I'm new to FD's, just got my first one friday, and it's got a few problems. It smokes (white) heavily on start up and smells like a gallon of gasoline has been poured in the cabin (smells worse on the outside). It is also missing at idle and almost dies everytime I stop. I have to give a little bit of gas and put it in neutral (sorry to say its an auto) to keep it running. When I accelerate it will miss occassionally also. Once I'm up and running at 40+ it seems to run fine. I've read numerous post on the FPD, O2 sensors, etc. and really can't determine where to start. Just looking for advice. Thanks

Car specs:
'93 Touring with 79k miles, no rebuild or overhaul known. Auto w/Hold.
Interior is near mint, exterior needs work.

 

I think white smoke/steam generally indicates coolant, which means the seals might be going. Sounds like a rebuild might be in order.

 

Don't worry about the O2 sensors - they only affect performance at light throttle.

Do not drive it until you find the fuel leak. Remove the intake elbow, throttle body, and UIM. Then jumper the F/P and GND connectors in the little black Diagnosis box that sits b/t the battery and shock tower. Turn the ignition to On and don't crank it - this should get the fuel flowing. The FPD is near the firewall, down low against the block and under the fat part of the wiring harness.

And yes, the white smoke often indicates shot coolant seals. Engine rebuild. Search for the champagne bubble test (search for 'bubble test' since nobody here can spell), and do a coolant leakdown test. The only bugger about the leakdown test is that if you have the stock AST you'll need a special adapter.

Dave

 

i just went through what you are describing. white smoke, car trying to stall, keeping my foot on the accelerator at idle, etc. Start saving for a rebuild because all this is an indication that your motor is tired. good luck!

 

That's what I had anticipated. What does a general rebuild cost? Most of the info I've seen to date is for higher performance applications. If it cost too much then I could take it to Hinson's for a LS1 swap and not have to worry about another rebuild in 60k. Higher up front costs but better reliability, maintainability, and also get added performance benefits.

 

If the one that gets installed is put in with the goal of stock power levels, it will probably last another 80k+ if maintained properly. Cost = $3k minimum. It will cost more if you start replacing the "while you're in there" stuff like injectors, wiring harness, solenoids, etc.

Dave

 

A reman from Malloy Mazda for a little over $2k (with your damaged core sent back to them for the core charge).

or:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...er/prices.html

 

Thanks for the info and helpful advice. Looks like it may sit until it goes to Hinson's.

 

Not bashing the LS-1 swap, but you'd rather spend over $10k to swap in a used engine of unknown reliability/abuse instead of spending less than half of that to get a rebuilt rotary engine? How many miles/year are you planning on driving this car?

 

a ls-1 swap done right with a <20k mile engine tranny swap dosent run over 10,000. However there are a lot of good things to be said about the rotary, and as far as uniqueness there isnt a consumer automotive motor out there that is more unique. Some also argue it destroys the soul of the car?

 

^ Yep, sends the soul straight to hell.

 

Before you start making big plans, find out whats wrong with it! When i first got my FD i was always expecting the worst since i didnt know the engine's condition. If youre not really all that familiar with the car(and it sounds like youre not) then find a reputable rotary mechanic and have them check it out for you. If you find someone experienced with fds its even better! If youre scared your motor might be on its way out, pull the lower spark plug on the 1st rotor and the egi fuse. Have someone crank the motor and listen for 3 even pst sounds. Do the same for the 2nd rotor. If it doesnt sound the same all 3 times then you have a problem(this is kinda like a compression test just without the actual number).

 

no more newbies wanting to change engines. this is getting out of hand. why did you buy a "ROTARY EXPERIMENT 7" if you want an american engine. You guys are killing the car by hybridizing it. It is not a Mustang or Vette. Go get one if that's what you want. Stop killing the 7. I don't give a **** what the ups are. Its not meant to have an American engine in it, Period. Enough said. Soon we are going to have a change this forum to club7pistons.com. I hate hearing this ****. Had to vent, every other thread is "I blew my engine, LS-1 time". It just doesn't seem "cool" to me. Anyone else?

 

wonder what RE Amemiya would say?

 

Wankel just turned over in his grave.

 

Didnt think about this, but sure makes sense...There were what about 15k FDs sold. Out of those, how many have been wrecked, stripped and turned into full race cars or show cars that are never driven on the streets.

Is this conversion reversible???? Has anyone looked into it???

I agree with you sonix7, however he bought it and wether we like it or not he's entitled to do whatever the he wants with it. Think of it this way, one less making ours the more rare!

 

yeah, its his car, but I have to try and stop him. I guess I am rotary retentive. ha. ha. proud of it. zoom, zoom, zoom.

 

True the rotary is quite a unique motor. Wankel was a great engineer who was thinking out of the box. The problem is I drive in excess of 30k a year and NEED reliability and the ability to take anywhere to fix. Hinson's shop is only about 40miles from where I live. The mix of Japanese sports car performance and American Muscle, a.k.a tire roasting torque is a very potent one. I also know a guy that races rx7s in SCCA, he may be able to accurately diagnose my problem before I drop the time and money in a swap.

 

Then buy a Honda Accord/Civic as a daily driver. Buying an FD as a 30k/year car is a little silly IMO. And this is from someone who daily drove their FD for 3-1/2 years....

 

So young, so angry, damn dat rap music!

I agree though man, Rotary is there for a reason, I damn near dropped a gold wankel when I read the last LS1.....

but on the other hand, owning any "tuner car" is more about the love of automotive modifcation in general. just like the guys that drop 13b's in ol' nickel n' dimes (datsun 510's for the non-followers) so, I figure if something is done to be different, or find a new balance, then it's all good!

 

I drive a completely stock fd, I live in Melbourne, Australia. I suppose its a fairly warm climate and my fd has been shooting this white steam out of my exhaust on start up for 2 minutes or so ever since I got it.

Now if the steam dissipates right after it leaves your exhaust (what mine does) I have found it to be completely harmless, however if it stays in the air like smoke does then I would think that it is something more serious.

I have driven my car for 1 year in this condition and it still runs perfectly normal. I would say its nothing to worry about.

 

I'm in the mid-west, and it definitely gets cold here so I'm familiar with the difference btwn water condensation/steam from cold weather and the steam from coolant going through the combustion chamber of an engine. Maybe I assumed too much, but he's located in Alabama, a southern and relatively warm area. And it's late summer and still pretty warm here.

 

Would a malfunctioning FPD possibly be the culprit of the strong fuel smell, missing, and poor acceleration? The smoke doesn't dissipate so it's probably oil or excess fuel. Could this small device cause such heartache?

 

Wow, I will be 31 on Sunday. Thanks for considering me young, I understand what you are saying, just why would you do it with a car that is so rare. Go get a model that is readily available. When these cars are completely gone, no more. Plus if you are putiing 30,000 a year, you need a different car, period. FD not made for that. Our cars are Lemans winning cars, with overall engineering to make it the way it is. You start plugging in different variables and the equation may not come out right. thats just my opinion. Upgrading an existing car to be better, totally different. Re-engineering the car in most cases, fucked. my .02

 

I appreciate the effort. and if I could find a chasis (salvage or untitleable) I'd love to stick it on my CJ-7 frame, why ? ? ? because if it's my car I'd do as I wish.
PS Rx isn't Rotary Experiment.....stands for Rotary Export