Brad Farrar

So, I just bought this thing. The guy before had a shop rebuild the car and I was told it worked until the owner started messing with stuff. Well.... I'm trying to figure out which of these are really necessary, and which are not.

Right now, it has the stock ECU and the car will start after a few cranks, idle well. Then, when I push in the clutch, the idle gets rough. when I move the car, it smokes a little that smells like petrol. And when it reaches 0 vacuum, all power is lost immediately, but doesn't die.

So, I've ordered a Power FC, Wideband and GM 3 bar MAP. I'll probably be doing a compression test here as soon as I can get a friend to come over and help. (and I find something to show me what to do for a compression test for this rotary)

Ok, now to the pictures


Fig. 1 - These guys were chilling under the intake manifold, kinda bunched together towards the drivers side


Fig. 2 - These little guys were just next to Fig.1, two connectors here, along with a couple cut wires and this vacuum hose/check valve (I'm guessing is a crankcase breather)


Fig 3. - It's pretty obviously coolant temp or level sensor, with the wire cut off, but I don't know where that wire is supposed to plug into... I don't see the opposing connector anywhere.


Fig 4. - This big fella is just in front of the drivers side firewall. It's not plugged into anything, nor can I find anything near it?


Fig 5 - Now, this hose is just chillin. under the intake mani. I see a hose there that is disconnected running under the car, but it is just too short to reach. So, that's not hooked up, neither is it going anywhere.


Fig. 6 - Now this bunch was between the intake mani and the firewall, pointing towards the passenger side. Ummm... there's a couple cut wires and a few connectors, nothing is connected. (Also, I see there is no O2 sensor on the downpipe).


Fig. 7 - Now, this lonely soldier was left on top of the intake manifold. I have no idea where it came from, or how he's staid there.


Fig. 8 - It looks like this connection that is on the drivers side of the block has been leaking coolant all over the place. I'm guessing I can just remove that sill connector and put the coolant hose straight on there.


Fig. 9 - I was told this is a "S5 hybrid" turbo. I know nothing of that or what it can do, or why it's there. The engine builder said that turbo, with 850cc injectors for prim and secondary and a powerfc could make about 400whp... I'm not convinced.


Fig. 10 - Just to show the engine bay. Oh, and that darn headlight cover flew off while i was towing it... that sucks



And just to kill people with 56k... here's the car. I'd love to restore some glory to this thing. Get the engine running around 400whp give or take 50 or so. I'll take out the whole interior, clean it up, replace broken stuff (except I refuse to pay $300 to replace the missing drivers window switch). Fix these hard to open exterior door handles. The exterior will need some TLC, but nothing too crazy. Just get the body straight and fresh paint, maybe some other little touches (diffuser, maybe a '99 bumper) to get her looking pretty.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

wow, what the **** ?

None of the stuff that the stock ECU needs to get boost are connected, no wonder you are seeing 0 and nothing more.

some of the vacuum stuff was wrong. it probably has the rat nest removed but seriously it's all wrong/not even connected.

I feel sorry for this FD. what is ur goal on this ?

Brad Farrar

Yeah, it seems like nothing is connected correctly. I'm just a little bummed that even when I get my Power FC going, that I still won't know where these connectors are supposed to go. Maybe if I can find a stock RX7 around here to inspect I can make an mental image and come back and fix this one.

My goal is to get her running, looking clean and no longer be a disgrace to the FD3S name.


See, the thing is, if this were an E36 BMW. I'd know exactly what everything is just by a quick glance. However, I wanted to challange myself, and I can't yet recognize every connector in an RX7.

RotaryRX-007

Don't fret. All is OK. It's not that bad.

Stock ecu is in limp because of all the disconnected ****. Once you plug in the power fc, switch it to single turbo mode and it should run fine. The connector next to the brake master is for cruise control. Every FD was wired for it. The connector just dangles if it wasn't equipped or was removed. Pic 1 plugs are for aws and whatever else emissions **** was on the intake manifold. 2 and 6 are connectors for the twin turbo system. All of it is stuff you don't need and won't prevent it from running with a PFC.

I'm more concerned with the **** brown rusty coolant sprayed all over the engine bay. It blew the upper coolant hose at some point. I'd be worried about how hot it got and whether the engine can maintain operating temp or if a coolant seal let go.

I've seen worse. Clean up the wiring, give the car a through cleaning and do ALL maintenance (color of that coolant looks like it's had poor maintenance record) and she should treat you pretty good in return. Good luck!

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

u have power fc already so just yea switch to single turbo mode and start from there

it looks like the ******* who sold u the car pretty much just rip everything he wants to sell and left you with this piece of crap.

but if i were u i will at least get the FSM and start reading, most of the connectors fits only 1 way and will match the color of the stuff they are connecting to. but it looks like u missed a lot of stuff ... it will take u a WHILE to catch up ...

Gilgamesh

your broken off connector you pictutred on the UIM should be the stock o2 sensor plug.

e36bmer

Thanks. The car was overheated and then it was rebuilt. Afterwards returned to the owner that screwed it up and sold it to me.


Oh nice, thanks. I was curious about that one. I guess it'll be one of those cut wires. Darn, now just to try to figure out which one it is so I can hook up the O2 when I setup the PowerFC.... actually, I can probably just run some wires directly from the wideband to the PowerFC and save that headache.

kanundra

iTrader: (11)

Pic #2-

That rubber plug is on a coolant line, and it will probably fail after more heat cycles and and as it drys out. I would suggest pulling it off and replacing it with a coolant hose with a bolt in the end (with hose clamps of course).