lead_foot

Alright so this is where I am at. I bought a stock 94 seven with 76k miles on it and quite a lot of problems. I will have these parts put on by this weekend:
downpipe
high flow cat
racing beat exhaust
manual boost contoller (was wondering if anyone had a pic of exactly where to put it)
pettit cold air intake
boost and water temp gauges
AST
O2 sensor

Problemswant to know what to do or threads to look at)
passenger door window does not work
AC doesnt work(planning on taking it to an AC guy to get it fixed)
fans dont work
turn signals dont work
seller lost lock for stock rims
antenna doesnt work

So now I plan on buying a FC and fluidyne radiotor and possibly a fuel pump and injectors. I was wondering which ones to buy and if I need them. After all these mods I would like to get a compression test done and I would also like to get the car to a specialist and get it tuned. If any of you guys live in Georgia please let me know who are some good guys. Later I want to get the engine rebuilt or buy a reman and same thing with the turbos(was wondering what non-seq and seq mean? and if I should buy the BNR turbos or convert to a single system).

Please let me know what you guys think I should do. I have to go back to school in 2 weeks and I need my car by then or atleast 2.5 hrs driveable. Thanks for all your guys help. I am trying to learn EVERYTHING about this amazing vehicle and if any of you wouldnt mind me PM you back and forth with questions that would be freaking awesome. Thanks to all who can help me with my quest to being a great RX-7 owner.

crimmeny

My passenger side window stopped working as well. All I had to do to fix the problem was remove the pass door interior and clean the contacts of the wire connector for the motor. Much better that buying a new motor.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

I'm against doing all of those mods at once.

1) Install boost and and water temp gauge AST and O2 sensor first. Once you do that take the car out for a drive. Look at your boost pattern on a WOT run in 3 gear til redline. Actually write down at what RPM you see the full boost, transition, and if the boost tapers off, which it should since you still have all of your cats. Your pattern should be 10-8-10-8 @ 2900-4500-4510-6900 RPMs respectively. If you don't then you probably have either a bad solenoid, vacuum/boost leak, clogged pre or main cat. But it does not matter if you are low on boost what you want is a point of reference.

also see if you can find someone to verify the boost gauge. Boost gauges have been known to be inacurrate. My autometer is two lbs off.

2) Install boost controller. Take it again on a WOT run see if you can get the same boost pattern which you should. If not then you did something wrong, fix it. Also see if you can actually ccontrol boost.

3) Install you cold AIR intake. Take for a run to see how it affected your boost. Adjust accordingly

4) install your exhaust setup. Take note that you may actually get boost creep so be careful. Do short WOT runs at 7 psi of boost. If you notice that you start creeping get off the throttle. People creep at diferent levels: I creep to 11 psi but my turbos are ported (may help) but I'm tuned for 12 psi so I'm ok. Others creep till 15 psi yikes... Since you have a stock ECU you never boost past 11 psi. and I mean 11 not 11.5. So becareful in determining how bad is your creep if you have any at all. A boost controller does not do **** for boost creep. The only remedy for boost creep is to port the wastegate.

now if you don't get boost creep just set your boost to 10 psi and happy motoring.


M-

F0RSAKEN

Those I would skip until everything else works right. Doing these first will only make your troubleshooting more difficult.

As stated, start by cleaning contacts. If you SEARCH, this is a common problem.

Another common failure on an old car. Can have a leak, and so the freon (still r12 in '94 right?) will have leaked out. Also check to make sure the AC clutch is engaging. If its not a fuse might be blown, or the motor is dead?

Could be another fuse related problem? Unsure about this one....

Do dash indicators light up and blink? If not, could indicate more electrical problems....again, check your fuses, also make sure the bulbs are good.

Can you just order a new one, if its the factory locks, from a Mazda dealership? If you can, call Ray Crowe at 1-888-533-3400

Motor could be dead.

lead_foot

I guess its already too late with the exhaust stuff because my stock pre cat is already off and i am in the process of putting in the downpipe. I guess that is my fault. So since my exhaust will be on, will trying to read my boost levels be dificult? If I set the boost controller for 10, will the second turbo still go to 8 when it kicks in? What should I do now?

I was also wondering where the fan fuse and turn signal fuses were? My fuse box under the drivers side doesnt have the cover. Thanks for all your guys help.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Oh missed that about the fan...fix it ASAP. Rotaries run hot enough with the fans on.

Go ahead and finish your exhaust then, BUT make sure that your boost gauge is accurate. That is very important.

once you open up your exhaust your boost pattern should be 10-8-10 no more drop off after 6900 RPMs. The only way to stop that trasitional dip is to convert your set up to non sequential. The trasitional dip is nothing to be concerned about.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Didn't we cover this recently?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/need-some-help-opinions-561417/

lead_foot

yeah your right we did. I wanted to just wanted to write it up again because I am father along with installing all of the upgrades. And I bought an autometer boost gauge, I heard they they were a little off. Will that suffice? And I was also wondering what the difference between a seq and non-seq system is?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

First off, I agree with Montego. Install your mods one step at a time, and be sure to install safety/reliability items (gauges, AST, radiator, downpipe) before power adders (boost controller, exhaust, midpipe). It's no problem to install the downpipe first, don't worry about that.

The fan fuse is in the larger of the two fuse boxes. If you're missing the labels, you can find tons of info in the factory service manuals, which can be downloaded here. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/94-fsms-available-download-449950/
Download all of the manuals, and the fuse information is on page Z1-3 of the Body Electric manual. (pg 476 of the pdf file)



The stock turbo system is sequential: meaning that they aren't always on at the same time. Below 4500 rpm, the primary turbo is producing boost (10psi max). The secondary turbo is added in at 4500rpm (and they both drop to 8psi for a smooth transition, then ramp back up to a full 10psi from both turbos).

To run the turbo's in non-sequential mode is a modification that many owners perform because they don't like the feeling of a transition at 4500RPM, or they want a system that is easier to troubleshoot (often the latter).


-s-

lead_foot

so I just got most of my parts in and I am trying to get down the stock exhaust and I noticed a couple things. 1. There is a metal hose going into the cat, what is it? how do I get it off? 2. Where should I start taking off the bolts? On another note, I was looking at the directions of installing the boost gauge and water temp gauge and I was completely dumfounded. Please help me in whatever way you can.

When I put on my new AST, I noticed that the hose on the bottom had a lot of gunk in it. I tried to clean out as much as I could, but not sure on how well I did. What is that stuff?

I also sound what looked like oil on the inner rim of my intercooler pipes. Whats that from?

lead_foot

bump

1994FD408

yes we did

lead_foot

i know wer covered it, but I had more questions. I jsut figured I would retype what I have asked to see if anyone else had some other opinions.