New FD owner here with a idle problem.
11-29-08, 07:38 PM
#1
New FD owner here with a idle problem.
So...I purchased an FD from a fellow forum member a few nights ago. The car had been ran out of gas and the original owner could not get it started again. The fuel pump sock and plugs have been cleaned/changed by Icemark and I this morning.
The car started and idled funny during the warmup cycle. Once the engine has reached normal operating temps, it starts to stumble and subsequently dies. I'm hearing a clicking sound coming from one of the solenoids underneath the UIM. I'm not sure which one it is and I didn't really have time to test each one with a 12v power source. Any of you guys have a problem of this sort or similar?
I drove the car around town just to see how smooth the engine ran and it was just fine. In order to keep the car from dying at idle, we bumped the idle up to roughly 1500-1700 rpms.
It also seems to have a hotstart problem and I'm assuming it has to do with the faulty solenoid under the UIM.
This is my first FD and all my experience has been with TII's so any insight would be greatly appreciated.
The car started and idled funny during the warmup cycle. Once the engine has reached normal operating temps, it starts to stumble and subsequently dies. I'm hearing a clicking sound coming from one of the solenoids underneath the UIM. I'm not sure which one it is and I didn't really have time to test each one with a 12v power source. Any of you guys have a problem of this sort or similar?
I drove the car around town just to see how smooth the engine ran and it was just fine. In order to keep the car from dying at idle, we bumped the idle up to roughly 1500-1700 rpms.
It also seems to have a hotstart problem and I'm assuming it has to do with the faulty solenoid under the UIM.
This is my first FD and all my experience has been with TII's so any insight would be greatly appreciated.
11-30-08, 10:00 AM
#2
IIRC if you let the tank go down to empty. Soot and debris from the bottom of the gas tank gets sucked through the filter causing it to clog.
Which is why you're getting the intermittent dying thing.
I would lean towards a bad filter now and just change it.
Which is why you're getting the intermittent dying thing.
I would lean towards a bad filter now and just change it.
11-30-08, 01:52 PM
#5
ahh power FC and idle problems. Start searching through the PFC forum. It's the most common problem with the PFC and there are multiple causes. Assuming there are no mechanical problems (vacuum leaks, clogged fuel filter), the first thing you need to do is check and make sure the previous owner cut/depinned the wires mentioned in the PFC installation manual, available on the Apex'i website. Then you need to adjust the idle screw under the TB elbow. Tighten it all the way and then back it off about 1/4 - 1/2 turn or so.
Then perform the idle learn procedure in the PFC manual. Do NOT turn off O2 feedback since you still have a cat and airpump.
Then perform the idle learn procedure in the PFC manual. Do NOT turn off O2 feedback since you still have a cat and airpump.
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11-30-08, 03:05 PM
#8
^ if the idle is really low it could be a bunch of things... turning that particular screw (air adjust screw is what they call it) could make it worse in your case. turning the air adjust screw is mostly to fix idle sticking and surging, one of the common PFC problem. When it comes to idle tuning (and any tuning really) it's easy to make the car run worse before it runs better. You may want to seek a professional.
Otherwise, a low idle could be a bunch of things. Sometimes it is just a bad AFR tune. Sometimes the other screws on the TB are misadjusted. Sometimes the hot wax cold idle system isn't working. Sometimes the ISC is stuck or otherwise failed... it can be very difficult to set the idle right under all conditions without solid knowledge of the PFC, a datalogit, a wideband, and just trial-and-error. I've spent many, many hours fiddling with the idle on my friend's FD with PFC and on my own FC with PFC. They both idle solidly at 850 now but it took all sorts of adjustments in the PFC fuel maps as well as throttlebody adjustments.
chuck westbrook (cewrx7r1) has a lengthy writeup on setting the PFC idle if you buy his Power FC notes. PM him about it.
Otherwise, a low idle could be a bunch of things. Sometimes it is just a bad AFR tune. Sometimes the other screws on the TB are misadjusted. Sometimes the hot wax cold idle system isn't working. Sometimes the ISC is stuck or otherwise failed... it can be very difficult to set the idle right under all conditions without solid knowledge of the PFC, a datalogit, a wideband, and just trial-and-error. I've spent many, many hours fiddling with the idle on my friend's FD with PFC and on my own FC with PFC. They both idle solidly at 850 now but it took all sorts of adjustments in the PFC fuel maps as well as throttlebody adjustments.
chuck westbrook (cewrx7r1) has a lengthy writeup on setting the PFC idle if you buy his Power FC notes. PM him about it.
Last edited by arghx; 11-30-08 at 03:07 PM.
11-30-08, 05:53 PM
#11
i have a wideband, but i have no money for a datalogit. it doesnt need to be done perfectly. im going to do this anyway i just need a few tips. i think i just need to tune the fuel map because my AFR is between 10 (or below) and 11. my car had tons of vacuum leaks when i bought it and i went up 2500 ft. so its alot richer than what its supposed to be.
Last edited by Rdodds033; 11-30-08 at 05:57 PM.
11-30-08, 11:42 PM
#16
yeah i should check it again. wheni checked it before it didnt run for about a week or so. i was checking the plugs and they were fouled so i checked the compression while i was at it. agter reading that i realised i did it almost completly wrong. but at least i know my apex seals are still good. 
Last edited by Rdodds033; 11-30-08 at 11:45 PM.
12-01-08, 07:43 AM
#17
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I am pretty sure power fc bypasses this but there is a switch behind your clutch that tells the computer when its in and when its out. Mine went and the idle was iradic and died constantly
12-02-08, 02:45 AM
#18
Well, the engine just let go on me a few hours ago. Fortunately it died about a mile from my house so it wasn't too bad of a push. 
I'm assuming that the shitty idle was due to a chipped apex seal seeing as how the compression wasn't up to par on one of the faces of the rear rotor. So...Now the engine freespins
ZING!
Another block is in the works as I type this so I should be in good shape again in a matter of weeks.
I'm assuming that the shitty idle was due to a chipped apex seal seeing as how the compression wasn't up to par on one of the faces of the rear rotor. So...Now the engine freespins
ZING!Another block is in the works as I type this so I should be in good shape again in a matter of weeks.
12-02-08, 09:16 AM
#19
Well, the engine just let go on me a few hours ago. Fortunately it died about a mile from my house so it wasn't too bad of a push.
I'm assuming that the shitty idle was due to a chipped apex seal seeing as how the compression wasn't up to par on one of the faces of the rear rotor. So...Now the engine freespins ZING!
Another block is in the works as I type this so I should be in good shape again in a matter of weeks.
I'm assuming that the shitty idle was due to a chipped apex seal seeing as how the compression wasn't up to par on one of the faces of the rear rotor. So...Now the engine freespins
ZING!Another block is in the works as I type this so I should be in good shape again in a matter of weeks.
12-02-08, 10:48 AM
#22
Told ya so. 
Good luck with the new engine. There are a couple of things I think you should do while the new block is out that are different from an FC.
You might:
-check the clutch release fork or replace it
-re-seal the oil pan with no gasket and permatex right stuff (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/mythbusters-time-oil-pan-motor-mounts-488739/)
-swap in a metal (available on some rotary specialty sites) front cover gasket
Like the FC, the FD has a weak FPD, but you can't banjo bolt it. I just replaced mine new along with the recall kit for the fuel lines.
Good luck with the new engine. There are a couple of things I think you should do while the new block is out that are different from an FC.
You might:
-check the clutch release fork or replace it
-re-seal the oil pan with no gasket and permatex right stuff (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/mythbusters-time-oil-pan-motor-mounts-488739/)
-swap in a metal (available on some rotary specialty sites) front cover gasket
Like the FC, the FD has a weak FPD, but you can't banjo bolt it. I just replaced mine new along with the recall kit for the fuel lines.
