rowdog_14

I tried searching but searches I found did not apply to mine. Most people would idle and not drive or not start.

So I was going up a hill under good acceleration but not WOT. Around 4000-4500 rpm the car stumbled and dropped rpm. I let off the gas a little and continued up the hill with no obvious issues. When I got to the top of the hill and pushed the clutch in the car died. It started right up and died again. It seems to drive fine under 4500 rpm but dies at idle. I do not have a check engine light on. I do not see white smoke just black and the car starts up just fine. Even after it dies on idle it start right back up. I am thinking the following without looking at anything

1. vacuum leak
2. fuel issue
3. MAP sensor

I am going to buy some gauges(Boost, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, AFR). Also I am going to get a compression tester and check the compression again.

rowdog_14

Ok so I am learning and trying to learn fast.

I jumped the F/P to GND and the fuel pump comes on and primes when the ignition is ON, but my wife is not hearing the fuel pump when the car is started. I think this might be my problem. I am still wondering how the car is even starting if this is the case?! Or how it is staying running if I am giving it gas or driving under 4k rpm?!

rowdog_14

Started reading over the online service manual. Will check the following when I get home...

1. Voltage at the pump connection
2. Circuit Opening Relay
3. Fuel Pump Relay

Also going to go pickup a fuel pressure gauge to add to the fuel line

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

If the car is generally running I don't think it would be the fuel pump or anything there.

Big thing here is it's not holding an idle. Definitely start with a compression test before you go further, there's no sense testing a zillion systems if you popped the engine.

Dale

rowdog_14

That is what I am hoping not lol, but even so I have prepared mentally for buying the car and this happening sooner than later but not the next day . I am guess fuel because the fuel pump is not running at all. Only runs with F/P,GND connected and ignition set to ON. If after checking all the fuel pump items which should only take a few minutes. I will look into the compression.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

What mods does the car have?

rowdog_14

all factory

rowdog_14

Found the issues lol!!!! Line came off the boost sensor. Started right up and drove good and idled good.

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

That's weird because I have had that happen on a dyno where the map/boost line came off and it just stuttered alot but would still hold an idle. Good thing that you found something though. I always have zipties on boost lines now.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

I have had many cars come into the shop over years for this issue. Owners have usually self diagnosed the problem as a blown engine, they are always shocked when I reconnect the hose and the cars perfectly.

rowdog_14

I seriously thought I was screwed

I kinda figured it was a vacuum because I had that happen on another car I had, but when I pulled up the vacuum layout I was like DAM- and never though I would find it.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Get some good silicone vacuum hose and you'll never have that issue again. I would just get a few feet to replace the line to the MAP sensor.

Glad you sorted it out! Sometimes it's the easy things!

Go to boostcontroller.com and get a few feet of 3.5mm silicone vacuum hose. You don't need to do a full vacuum line job or anything, just replace that hose and have some on hand if you have other hoses that are tired, broken, or falling off.

Dale

rowdog_14

Thanks. I think I might tackle to whole job. I like to get in, get it all done and not have to worry. I heard it is a big job but rather not have to chase down an bad hose.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Most of the hoses in the rat's nest are baked on - they don't look great, but they work and they aren't going anywhere. For many people I just recommend changing any hoses that are damaged or not staying on. IMHO it's not worth doing a full vacuum line job with the engine in the car, it's just crazy. If you have the engine out, sure, it's a thing to do.

The vacuum lines that go to the intake manifold and the pressure tank are the main problems. Since they are disconnected to work on the car they lose their grip and easily pop off. Those are worth replacing.

Dale

rowdog_14

ok