New to the FD scene, got big plans, 13b-RE, need adivice on some stuff.(pics)
#26
No more G6
iTrader: (19)
Auxiliary Injection.
It really is all about heat with the rotary.
A piston engine performs best at approx 1320 F pre-turbo EGT while the rotary is happiest at 1600. When you combine the latent rotary heat with a poorly designed (OEM) manifold you get eventual Armageddon.
Additionally, when you combine a rich AFR in a losing effort to cool the beast with the factory external oil pump that sprays crankcase oil on the apex seals you are generating carbon deposits that eventually fill the gaps that allow apex and side seal movement, (half of the motors I disassemble failed due to the effects of over carbonization.)
Auxiliary Injection (AI) can deliver solutions to 3 FD rotary problems two of which are fatal:
Failure due to heat/knock.
Failure due to over carbonization
Top tick dyno HP on PumpGas 24-7
Here’s what’s going on within your turbo’d rotary…
A turbo vastly increases the motor’s ability to make power by doubling, or more, the amount of airflow. When combined with a commensurate amount of fuel up goes the torque and hp, and (CCP) Combustion Chamber Pressure. It isn’t far off the mark to equate CCP with the mechanical compression ratio. So as you up airflow/boost you are upping the compression ratio. Alot.
More air, more HP, more CCP, more heat. Even if your AFR is perfect, your timing is perfect as torque increases so does CCP.
More CCP equals more heat.
Gasoline auto-ignites at 495 degrees F, all gasoline, that includes race gas. Auto-ignites means ignites by itself, without the aid of a spark. If the fuel in the motor ignites at the wrong time bad things happen. Generally it is the the apex seals as they are more fragile than anything in a piston engine.
If you combine the higher rotary heat with the more fragile character the of the apex seals you have a bad situation… all because we are creating more CCP/heat with the turbo.
Fix the heat, you fix the problem.
It really is all about heat with the rotary.
A piston engine performs best at approx 1320 F pre-turbo EGT while the rotary is happiest at 1600. When you combine the latent rotary heat with a poorly designed (OEM) manifold you get eventual Armageddon.
Additionally, when you combine a rich AFR in a losing effort to cool the beast with the factory external oil pump that sprays crankcase oil on the apex seals you are generating carbon deposits that eventually fill the gaps that allow apex and side seal movement, (half of the motors I disassemble failed due to the effects of over carbonization.)
Auxiliary Injection (AI) can deliver solutions to 3 FD rotary problems two of which are fatal:
Failure due to heat/knock.
Failure due to over carbonization
Top tick dyno HP on PumpGas 24-7
Here’s what’s going on within your turbo’d rotary…
A turbo vastly increases the motor’s ability to make power by doubling, or more, the amount of airflow. When combined with a commensurate amount of fuel up goes the torque and hp, and (CCP) Combustion Chamber Pressure. It isn’t far off the mark to equate CCP with the mechanical compression ratio. So as you up airflow/boost you are upping the compression ratio. Alot.
More air, more HP, more CCP, more heat. Even if your AFR is perfect, your timing is perfect as torque increases so does CCP.
More CCP equals more heat.
Gasoline auto-ignites at 495 degrees F, all gasoline, that includes race gas. Auto-ignites means ignites by itself, without the aid of a spark. If the fuel in the motor ignites at the wrong time bad things happen. Generally it is the the apex seals as they are more fragile than anything in a piston engine.
If you combine the higher rotary heat with the more fragile character the of the apex seals you have a bad situation… all because we are creating more CCP/heat with the turbo.
Fix the heat, you fix the problem.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...79&postcount=1
#29
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
If possible, I would run an FD front cover on the engine. This will let you use the FD CAS which is a BILLION times better than the FC/Cosmo stab-it-in CAS. Finding a good used front cover should be cheap and easy. I think I've got 3 in my attic .
Might also be worth swapping to the FD water pump/alternator with the multi-rib belt instead of the FC V belt. Don't know if you're going to run AC or PS.
What EFI system will you be running? Most FD guys run the PowerFC, works great and is very well supported on the FD.
Dale
Might also be worth swapping to the FD water pump/alternator with the multi-rib belt instead of the FC V belt. Don't know if you're going to run AC or PS.
What EFI system will you be running? Most FD guys run the PowerFC, works great and is very well supported on the FD.
Dale
#30
If possible, I would run an FD front cover on the engine. This will let you use the FD CAS which is a BILLION times better than the FC/Cosmo stab-it-in CAS. Finding a good used front cover should be cheap and easy. I think I've got 3 in my attic .
Might also be worth swapping to the FD water pump/alternator with the multi-rib belt instead of the FC V belt. Don't know if you're going to run AC or PS.
What EFI system will you be running? Most FD guys run the PowerFC, works great and is very well supported on the FD.
Dale
Might also be worth swapping to the FD water pump/alternator with the multi-rib belt instead of the FC V belt. Don't know if you're going to run AC or PS.
What EFI system will you be running? Most FD guys run the PowerFC, works great and is very well supported on the FD.
Dale
yea, i plan to semi convert the cosmo to fd short block...
im going to be running the fd pully system, with front cover, PS, oil, fd motor mounts(going to tap the rear iron), waterpump, and fd alt...
^^im getting the above parts from a friend, which just saved me an *** load of trouble lol...
and i already have a PFC, ready to go.
#32
No more G6
iTrader: (19)
I did some reasearch and asked a few peopld. Technically it *would* work...the stock FD ignitor uses a falling edge signal from the ECU to trigger the coils, just like the signal that the LS2 coil needs. But because the PFC only drives the stock coils at 2.5 or so MS, you couldn't get anywhere near the full capability of the LS2 coils which can be driven at 5 MS. There's nowhere in the PowerFC to alter the charge time either...so you're stuck with low output.
#35
^^ lol
soo ive been doing a lot more research,
looks like my BEST options for getting my RE into my fd are
1) tap the rear iron in order to use the fd OEM motor mount brackets..
or
2) use the fc RE motor mounts, and modify them use them on the rear iron.
any one got any more ideas??? or has personally done this?
i will be running the fd oilpan
ive done the research.. just need some little questions answered..
thanks
soo ive been doing a lot more research,
looks like my BEST options for getting my RE into my fd are
1) tap the rear iron in order to use the fd OEM motor mount brackets..
or
2) use the fc RE motor mounts, and modify them use them on the rear iron.
any one got any more ideas??? or has personally done this?
i will be running the fd oilpan
ive done the research.. just need some little questions answered..
thanks
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