So I just got a 93 Limited Edition
So here is problems.
1. maybe the fifth time I opened the door it stopped opening from the inside I'm guessing one of the rods came off of the release on the inside.
2.Also my headlights stick up sometimes but go down others. The last time it happened a small cloud of smoke came out from underneath the hood from the passenger side light. No clue to what it was smelled electrical.
3.The car has no blow off valve and im not sure if that is a problem. It also has a 3" exhaust from header back I think.
4.The windows seem to be sweating they get condensation on the inside when it hasn't rained. It could be from having my heat on when it is cold outside though I have never seen that before. Any comments are well appreciated this is my second rx7. Anything else I should look at?

 

Comments in red.

 

Did they all come with twin turbos this engine is so crammed in here I can only see one of them on the passenger side coming from the downpipe. I am not sure if i've had it in overdrive it is an automatic. He said the transmission has been rebuilt and it seems really smooth. It does not have a boost gauge which is kind of bothering me.

 

Start here:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Once you're done there you'll be able to find the answers all by your lonesome


Good luck, and Merry X-mas!

Tony

 

Whoa that's a book. Thanks Tony that's already answered some of my questions I just hope that cloud of smoke is nothing to worry about I am going to try to take apart everything in that area to see if I can see any exposed wires. God I hope not.
Jeff

 

You need to do a LOT of searching and researching if you are going to maintain this "Limited Edition" Fd.

Good Luck with that



Later

 

All FDs were twin turbo on the stock engines.

There is no such thing as a 'Limited Edition', sorry.

As for wondering if you have had the car in overdrive...I don't want to sound harsh here but you really don't know much about automatic trannies, do you?
On the FD, it is a 4 speed automatic transmission. Essentially 3 forward gears plus overdrive. If you put the car in 'D', it will shift from first to second to third and then go into overdrive. There is also a feature called 'Hold', that is activated by the little button on top of the gear selector. This essentially "holds" it in a gear, referenced by the smaller markings on the selector panel, i.e. if you put the car in 'L' and don't have hold on, it will shift from first to second. If you have hold on, it will stay in first. And so on and do forth.
So do this. Put the car in 'L' and start out and drive it up to 40 mph or so (don't use the 'hold' feature). You will feel the car shift from first to second. Then move the selector to 'S', it will shift into 3rd gear. Then move the selector to 'D' and it will shift into 4th or overdrive. You will also notice that there is almost ANOTHER shift, you will see the RPMs drop a bit, but that is just the torque converter achieving "full lockup".

Also, I was wondering if after you saw the smoke from your headlight area, if the lights worked at all as far as opening and closing?

There are a lot of people that can and will provide you a lot of good information on these Forums. Welcome aboard.

 

i guess you mean turbo back. the turbos latch onto a turbo header and the downpipe bolts right onto the turbo.

and as mentioned above, there is alot of work in maintaining an fd. please dont be lazy and neglect it like most people in the past have.

 

the condensation on your windows may be a result of a leaky heater core does is smell like coolant inside the car?

 

If the heater is on recirculate it will not mix outside air and will fog the windows! Switch off the recirculate button on the dash.

 

I wouldnt be driving it if it has what you describe as smoke from something electrical. I sure you hope you have a fire extinguisher in the car also.

With it being an automatic with full exhaust you can also gaurantee you are hitting about 14-15 psi right now unless you have a faulty sequential system, which in you case you might want it to be messed up. Autos will boost creep horribly with a full exhaust.

Honestly I wouldnt drive the car until you figure out the electrical headlight issue.

David

 

Agreed, you're most definitely boosting more than stock, and if your car wasn't tuned for more than stock boost, you're asking for a bad time. Especially boosting close to 15 psi (if that's the case) Stop driving it now until you can get it tuned.

For your headlights, you could try readjusting the frame and 'centering' it more. Are you saying that it gets caught up on the hood/fender, or it's actually something electrical related? If it's the hood/fender situation, the motor could still be trying to turn, but it's jammed up against something, so it could very well start to smoke/overstress itself.

 

sometimes I wish they made a Twin-Turbo emblem much like the Porsche's and TT Supras

 

People would still ask. The best is if I have a singled fd and out about and someone asks if it is twin turbo. I tell them no, it is singled. Then they walk away disappointed

 

i was going to order a porsche one. ill have to look into the supra ones

 

I usually tell people it has "sequential turbos" meaning that the primary engages first, and then the secondary comes on after 4500 rpms, and then both turbos are engaged. I love telling this to people selling FDs, like salesmen at small dealerships

 

I think the headlight was catching on something because the headlight cover ripped off while I was driving down the interstate. It appears to have broken. I will no boost it until I get a high flow cat put in. I just bought a turbo timer and boost gauge I could not afford a boost controller. The headlights keep sticking in the up position so I thought it was electrical now I think it could have been both. A relay might be sticking causing it to work sometimes and not others. The light cover could have dry rotted causing it to come off. I switched the headlights on at about 70 that was probably also a mistake

 

Did you do any searching at all on this site? A turbo timer is absolutely pointless on these cars. Sell it or cancel the order. You can make your own boost controller for about $15 using Home Depot parts. Can you afford $5k for a new engine?

 

yeah i've done some searching but could you point me in the right direction to make a boost controller?

 

Also, dont waste your time with a boost controller until you remove the boost pills. Generally on an auto with full exhaust a boost controller will not help you even with the pills removed. The only real option is to pull the turbos and port the wastegate with the upgraded garfinkle wastegate door. The autos just have so many downsides to them. Probably why we have sold 2 out of the 70-90fds we have sold over the last couple of years.

 

^ Oh come on now, David....don't perpetrate that old, tired crap about "autos have so many downsides", please. There are a few of us auto owners who PREFER it that way, and are perfectly happy. If you point on negatives then you need to point out the positives too, a few of which are:
Seemless, non-stop boost
No clutch to worry about
Usually the auto cars are in MUCH better shape overall
Much easier to drive in day to day traffic

I can go on....

But for the OP, please, please, PLEASE read all that you can about these cars. Hell, just sit back for a few evening and browse the Forum, do Searches on relevant concerns. There is a WEALTH of info here, use it wisely.

 

where the hell can i find a passenger side headlight cover

 

ebay.

forsale section??

 

Ray @ Malloy Mazda.

 

I dont have any hate for the auto Just much more love for the manual. The first fd I ever purchased was an auto. I know there are a few people out their who enjoy them but they just arent for me. My personal fd started as a manual, I was going to drive it until the engine popped then start my project. I drove it about 20 miles and said enough is enough They are nice in traffic though