Ordered a 200amp alternator with an external rectifier yesterday. Should be here in a week or so. Hopefully that will cure my problem.

 

Got my alternator today, but I don't think it's going to work. It's based on a GM alternator and the case is large enough I don't think I can make it fit. I thought it was going to be a Mitsubishi alternator.

 

Anything can fit with enough hard work and determination!
(and a machine shop, raw aluminum, and enough cash)

 

The one I put on my Honda was quite large also. Was interesting making it fit. If memory serves, I believe it was a GM large case alternator with an external regulator ( Under the Lestek brand name ) too.
Like RD said: "Anything can fit with enough hard work and determination!
(and a machine shop, raw aluminum, and enough cash)"

You may have to have some custom brackets made if you can`t come up with something that will work. Sometimes you need to think outside the box. Guess I spent too many years in car audio.....most of the time we came up with solutions to problems that others said, "it can`t be done". Look at the problem you are having. Think about what you need to do to make it work. There`s your answer.

 

I have no problem with making custom brackets if that's all it would take. The problem is the to make it fit I'd either have to shave an inch off the back of the alternator or take an inch out of the front of the engine in order to make the pulley line up with the drive belt.

 

Why not just send it back and get a rebuilt 140amp from Ihor & Rich? It will be the stock alternator and the whole problem with be done...

 

Isn't the drive pulley for the PS and AC about an inch infront if the drive belt for the WP and air pump? you could use this belt, along with alot of custom fabrication to drive the alternator, but Mahjik is right, it would probably be better to send it back, just pushing the point that anything is possible.

 

Can the alternator be raised up any to clear the area on the backside that is hitting? If that is doable, I would think that a longer belt could be found to fit & drive the alternator. What is the back of the alternator coming in contact with? Can you tell me what the alternator case depth is? Don`t add the pulley depth dimension to this measurement. Can you take a photo of the alternator maybe sitting next to the one that is on the engine now? Maybe show what it is coming in contact with on the backside?

 

I thought about the alternators from IR Performance, but I don't think 140A is enough. My stereo alone can draw over 100A, leaving only 40 to run everything else. The one I bought is 200A, which should be plenty. I've decided I'm going to call in the reinforcements. I have a good friend that is a retired mechanical engineer. If anybody can make this fit it's him. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

is it like a buckling thing that's happening to you on leveled throttle?

 

Yeah, almost like someone turned the key off for a split second. When I eliminate all the extra currnt draw it clears up.

 

i believe i also get that, but mostly on street driving, and it happens sommme times, i don't have all the sound system stuff you got, a low powered amp and a different head unit for the radio.. i just accelerate a little and it normally stops. i was thinking it could be the throttle cable.

 

Well, I just looked up my amps and found out I'm not pushing nearly as much as I thought. Good thing, if I was I probably would have completely fried my alternator. I found, based on the model numbers I'm only pushing a little bit shy of 1200 watts. This is good news from the alternator stand point because it puts me in a better position to use the 150A alternator. If I add a good stiffening capacitor 150 may just be enough as long as I don't go full volume, which I have yet to do (it's too loud).

 

Sounds exactly like what I'm seeing. If I accelerate its fine, but if I hold constant at any speed the problem returns.

I drove around with all electrical loads turned off for more than an hour and not one problem. The voltage on my turbo timer was reading 14.1 - 14.4vdc. Turned on the headlights - still no problems after 20 minutes, but the voltage was down to 13.9vdc. Turned on the A/C - began feeling slight roughnesss in the way the car was running after about 10 minutes and the voltage was down to 13.6 vdc. Turned on the stereo - within about 3 minutes the same problem came back and the voltage was down to 12.3 - 12.8vdc. Turned everything back off and within a couple minutes the car was running normal again. Turned on just the stereo and found that if I kept the volume relatively low everything was okay, but if I turn it up the problem comes back and the voltage drops.

You may want to try something similar if this all works out.

 

lucky, im moving to arlington now! i gotta take mine down to emissions.

 

yea but i dont get it too often, sometimes i do, sometimes i dont