When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Little background. Ive been around cars for 2 decades now and have been in the jdm/euro scene for just as long. I've had high hp cars before and at this point in my life Im not looking for a high hp fd but a clean title, not ratted out example. Been searching for a couple of weeks now and while I thought I had the budget ($30k) it seems I'm a bit late in finding a clean example at that price point.
Is the current market for an FD on the rise or is it just bad timing due to covid and weather (end of fall / early winter in tri-state)? Any advice and or leads would be greatly appreciated. I'm located in NY.
Welcome. With your budget it sounds like you can get a cleaner, lower mileage car. Stock and well taken care of is preferable to a modified car with a questionable history. The other option is a clean chassis that may need a rebuild. That way you can build it from the start and know what you are getting.
Welcome. With your budget it sounds like you can get a cleaner, lower mileage car. Stock and well taken care of is preferable to a modified car with a questionable history. The other option is a clean chassis that may need a rebuild. That way you can build it from the start and know what you are getting.
Thanks, I dont mind the BPU upgrades as I do enjoy the modification aspect. Light modifications with a clean body/title is the criteria.
The biggest challenge with these cars, despite their reputation, is not the engine. It's getting a clean interior and body electrical. Find the most stock interior you can as a starting point, and as I pointed out in another thread - there's no substitute for an interior that hasn't been pulled apart and wiring that hasn't been cooked (due to mileage) or hacked up (due to a 90s Viper alarm or something). New interior parts have very little availability now and used parts don't cut it.
Try to get 50k or less miles on the body if you can. If the car is nearly stock and compression is low, you can always get a remanufactured engine installed or have a shop do a rebuild. But you can't put the genie back in the bottle on the interior and wiring.
Keep your eye on BaT, one of the better places to find well kept FDs. Naturally prices tend to be on the higher side. A really clean 65k miles Montego Blue just went for $31k, very light mods with 100+ compression. I've seen 1-2 owner clean higher mileage FDs go for below 30k.
Given your budget - you should be able to fine a clean stock'ish mid mile (50k-80k) range car. It seems like these were very hot last year around this time and have since plateaued a bit. Low mileage clean examples will be above your price point and hacked modified examples will be well within budget.
But you can't put the genie back in the bottle on the interior and wiring.
Agree on interior pieces. Wiring can always be replaced/repaired good as new, but its time consuming and if you aren't comfortable with doing it yourself it could definitely run you about the same as an engine replacement to have a shop do it.
Regarding the interior, not all parts are as difficult to replace. These are the things you really want in good shape:
Dash + AC Vents + Glovebox. You can find the AC vents used but they can be a pita to replace and they aren't usually cheap. Same with the glovebox.
Door panels
Center armrest (the part that runs all the way to the rear bins)
If you want the stock carpet, make sure it's in good shape.
HVAC trim Panel, if you want the OEM one.
Driver side map pocket (ideally the lid too, but the lid can be replaced the pocket itself is much more difficult to source)
Headliner/moonroof cover, especially if you have/want a tan one.
Interior trim on the bottom of the hatch
Rear bins
Things that are so-so in replacement difficulty
Door seal trim (If you have and want to keep tan. Black, metal, and carbon aftermarket versions aren't hard to source)
Other smaller trim pieces. If they are trim color specific, tan can be harder to find than black (but also sometimes cheaper because black is more popular)
Interior trim in the hatch area (not the trim on the bottom of the hatch itself)
Hatch privacy cover
Hatch strut brace/bar
Hatch struts
The Bose Snake in the hatch, if the car was/is equipped with the Bose system or you want it there. Particularly the one coupler latch on the passenger side is not easy to find though.
If anything on your gauge cluster doesn't work (tach, odometer, speedometer, etc) they can normally be repaired, but it can cost a bit. NIB gauge replacements aren't common and are also pretty expensive.
A pillars can normally be found used in decent shape still
Seatbelts can be found used, but can be harder to find if you want tan ones.
Center trim under the steering wheel (the one with the crotch vent) and its AC "flex" tube can be found used, but not always easy to find or in good shape
Things that I wouldn't get hung up on as long as the price on the car is right
Seats can be reupholstered and/or built with new foam
If you don't care about having OEM carpet, carpet can always be replaced with aftermarket. Tedious, but doable.
Center shift panel (has the foglight switch, etc) can still be had new.
HVAC trim panel has aftermarket options. May require black trim paint to match and some minor fitting. Used panels still come up often enough.
Gauge cluster hood/face commonly are broken from age. They are still available new and there are aftermarket ones also available (same as above, may require trim paint and minor fitting)
Passenger door handle is almost always broken in some way from age. Aftermarket replacements are available.
Driver side map pocket lid has aftermarket sources
Interior door cups/sails can be replaced.
Strut tower interior caps in the hatch can still be sourced OEM new
Privacy cover hinges can be sourced aftermarket now AFAIK
Defrost vent/grill on the top of the dash can be replaced OEM or aftermarket
Center dash speaker cover can still be replaced OEM
Not a comprehensive list by any means, but that's the obvious ones that come to my mind. Keep in mind that if an interior trim peice is just discolored, or just has a couple of damaged/missing clips it can generally be repaired if replacement isn't possible.
Yes the advice here is great These guys have been around. I always look for good original paint and interior and have seen a few higher mileage FD,s have the good paint and interior. Be patient though. Find the good paint and interior.
If I were you, I'd get one of the $300 compression testers. My 95 has numbers in the 120s with 18000 miles. You could use the compression numbers as a bargaining tool for sure and save yourself a ton of money getting a beautiful FD. I went with the vintage red for paint color. It's the only color t hat doesn't have clearcoat. Some other colors go for less, some go for more like any sports car does. Getting the right color may save you some money too if the color doesn't mean that much to you.
The biggest challenge with these cars, despite their reputation, is not the engine. It's getting a clean interior and body electrical. Find the most stock interior you can as a starting point, and as I pointed out in another thread - there's no substitute for an interior that hasn't been pulled apart and wiring that hasn't been cooked (due to mileage) or hacked up (due to a 90s Viper alarm or something). New interior parts have very little availability now and used parts don't cut it.
Try to get 50k or less miles on the body if you can. If the car is nearly stock and compression is low, you can always get a remanufactured engine installed or have a shop do a rebuild. But you can't put the genie back in the bottle on the interior and wiring.
Ive seen a few in person already which fell victim to exactly what youre saying. Decent body and good rotarys but the interior was rough. Given the age of the fd's now i assumed finding interior panel pieces would be hard to come by
Originally Posted by MarcZ55
Keep your eye on BaT, one of the better places to find well kept FDs. Naturally prices tend to be on the higher side. A really clean 65k miles Montego Blue just went for $31k, very light mods with 100+ compression. I've seen 1-2 owner clean higher mileage FDs go for below 30k.
Saw the CYM that didnt hit reserve. Doesnt seem like BAT listings fared well for the sellers. Unless prices have since gone up. I dont see those BAT prices on listings (ebay, craigslist, cars, autotrader, etc.)
Originally Posted by IMAGINETHAT
Given your budget - you should be able to fine a clean stock'ish mid mile (50k-80k) range car. It seems like these were very hot last year around this time and have since plateaued a bit. Low mileage clean examples will be above your price point and hacked modified examples will be well within budget.
Having a hard time finding one not completely ragged out or in pieces.
Agree on interior pieces. Wiring can always be replaced/repaired good as new, but its time consuming and if you aren't comfortable with doing it yourself it could definitely run you about the same as an engine replacement to have a shop do it.
Regarding the interior, not all parts are as difficult to replace. These are the things you really want in good shape:
Dash + AC Vents + Glovebox. You can find the AC vents used but they can be a pita to replace and they aren't usually cheap. Same with the glovebox.
Door panels
Center armrest (the part that runs all the way to the rear bins)
If you want the stock carpet, make sure it's in good shape.
HVAC trim Panel, if you want the OEM one.
Driver side map pocket (ideally the lid too, but the lid can be replaced the pocket itself is much more difficult to source)
Headliner/moonroof cover, especially if you have/want a tan one.
Interior trim on the bottom of the hatch
Rear bins
Things that are so-so in replacement difficulty
Door seal trim (If you have and want to keep tan. Black, metal, and carbon aftermarket versions aren't hard to source)
Other smaller trim pieces. If they are trim color specific, tan can be harder to find than black (but also sometimes cheaper because black is more popular)
Interior trim in the hatch area (not the trim on the bottom of the hatch itself)
Hatch privacy cover
Hatch strut brace/bar
Hatch struts
The Bose Snake in the hatch, if the car was/is equipped with the Bose system or you want it there. Particularly the one coupler latch on the passenger side is not easy to find though.
If anything on your gauge cluster doesn't work (tach, odometer, speedometer, etc) they can normally be repaired, but it can cost a bit. NIB gauge replacements aren't common and are also pretty expensive.
A pillars can normally be found used in decent shape still
Seatbelts can be found used, but can be harder to find if you want tan ones.
Center trim under the steering wheel (the one with the crotch vent) and its AC "flex" tube can be found used, but not always easy to find or in good shape
Things that I wouldn't get hung up on as long as the price on the car is right
Seats can be reupholstered and/or built with new foam
If you don't care about having OEM carpet, carpet can always be replaced with aftermarket. Tedious, but doable.
Center shift panel (has the foglight switch, etc) can still be had new.
HVAC trim panel has aftermarket options. May require black trim paint to match and some minor fitting. Used panels still come up often enough.
Gauge cluster hood/face commonly are broken from age. They are still available new and there are aftermarket ones also available (same as above, may require trim paint and minor fitting)
Passenger door handle is almost always broken in some way from age. Aftermarket replacements are available.
Driver side map pocket lid has aftermarket sources
Interior door cups/sails can be replaced.
Strut tower interior caps in the hatch can still be sourced OEM new
Privacy cover hinges can be sourced aftermarket now AFAIK
Defrost vent/grill on the top of the dash can be replaced OEM or aftermarket
Center dash speaker cover can still be replaced OEM
Not a comprehensive list by any means, but that's the obvious ones that come to my mind. Keep in mind that if an interior trim peice is just discolored, or just has a couple of damaged/missing clips it can generally be repaired if replacement isn't possible.
I very much so appreciate your insight! Thank you!
100% true, the interior is the hardest part, followed by the body/paint and then the engine and the rest of the chassis
:thumbsup:
Originally Posted by Red95FD
Yes the advice here is great These guys have been around. I always look for good original paint and interior and have seen a few higher mileage FD,s have the good paint and interior. Be patient though. Find the good paint and interior.
If I were you, I'd get one of the $300 compression testers. My 95 has numbers in the 120s with 18000 miles. You could use the compression numbers as a bargaining tool for sure and save yourself a ton of money getting a beautiful FD. I went with the vintage red for paint color. It's the only color t hat doesn't have clearcoat. Some other colors go for less, some go for more like any sports car does. Getting the right color may save you some money too if the color doesn't mean that much to you.
Didnt know VR doesnt have clearcoat... While I prefer a white r1, im ok with finding a good shape slicktop (no sunroof)
Perhaps price out an LHD interior using some of the larger part-out threads posted recently.
I recently priced out an RHD interior, except seats, dash shell, gauge cluster set (cluster, face and hood). In total there were 63 pieces and ,even at a deep discount, the total came out to C$4000 (before shipping). The same parts for an LHD interior could be twice as much (even counting LHD/RHD overlapping parts).
Perhaps price out an LHD interior using some of the larger part-out threads posted recently.
I recently priced out an RHD interior, except seats, dash shell, gauge cluster set (cluster, face and hood). In total there were 63 pieces and ,even at a deep discount, the total came out to C$4000 (before shipping). The same parts for an LHD interior could be twice as much (even counting LHD/RHD overlapping parts).
Coming from the mkiv supra world where both door panels can cost up to $4k I keep a keen eye on interiors.
The CYM that didn't sell had a lot going against it.. its in Canada and apparently it was in an accident and the seller didn't address a lot of questions/concerns.
Most current listings on Auto Trader/internet are reaching for the stars in my opinion hence the reason most of them are still for sale. There is a Montego Blue in CT for sale that seems reasonable, I think the listing is on cars.com or something.
Not FD specific, but used car prices are up right now. I've heard from two used car dealers that there's a shortage.
I also suspect there are a lot of people stuck at home doing just what you're doing right now. I've been looking for a diesel truck that's very desirable among enthusiasts, and it's been hell. Things are snatched up before I can even pick up the phone.
I recommend expanding your search to all the relevant online classifieds, checking regularly, and figureing out exactly what you want so you can move quickly.
Use Google earth and search car wreckers, yards within a 100 miles.
I did that for Oahu before I went there on vacation. I saw three FD in one yard.
But when I got there, all the wrecker yards had cleaned out......of everything.
The desk manager of one yard confirmed he had had the three FD.
Where did all the cars go?
( A few Mustangs and Corvettes had been saved.)
Another time, I zoomed in on Google Earth to a friends house in Toronto and Google had caught him standing in front of his house with his RX7. In fact, Google earth shows my car parked on the front lawn of my house. I must have been taking a break from washing it at that moment.
11-18-20, 03:01 PM
Cost of things to come
