New to the FD, Looking for some insight
04-25-11, 08:22 AM
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New to the FD, Looking for some insight
I have a few questions that I would very much like answered
The first time I rode in an FD, I was surprised by how abrupt the transition to the second turbo was. Is there anyway to smooth the transition or possibly make it seamless? (The car in question had 99 spec turbos, two separate foam element air filters, a cat-less down-pipe, racing beat cat-back, and an Apexi Power FC. It was tuned at KDR)
Also, the car would spike from 13psi to 15psi after the second turbo was engaged, what causes this, how do you fix/prevent this, and is it a serious issue?
This is a question that I can't find the answer to anywhere, how I get the alignment specs I desire. I want zero camber and zero toe in the rear, upwards of 8 degrees of caster, and -3 degrees of camber up front (more if I can get it).
I know these specs are outside of what the FD is capable of from the factory, so how should I go about achieving them (What modifications, tricks of the trade, etc)? The suspension design is very different on this car from what I am used to.
Any and all information is more than welcome
The first time I rode in an FD, I was surprised by how abrupt the transition to the second turbo was. Is there anyway to smooth the transition or possibly make it seamless? (The car in question had 99 spec turbos, two separate foam element air filters, a cat-less down-pipe, racing beat cat-back, and an Apexi Power FC. It was tuned at KDR)
Also, the car would spike from 13psi to 15psi after the second turbo was engaged, what causes this, how do you fix/prevent this, and is it a serious issue?
This is a question that I can't find the answer to anywhere, how I get the alignment specs I desire. I want zero camber and zero toe in the rear, upwards of 8 degrees of caster, and -3 degrees of camber up front (more if I can get it).
I know these specs are outside of what the FD is capable of from the factory, so how should I go about achieving them (What modifications, tricks of the trade, etc)? The suspension design is very different on this car from what I am used to.
Any and all information is more than welcome
04-25-11, 09:36 AM
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I have a few questions that I would very much like answered
The first time I rode in an FD, I was surprised by how abrupt the transition to the second turbo was. Is there anyway to smooth the transition or possibly make it seamless? (The car in question had 99 spec turbos, two separate foam element air filters, a cat-less down-pipe, racing beat cat-back, and an Apexi Power FC. It was tuned at KDR)
Also, the car would spike from 13psi to 15psi after the second turbo was engaged, what causes this, how do you fix/prevent this, and is it a serious issue?
This is a question that I can't find the answer to anywhere, how I get the alignment specs I desire. I want zero camber and zero toe in the rear, upwards of 8 degrees of caster, and -3 degrees of camber up front (more if I can get it).
I know these specs are outside of what the FD is capable of from the factory, so how should I go about achieving them (What modifications, tricks of the trade, etc)? The suspension design is very different on this car from what I am used to.
Any and all information is more than welcome
The first time I rode in an FD, I was surprised by how abrupt the transition to the second turbo was. Is there anyway to smooth the transition or possibly make it seamless? (The car in question had 99 spec turbos, two separate foam element air filters, a cat-less down-pipe, racing beat cat-back, and an Apexi Power FC. It was tuned at KDR)
Also, the car would spike from 13psi to 15psi after the second turbo was engaged, what causes this, how do you fix/prevent this, and is it a serious issue?
This is a question that I can't find the answer to anywhere, how I get the alignment specs I desire. I want zero camber and zero toe in the rear, upwards of 8 degrees of caster, and -3 degrees of camber up front (more if I can get it).
I know these specs are outside of what the FD is capable of from the factory, so how should I go about achieving them (What modifications, tricks of the trade, etc)? The suspension design is very different on this car from what I am used to.
Any and all information is more than welcome
1. The transition only works in one way, there's really nothing to make it smoother, unless the car you rode in had bad solenoids that would stick causing a sloppy transition. The other option is to go non-sequential to eliminate the transition completely.
2. Search for boost spikes and you'll get all the information you want
3. Don't know, you might want to try asking in the suspensions specific forum
04-25-11, 10:05 AM
#3
Just to reiterate what was just said:
The stock sequential system's boost pattern is as follows 10-8-10. There is nothing you can do about it unless you go nonsequential the downside is that nonseq is nowhere near as responsive as seq.
boost spikes: what is your boost set at? and do you have an electronic boost controller. The reason I ask is because as I went up in boost, spikes began to appear and the higher I went the harder they were to control. For example, at 12 psi my boost pattern was 12-10-12 with a boost spike of 13 right after the secondary kicked in. Originally that spike was to 15 but I controlled it via my boost controller.
The stock sequential system's boost pattern is as follows 10-8-10. There is nothing you can do about it unless you go nonsequential the downside is that nonseq is nowhere near as responsive as seq.
boost spikes: what is your boost set at? and do you have an electronic boost controller. The reason I ask is because as I went up in boost, spikes began to appear and the higher I went the harder they were to control. For example, at 12 psi my boost pattern was 12-10-12 with a boost spike of 13 right after the secondary kicked in. Originally that spike was to 15 but I controlled it via my boost controller.
04-25-11, 10:17 AM
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First off... Bravo on the correct usage of "an" (an FD) and constructing your questions in an understandable manner 
Second off, when the car transitions to the secondary turbo, and you spike from 13psi to 15psi, is the increased boost maintained, or does it simply spike to 15psi then return to 13psi for the remainder of the rpms?
If you're seeing 13psi on your primary turbo and 15psi on you secondary than it is very likely to be attributed to solenoids functioning incorrectly. I had the same problem for years (~12-13psi primary and 16-18psi secondary boost) and only fixed it by replacing the solenoids. Unfortunately the corner of an apex seal let go shortly afterwards, leading to a rebuild and single turbo conversion
.... 
Second off, when the car transitions to the secondary turbo, and you spike from 13psi to 15psi, is the increased boost maintained, or does it simply spike to 15psi then return to 13psi for the remainder of the rpms?
If you're seeing 13psi on your primary turbo and 15psi on you secondary than it is very likely to be attributed to solenoids functioning incorrectly. I had the same problem for years (~12-13psi primary and 16-18psi secondary boost) and only fixed it by replacing the solenoids. Unfortunately the corner of an apex seal let go shortly afterwards, leading to a rebuild and single turbo conversion
....
.
04-25-11, 11:03 AM
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1. The transition only works in one way, there's really nothing to make it smoother, unless the car you rode in had bad solenoids that would stick causing a sloppy transition. The other option is to go non-sequential to eliminate the transition completely.
2. Search for boost spikes and you'll get all the information you want
3. Don't know, you might want to try asking in the suspensions specific forum
2. Search for boost spikes and you'll get all the information you want
3. Don't know, you might want to try asking in the suspensions specific forum
I've tried posting in some threads on the suspension forum, but I guess I could start a new thread there.
04-25-11, 11:06 AM
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Just to reiterate what was just said:
The stock sequential system's boost pattern is as follows 10-8-10. There is nothing you can do about it unless you go nonsequential the downside is that nonseq is nowhere near as responsive as seq.
boost spikes: what is your boost set at? and do you have an electronic boost controller. The reason I ask is because as I went up in boost, spikes began to appear and the higher I went the harder they were to control. For example, at 12 psi my boost pattern was 12-10-12 with a boost spike of 13 right after the secondary kicked in. Originally that spike was to 15 but I controlled it via my boost controller.
The stock sequential system's boost pattern is as follows 10-8-10. There is nothing you can do about it unless you go nonsequential the downside is that nonseq is nowhere near as responsive as seq.
boost spikes: what is your boost set at? and do you have an electronic boost controller. The reason I ask is because as I went up in boost, spikes began to appear and the higher I went the harder they were to control. For example, at 12 psi my boost pattern was 12-10-12 with a boost spike of 13 right after the secondary kicked in. Originally that spike was to 15 but I controlled it via my boost controller.
The car has an Apexi Power FC, but I'm a bit afraid to fiddle with it. I guess I need to do some research on how to operate it correctly. If anyone can point me in the right direction feel free.
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04-25-11, 11:13 AM
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First off... Bravo on the correct usage of "an" (an FD) and constructing your questions in an understandable manner
Second off, when the car transitions to the secondary turbo, and you spike from 13psi to 15psi, is the increased boost maintained, or does it simply spike to 15psi then return to 13psi for the remainder of the rpms?
If you're seeing 13psi on your primary turbo and 15psi on you secondary than it is very likely to be attributed to solenoids functioning incorrectly. I had the same problem for years (~12-13psi primary and 16-18psi secondary boost) and only fixed it by replacing the solenoids. Unfortunately the corner of an apex seal let go shortly afterwards, leading to a rebuild and single turbo conversion....
Second off, when the car transitions to the secondary turbo, and you spike from 13psi to 15psi, is the increased boost maintained, or does it simply spike to 15psi then return to 13psi for the remainder of the rpms?
If you're seeing 13psi on your primary turbo and 15psi on you secondary than it is very likely to be attributed to solenoids functioning incorrectly. I had the same problem for years (~12-13psi primary and 16-18psi secondary boost) and only fixed it by replacing the solenoids. Unfortunately the corner of an apex seal let go shortly afterwards, leading to a rebuild and single turbo conversion
.... The car is tuned for 10psi on the primary and 13psi on the secondary, but it spikes to 15psi after the secondary is engaged. It returns to 13psi after the spike for the remainder of the rpms, but I still feel that it is not good for that to be happening, and I would like to prevent it.
Does that last comment imply that you've gone for a single conversion, if so how do you like it (upsides, downsides, etc)?
04-25-11, 11:23 AM
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In all truth your best bet will be to go single if you don't like the sequential setup and you're looking for linear power. Going non-sequential is just a cheap way of imitating a single setup (done for engine bay simplicity and linear power) with none of the actual perks of going single (significantly higher power at lower boost with less engine bay heat).
04-25-11, 11:44 AM
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First off thanks for the compliments, and sorry it took me until my third post to figure out how to use multi-quote.
The car is tuned for 10psi on the primary and 13psi on the secondary, but it spikes to 15psi after the secondary is engaged. It returns to 13psi after the spike for the remainder of the rpms, but I still feel that it is not good for that to be happening, and I would like to prevent it.
8 degrees of caster, -3 degrees of camber (up front). Zero camber, and zero toe (out back).
Does that last comment imply that you've gone for a single conversion, if so how do you like it (upsides, downsides, etc)?
The car is tuned for 10psi on the primary and 13psi on the secondary, but it spikes to 15psi after the secondary is engaged. It returns to 13psi after the spike for the remainder of the rpms, but I still feel that it is not good for that to be happening, and I would like to prevent it.
8 degrees of caster, -3 degrees of camber (up front). Zero camber, and zero toe (out back).
Does that last comment imply that you've gone for a single conversion, if so how do you like it (upsides, downsides, etc)?
04-25-11, 11:47 AM
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It's kinda rare that we get a newb who can actually contruct questions A) in an intelligent manner, and B) that haven't been asked a million times. (Surprisingly, a little bit of forum research and proper grammar will go a LOOONNNGGGG way on here!)
The car is tuned for 10psi on the primary and 13psi on the secondary, but it spikes to 15psi after the secondary is engaged. It returns to 13psi after the spike for the remainder of the rpms, but I still feel that it is not good for that to be happening, and I would like to prevent it.
Initially I had that same problem while I was living in England, the shop there told me I had a lazy (bad) primary turbo and would need new ones. I bought a set of BNR Stage 3 sequential turbos, hoping this would fix the problem, and a ton of supportive mods. When all was said and done I had a very well supported setup with the same original problem, just now my problem was at a higher psi
. Eventually the problem got worse and worse until I finally came across an awesome solenoid set.I'd suggest running a quick search on how to test the solenoids, it could/should help a LOT in diagnosing the problem which is causing your difference in boost pressure from primary to secondary turbos.
Does that last comment imply that you've gone for a single conversion, if so how do you like it (upsides, downsides, etc)?
What you'll find a lot of times is that there are really only two downsides to going single:
The cost (to do it right ain't cheap, ESPECIALLY if you don't have the supporting mods already)
An increase in lag/decrease in response.
The awesome thing about the sequential twins is that you've got near instantaneous response! (I would regularly beat the snot out of TVR's in England, I ran neck and neck with a (supposedly) 400whp single turbo FD (until I jacked up a shift and fell behind), and even crept ahead of a Ferarri 456M when my FD was running ~350whp on sequential twins)
The pro's of having a single are:
Linear powerband
More power gained much easier (I made 370whp at 18psi with my twins, I'm making 369whp at 13psi on my single... and that's with a safe break-in tune)
Cleaner engine bay (that "rats nest" under the UIM goes away)
Less weight (the stock exhaust manifold and twins are ******* HEAVY!)
Less heat
I'm sure somebody else will chime in on my pro's/con's.. it is, by no means, an exclusive or complete list, lol.
Last edited by fendamonky; 04-25-11 at 11:50 AM.
04-26-11, 11:07 PM
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You can't make the twins non-sequential without making mechanical changes to your engine, the turbo's, and the actuation systems.
In all truth your best bet will be to go single if you don't like the sequential setup and you're looking for linear power. Going non-sequential is just a cheap way of imitating a single setup (done for engine bay simplicity and linear power) with none of the actual perks of going single (significantly higher power at lower boost with less engine bay heat).
If you've not seen the PFC Subforum (https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47) yet than it would be a good place to start! To truly tweak your PFC by yourself you'll need a Datalogit (can be purchased at www.rx7.com) and an old laptop. There is also a Yahoo! group for PFC tuning, the forum user arghx is the recent owner of the group. Both him and DaleClark are incredibly knowledgeable when it comes to self-tuning.
In all truth your best bet will be to go single if you don't like the sequential setup and you're looking for linear power. Going non-sequential is just a cheap way of imitating a single setup (done for engine bay simplicity and linear power) with none of the actual perks of going single (significantly higher power at lower boost with less engine bay heat).
If you've not seen the PFC Subforum (https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47) yet than it would be a good place to start! To truly tweak your PFC by yourself you'll need a Datalogit (can be purchased at www.rx7.com) and an old laptop. There is also a Yahoo! group for PFC tuning, the forum user arghx is the recent owner of the group. Both him and DaleClark are incredibly knowledgeable when it comes to self-tuning.
Hmm, the 10psi primary and 13psi secondary problem sounds a lot like a solenoid issue. I highly doubt somebody purposely tuned it that way, rather they failed to fix the problem causing the lower primary boost and just tuned the car anyway.
Initially I had that same problem while I was living in England, the shop there told me I had a lazy (bad) primary turbo and would need new ones. I bought a set of BNR Stage 3 sequential turbos, hoping this would fix the problem, and a ton of supportive mods. When all was said and done I had a very well supported setup with the same original problem, just now my problem was at a higher psi. Eventually the problem got worse and worse until I finally came across an awesome solenoid set.
I'd suggest running a quick search on how to test the solenoids, it could/should help a LOT in diagnosing the problem which is causing your difference in boost pressure from primary to secondary turbos.
Initially I had that same problem while I was living in England, the shop there told me I had a lazy (bad) primary turbo and would need new ones. I bought a set of BNR Stage 3 sequential turbos, hoping this would fix the problem, and a ton of supportive mods. When all was said and done I had a very well supported setup with the same original problem, just now my problem was at a higher psi
. Eventually the problem got worse and worse until I finally came across an awesome solenoid set.I'd suggest running a quick search on how to test the solenoids, it could/should help a LOT in diagnosing the problem which is causing your difference in boost pressure from primary to secondary turbos.
I know this question wasn't directed towards me, however I did recently (January) get my car back after a rebuild and single turbo upgrade. Unfortunately I only had my FD for about 14 hours (over a two day period) before storing it prior to deploying.
What you'll find a lot of times is that there are really only two downsides to going single:
The cost (to do it right ain't cheap, ESPECIALLY if you don't have the supporting mods already)
An increase in lag/decrease in response.
The awesome thing about the sequential twins is that you've got near instantaneous response! (I would regularly beat the snot out of TVR's in England, I ran neck and neck with a (supposedly) 400whp single turbo FD (until I jacked up a shift and fell behind), and even crept ahead of a Ferarri 456M when my FD was running ~350whp on sequential twins)
The pro's of having a single are:
Linear powerband
More power gained much easier (I made 370whp at 18psi with my twins, I'm making 369whp at 13psi on my single... and that's with a safe break-in tune)
Cleaner engine bay (that "rats nest" under the UIM goes away)
Less weight (the stock exhaust manifold and twins are ******* HEAVY!)
Less heat
I'm sure somebody else will chime in on my pro's/con's.. it is, by no means, an exclusive or complete list, lol.
What you'll find a lot of times is that there are really only two downsides to going single:
The cost (to do it right ain't cheap, ESPECIALLY if you don't have the supporting mods already)
An increase in lag/decrease in response.
The awesome thing about the sequential twins is that you've got near instantaneous response! (I would regularly beat the snot out of TVR's in England, I ran neck and neck with a (supposedly) 400whp single turbo FD (until I jacked up a shift and fell behind), and even crept ahead of a Ferarri 456M when my FD was running ~350whp on sequential twins)
The pro's of having a single are:
Linear powerband
More power gained much easier (I made 370whp at 18psi with my twins, I'm making 369whp at 13psi on my single... and that's with a safe break-in tune)
Cleaner engine bay (that "rats nest" under the UIM goes away)
Less weight (the stock exhaust manifold and twins are ******* HEAVY!)
Less heat
I'm sure somebody else will chime in on my pro's/con's.. it is, by no means, an exclusive or complete list, lol.
Thanks again for all the help
Last edited by KJK; 04-26-11 at 11:11 PM.
04-27-11, 09:55 AM
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I didn't initially realize your mention about being deployed. Hope your back enjoying your FD soon.
04-27-11, 10:18 AM
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He ended up with the A-Spec PT6265, which is basically just a Precision 6265 rebranded. Its a nice medium sized turbo with great spool and decent high end power. I've been looking into that same turbo for awhile now for when I do the single conversion.
04-27-11, 12:49 PM
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There are some REALLY smart cats running around on here, check in the Single Turbo section (https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/) for LOADS of info when it comes to single set-ups
I didn't initially realize your mention about being deployed. Hope your back enjoying your FD soon.
Though Precision hasn't released any flow charts, the 6265 is running in the same range as the GT35 series. The perk of having a 6265 is that, since it's a billet turbo, it's meant to be a much better performer at higher psi levels. I think of it in the same way that the BNR Stage 3 twin turbo's produce roughly the same power/response as stock/99-spec twins below 15psi, but keep on chugging as you push the boost up higher.
04-28-11, 10:27 AM
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In all honesty, I prefered going with a pre-packaged kit since it was my first single. That way I didn't have to go through the hassle of fabbing up the piping, doing the ceramic coating, and sourcing the extra bits that go with a single conversion. Now that I've got the manifold, downpipe, wastegate, etc., it will be a simple matter of swapping out one T4 turbo for another if/when I choose to upgrade or change turbos.
Though Precision hasn't released any flow charts, the 6265 is running in the same range as the GT35 series. The perk of having a 6265 is that, since it's a billet turbo, it's meant to be a much better performer at higher psi levels. I think of it in the same way that the BNR Stage 3 twin turbo's produce roughly the same power/response as stock/99-spec twins below 15psi, but keep on chugging as you push the boost up higher.
Though Precision hasn't released any flow charts, the 6265 is running in the same range as the GT35 series. The perk of having a 6265 is that, since it's a billet turbo, it's meant to be a much better performer at higher psi levels. I think of it in the same way that the BNR Stage 3 twin turbo's produce roughly the same power/response as stock/99-spec twins below 15psi, but keep on chugging as you push the boost up higher.
I am actually picking up my first FD today, so I will drive it for a bit to better understand the car and what I may or may not want out of it. I definitely plan on getting familiar with the PFC and just learning about the car in general. If you or anyone else has any advice for a new FD owner I'd definitely like to hear it.
I do know what I want suspension wise, so if anyone has any advice on getting over 8 degrees of caster, -3 degrees of camber up front, or zeroing out rear camber on a (reasonably) lowered FD I'm all ears
04-28-11, 10:52 AM
#17
If we had Datalogit logs from your Power FC we could examine the behavior of the solenoids and boost control system. Although the sequential system is complex, it is possible that the spike could be mitigated with a few simple adjustments of the boost controller, or an adjustment of the turbo transition RPM. The Datalogit will allow you to log the boost control solenoid duty cycles (precontrol and wastegate solenoids) as well as the behavior of the charge control and turbo control solenoids.
see my thread on the Power FC commander:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-make-your-untuned-pfc-basemap-safer-idle-better-no-datalogit-needed-841706/
and see my thread on the sequential turbo system:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-1-sequential-turbos-demystified-841821/
A single turbo FD is a different driving experience. If you want to go that route make sure you have enough money to do it right.
see my thread on the Power FC commander:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-make-your-untuned-pfc-basemap-safer-idle-better-no-datalogit-needed-841706/
and see my thread on the sequential turbo system:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-1-sequential-turbos-demystified-841821/
A single turbo FD is a different driving experience. If you want to go that route make sure you have enough money to do it right.
04-28-11, 12:31 PM
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Personally I will NEVER give another cent to rx7store. I had a HORRIBLE experience with them in 2007-2008 where I was repeatedly lied to by the staff, given wrong items, and experienced generally terrible customer service. All while dropping over $8k on them. Not to mention that a lot of the stuff they have is pretty misleading (and actually knock off/e-bay brand items).
Never. Again...
Also, before considering going single you my want to actually ride in, or drive, a single turbo FD so you can get a feeling for if you like it or not.
04-29-11, 08:13 AM
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If we had Datalogit logs from your Power FC we could examine the behavior of the solenoids and boost control system. Although the sequential system is complex, it is possible that the spike could be mitigated with a few simple adjustments of the boost controller, or an adjustment of the turbo transition RPM. The Datalogit will allow you to log the boost control solenoid duty cycles (precontrol and wastegate solenoids) as well as the behavior of the charge control and turbo control solenoids.
see my thread on the Power FC commander:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=841706
and see my thread on the sequential turbo system:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=841821
A single turbo FD is a different driving experience. If you want to go that route make sure you have enough money to do it right.
see my thread on the Power FC commander:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=841706
and see my thread on the sequential turbo system:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=841821
A single turbo FD is a different driving experience. If you want to go that route make sure you have enough money to do it right.
I understand that a single turbo FD would be a very different driving experience, and I don't plan on making a modification of that magnitude yet. I was just interested in the differences between the two, because as it is, the car has a very different power delivery from anything I've ever driven before.
I could definitely send you/post up a datalogit log from the Power FC, I have just been incredibly busy as of late. Between work, moving into a new house, buying a new car, and selling the old one, it's very hectic.
I am hoping that by the end of next week I will have time to sit down and really read up on the Power FC, because as it stands, I know next to nothing about the system. I have an endless amount of questions, and I know the answers are out there, it's just a matter of me finding them.
I'm not sure if this is worth mentioning, but I'm almost positive that my FD has only one cat, and it is a "high-flow" cat. I've read that with very little back pressure the boost can be hard to control. It has a Racing Beat cat-back, which as I understand it, is a somewhat conservative exhaust for our cars, so I don't know if this is relevant to the boost spikes, but I thought I might as well mention it.
There are much better options for single kits. Turblown and A-Spec are two guys/businesses on here that focus on turbo's and do an awesome job of it!
Personally I will NEVER give another cent to rx7store. I had a HORRIBLE experience with them in 2007-2008 where I was repeatedly lied to by the staff, given wrong items, and experienced generally terrible customer service. All while dropping over $8k on them. Not to mention that a lot of the stuff they have is pretty misleading (and actually knock off/e-bay brand items).
Never. Again...
Also, before considering going single you my want to actually ride in, or drive, a single turbo FD so you can get a feeling for if you like it or not.
Personally I will NEVER give another cent to rx7store. I had a HORRIBLE experience with them in 2007-2008 where I was repeatedly lied to by the staff, given wrong items, and experienced generally terrible customer service. All while dropping over $8k on them. Not to mention that a lot of the stuff they have is pretty misleading (and actually knock off/e-bay brand items).
Never. Again...
Also, before considering going single you my want to actually ride in, or drive, a single turbo FD so you can get a feeling for if you like it or not.
And yes I would definitely drive, or at the very least ride in a single turbo FD before taking the plunge. But as I mentioned above, I want to drive my FD as it is for now before I decide to make any drastic modifications.
I will work on getting a datalogit log up here as soon as possible so you and others can have a better idea of what's going on exactly.
Last edited by KJK; 04-29-11 at 08:15 AM.
04-29-11, 09:33 AM
#20
If the sequential system is actually working I would recommend keeping it until something goes wrong. There is not another driving experience like a 300+ rwhp sequential fd for fun on the street.
David
04-29-11, 10:23 AM
#21
The two threads I linked to are archived.
with an RB catback and a high flow cat, most likely you have enough exhaust restriction that the boost can indeed be kept under control provided that the boost controller is set properly. Honestly there is a good chance you could fix the boost spike in 10 minutes with the Commander. You would be doing it blindly, without logging, so that's not exactly a maneuver for the inexperienced.
I have made these changes before, especially with changing the rpm at which primary-turbo-only operation resumes. I'm pretty sure I discussed how turbo transition logic works in the big thread on sequential turbos that I linked to.
with an RB catback and a high flow cat, most likely you have enough exhaust restriction that the boost can indeed be kept under control provided that the boost controller is set properly. Honestly there is a good chance you could fix the boost spike in 10 minutes with the Commander. You would be doing it blindly, without logging, so that's not exactly a maneuver for the inexperienced.
I have made these changes before, especially with changing the rpm at which primary-turbo-only operation resumes. I'm pretty sure I discussed how turbo transition logic works in the big thread on sequential turbos that I linked to.
04-29-11, 11:53 AM
#22
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There is a thread over in the Single Turbo section containing the following document: http://www.catenet.net/rx7_tuning.pdf
I have found this to be an excellent starting point at where you are headed and what to expect / plan for. The document relates to PFC tuning for a single turbo setup (which I have zero experience with but other forum members found the information useful) but begins with a quick and dirty run-down of parts to include in a single turbo build other than the turbo kit itself.
I take zero credit for any of this, just think it could be useful for you.
I have found this to be an excellent starting point at where you are headed and what to expect / plan for. The document relates to PFC tuning for a single turbo setup (which I have zero experience with but other forum members found the information useful) but begins with a quick and dirty run-down of parts to include in a single turbo build other than the turbo kit itself.
I take zero credit for any of this, just think it could be useful for you.
04-29-11, 02:46 PM
#23
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I agree with djseven about the sequential set-up. I had about 300whp on my old car with properly functioning twins and loved it. Now I have a GT35R and after driving an FD with the stock set-up I kinda miss it.
04-29-11, 02:48 PM
#24
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I know DaleClark here on the forum lowered the RPM in which his turbos transitioned to make it much smoother. Pretty sure you need the dataloggit though.
If the sequential system is actually working I would recommend keeping it until something goes wrong. There is not another driving experience like a 300+ rwhp sequential fd for fun on the street.
David
If the sequential system is actually working I would recommend keeping it until something goes wrong. There is not another driving experience like a 300+ rwhp sequential fd for fun on the street.
David
The two threads I linked to are archived.
with an RB catback and a high flow cat, most likely you have enough exhaust restriction that the boost can indeed be kept under control provided that the boost controller is set properly. Honestly there is a good chance you could fix the boost spike in 10 minutes with the Commander. You would be doing it blindly, without logging, so that's not exactly a maneuver for the inexperienced.
I have made these changes before, especially with changing the rpm at which primary-turbo-only operation resumes. I'm pretty sure I discussed how turbo transition logic works in the big thread on sequential turbos that I linked to.
with an RB catback and a high flow cat, most likely you have enough exhaust restriction that the boost can indeed be kept under control provided that the boost controller is set properly. Honestly there is a good chance you could fix the boost spike in 10 minutes with the Commander. You would be doing it blindly, without logging, so that's not exactly a maneuver for the inexperienced.
I have made these changes before, especially with changing the rpm at which primary-turbo-only operation resumes. I'm pretty sure I discussed how turbo transition logic works in the big thread on sequential turbos that I linked to.
There is a thread over in the Single Turbo section containing the following document: http://www.catenet.net/rx7_tuning.pdf
I have found this to be an excellent starting point at where you are headed and what to expect / plan for. The document relates to PFC tuning for a single turbo setup (which I have zero experience with but other forum members found the information useful) but begins with a quick and dirty run-down of parts to include in a single turbo build other than the turbo kit itself.
I take zero credit for any of this, just think it could be useful for you.
I have found this to be an excellent starting point at where you are headed and what to expect / plan for. The document relates to PFC tuning for a single turbo setup (which I have zero experience with but other forum members found the information useful) but begins with a quick and dirty run-down of parts to include in a single turbo build other than the turbo kit itself.
I take zero credit for any of this, just think it could be useful for you.
04-29-11, 03:39 PM
#25
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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I don't miss the stock cluster one bit - my non-sequential set-up is ultra smooth, with full boost at 3400 - thank you David Garfinkle - if you're afraid to rev these engines, you shouldn't be driving an FD, there is no such thing as "low end" power in a two rotor (and I drove the car w/ stock sequential for many years)