would bend under the weight over time.
2) I have a weird idle issue, where the idle will bounce around between 1500 and 2000 rpm, but if I turn on my lights the idle settles to 1500. Should I automatically assume it is a vaccum line somewhere or something else? It is odd that when the are lights on settles the idle ( I do know the ECU was replaced under warranty)
I thank anyone who can take the time to jot down a few responses besides "why don't you just search", which I have done. Any other advice about the FD would be appreciated. I've done a lot of reasearch and do all the work on my car myself. My AIM name is "pistonsR4wussies" if anyone floats on AIM during the day. I'm glad to be in the community that loves and owns the car I have dreamed of owning since I was 14!!
As if this post wasn't long enough, I have a few things that I want to cover in my first stage of modifications for this car..they are:
Boost gauge
Water Temp gauge
Aluminium AST
Better radiator (not sure of which model or brand for street/autocross duty)
forgetting anything
Thanks again!!
#2
hmm the car should be idling at about 750 rpm-900 why dont you just adjust the screw on the throttle cable to see if you can get it down a bit... cause 2000rpm thats a damn high idle. Welcome to the forum.
Oh. and another thing that I've read about is that in some cases the cruise control cable is really tight causing the throttle position to be a little higher. You should check that first.
Oh. and another thing that I've read about is that in some cases the cruise control cable is really tight causing the throttle position to be a little higher. You should check that first.
Last edited by Juancm5483; 01-14-03 at 11:38 PM.
#3
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There is a seal like a thin piece of metal just under the side skirts of the car. The slot in the top of the jack should fit right over that seal. Whatever you do don't jack the car up under the floor boards. I can't even imagine what damage that would do. Just look under your car the seal should be about an inch and a half or so inward just under the side skirts. I just jacked my car up the other day to do brake work. Good luck. Welcome.
#4
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I can't help with the idle problem. The Jack stand locations are indicated in the shop manual. You can download the manual here: http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
Also, don't forget a downpipe in your reliability mod list.
When you get your boost gauge installed, would you be kind enough to post your boost pattern. I'm at 7000ft and I had a wierd boost pattern (12-5-6, with transition at 5500rpm) with the stock precontrol and wastegate pills. I just want to make sure my car is normal.
Also, don't forget a downpipe in your reliability mod list.
When you get your boost gauge installed, would you be kind enough to post your boost pattern. I'm at 7000ft and I had a wierd boost pattern (12-5-6, with transition at 5500rpm) with the stock precontrol and wastegate pills. I just want to make sure my car is normal.
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I'm going to order the boost gauge tomorrow, so I'll post the boost pattern as soon as I get it installed. Would you recommend the downpipe with the stock cat back? I don't have the cash to put on a full turbo back yet. Thank you all for your responces!! Also I'm was planning on going with Pettit racings column mounted gauge or buying the column gauge from rx7.com, any suggestions on which column mount gauge is the best available as far a fit, finish, and cost go?
#6
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First of all WELCOME to the forum... next... Greddy Guages are exceptional for "Eye Candy" qualities like, fit and finish but overall I've found them to be a damn good guages. Next... I've owned a WRX and yeah... go for the frame rail for your jack stands... perfectly safe.. If you have a floor jack, use your stock jack to raise the car a bit to allow clearance to slip the floor jack under. Try checking http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/ for parts (aftermarket) their prices a competitive and selection & order turn around times superior. On the Idle problem... Baring a throttle calble mis adjustment... you could have a vacuum leak... Get a can of carb cleaner... and with the car running... try spraying around in suspected in the engine compartment... should there be a leak,,, the idle will noticeably change in pitch... you're only interested in areas between the metering plate and the engine intake ports....
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#8
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Ok, so I adjusted the throttle adjusting screw and air adjusting screw. they were full out and the engine was still idling at 1500 rpm and I still got the funky behavior when the lights were off (the bouncing idle). So my next step, i assume after checking with carb cleaner for a leak is the check the ISC and AWS solenoids.... errr suggestions??
I'll update tomorrow with results from carb spray
I'll update tomorrow with results from carb spray
#10
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Ok so I sprayed carb cleaner all around the throttle body, no change in idle. The A/C DOES effect it and the idle drops to about 900-1000 rpm. I'm still a newbie so what should I go for next!? Maybe I didn't spray well enough with the carb cleaner, what should I be concentrating on? Should I check the UIM gasket with the carb cleaner? (I don't know if it was replaced with a metal one or not) Fuel filter will be replaced this weekend and airfilter is like new...
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