JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

I Just Dropped My 13b W/3mm Seals From Atkins Into My Fd And Put Royal Purple In On Startup. I Was Reading Some Threads And I Came Across One Saying That The Seals May Not Set Correctly If Synthetic Is Used On Startup And That Mineral-based Oil Should Be Used For The First 1500-2000 Miles, Then The Transition Can Be Made To Synthetic. I Have Under 100 Miles On The Engine Thus Far And My Question Is: Should I Drain The Synthetic In There And Replace It With Mineral-based Until 2,000 Miles Or Should I Just Leave It?......will It Harm The Engine Going From Synthetic To Mineral-based, Then Back To Synthetic?.....all Feedback Is Welcome.....tia....ben

eastcoastbumps

iTrader: (1)

You shouldn't switch back to mineral after you've gone sythetic. I'd say it still applies no matter how few miles are on the motor. If in doubt, you should call Atkins and see what they recomend.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Drain the oil and run regular petroleum for quicker break in. The engine will break in on synthetic but it will take a long time.

I don't suggest synthetic even though you make a little bit more power and protection as it "cokes up" the rotor faces, unless you are running premix and no OMP.

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

Why don't you give Atkins a call???

You paid them $$$$ to rebuild your motor.

IM sure they have more experiance, not opinions, about which oil to run.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Maybe he didn't buy directly from Atkins...

quicksilver_rx7

bajaman

usually synthetic is a no-no for new engines. I second the recommendations that you drain the synth and put in dino for a few thousand miles (at least)

impactwrench

It is best to break in on a non-detergent mineral oil. Syn is so good at lubricating, it may not break in at all.

mad_7tist

zo6s vipers etc.. dont have alot of trouble with syn detergent oils from the factory. if you do your break in the prescribed way (low-med varying rpms with a little boost) how much oil is the omp injecting anyway. most compression issues end up being assembly problems or due to the state of the parts pre assembly. alot of people say low detergent min is the way to go, i'm not saying that it is not just that i'm not convinced.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Just because it's an Atkins engine doesn't mean he bought it from them. Could have bought it from someone who bought it from Atkins... besides, I think Atkins includes all that pertinent info with their engines at time of purchase.

bajaman

Not sure about the cars you described above, but on the ZR-1 'Vette Mercury Marine built all the engines and I remember articles about the cases of synthetic oil laying around....
I'm wondering if these engines went thru some sort of conventional break-in and then had synthetic put in(?)

NeedFD

mineral first for break in then synth.

mad_7tist

and how old is the zr-1?? how many letters up the alphabet have the api oil indexes moved since then??

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

I Bought It From An Intermediary Party Who Got It From Atkins.....i Called My Contact Initially And Asked If I Could Use Synthetic And The Rep Said "i Don't See Why Not," Then I Came Across The Threads Suggesting That Synthetic Will Not Allow The Seals To Set Correctly....will It Be Harmful To Drain The Synthetic, Put Mineral-based In, Then Go Back To Synthetic In 2,000 Miles,?.....i Just Want To Take The Steps Required To Prolong The Lifespan Of My Engine.....

maxcooper

^ undo the caps lock!

There were some problems with C5 Z06s having oil consumption issues that may have been related to not breaking in effectively. Those cars come with synthetic oil from the factory.

I would drain the oil and run some non-synthetic for 500+ miles or so, and then switch back if you want to. It will not harm the engine to switch oils in this manner.

-Max

HDP

iTrader: (2)

I think he's using some sort of mobile device, so that's probably the way it displays.

quicksilver_rx7

Everything is in CAPS. His username, location, post, etc...

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

OK, so I am finally getting around to draining this synthetic and putting in mineral-based. I have aftermarket dual oil coolers and was wondering what I can do to effectively drain the whole system (oil coolers included) of all the synthetic that is in there? Should i drain the synthetic, fill with mineral-based, start it up and let it circulate, then drain the mineral-based, and refill it with mineral based? Though it may be costly, it seems well worth it to me to guarantee a good break-in....All feedback is appreciated....Thanks!...Ben

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

There purpose of non-synthetics is to provide enough friction to seat the seals. Synthetics extend the break-in period almost indefinately because there is such little wear. Getting it to 100% synthetic probably isn't necessary.

Drain the synthetic, fill it with mineral base, pretend the engine is brand new and break in as usual.

If I remember correctly, that means you change the oil again (with more dino) after 500 miles. The reason for the quick change is because a lot of wear particles come off during break in. But it may vary from car to car so other forum members can tell you better. It wouldn't hurt, though.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

I'd say get as much synth out as you can. Un-do your lines from your aftermarket coolers and drain the oil out of those too. Fill with dyno juice, start your break in and go to ~500 miles. drain and re-fill with dyno for the next 1k. Drain and fill with synth and you'll be good to go. I've heard of it taking upwards of 10k miles for engines to break in with synthetic oils.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

+1 ^

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

dyno juice being..... any 10w40 mineral-based?

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Ya, dino = mineral.
I'd go 10W30 or 20W50. Not that it matters if it's only in there for 500 miles. I'd go detergent not non-detergent for cleanliness, though not much crud will build up in 1500 miles anyway.

10W40 needs more viscosity holding additives to get such a wide temperature range. 5W30 needs a little more too. Even synthetics, which usually don't need any additives to get the proper viscosity, need a little to acheive 10W40. These additives mean more unnecessary ash, etc. when it's burnt and less base stock. Not the biggest thing to worry about, but it's something (detergents do the same thing, but they are more necessary).

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the explanation!..*wink

ddkkww888

Castro 20-50w is what the previous owner had recommend to
me.