13Beast REW

I have my engine out and need to store the car outside for maybe a week and its supposed to rain this week. I'm looking at the connector that runs from the engine harness to the rest of the car but don't know which pins would be good to send 12 volts through so i can put the windows up. Does anyone know which pins on the connector would be good for this? I was also thinking of sending 12 volts through the fuse connector for the windows... would that work or cause problems? If anyone has a wiring diagram I could use that instead also.

13Beast REW

wow... guess i'm not gettin any help with this

4Fun

iTrader: (8)

Get some cheap wire and run the wires to the battery. ground the black. pop off the panel and touch one of the three wires. Its not going to hurt anything. You know right away if its the right wire or not

mad_7tist

you dont even need to take off the door panel just get the switch panel off one way pos and neg is up the rev is down

jimlab

Actually, the window motors are totally separate from the engine harness and ECU, and you don't need either one in the car to run them up or down.

As long as the battery is connected to the power distribution block under the hood and all the fuses are good, you can run the windows up and down all day. And open the sunroof, run the radio, turn on the headlights, lock the doors, arm the alarm, honk the horn...

13Beast REW

Well at the time I started thinking about a secondary harness, I had a batter connected to the main fuse block and pos (+) terminal of the batter grounded to the chassis (the hood release latch). The dash and running lights, and several relays clicked on both the left and right sides of the engine compartment confirming power was there but nothing else on the car had power. No windows, no door locks, no map light, no sun roof, no headlights. I verified only the 30 amp fuse for the power windows and it was fine but... I will double check the other fuses up and down the harness as I may have missed something.

Thanks for the replys.

jimlab

Let's put it this way... I haven't had a rotary engine, and engine harness, or an ECU in my car since 1998, and my windows go up and down just fine.

If you're talking about the "front" engine bay harness, which has the power distribution fuse blocks and relay box on it, then you will have to connect power from the battery to the fuse panel under the dash by other means if it's been taken out of the car. Otherwise, just connect battery power to the main power distribution block and ground the battery.

Invest in the shop manual (including the wiring manual) or download it online.

13Beast REW

I have the shop manual and recently aquired the wiring diagram book and after reading through it, it shows the secondary harness that runs through the engine, down thru the firewall to the ECU. The pins I was refering to are in the connector that join the two harnesses. The main block I already have powered and grounded but for whetever reason this only powers the the dash and running lights. In the wiring diagram it shows 2 fuses that the power must flow through to get to the window switch.

By my understanding of the diagram these are the main fuse and the 30 amp power window fuse in the fuse box underneath the steering wheel. Right now what I'm tryin to figure out is if the fuse box inside the car is connected to the main fuse block under the hood or to the harness that runs through the engine to the ecu, and if so, what pins to power.

I'll do more looking over the wiring diagram but I'm not the greatest at that type of thing which is my reason for asking for help in the first place. Thanks for what been offered so far though.

jimlab

Yes.

Also yes, but the engine harness is not related to interior functions in any way.

If your front engine harness (power distribution, relay box, etc.) is connected, there are no "pins" to power. Power comes directly from the distribution block into the interior of the car to the fuse box, and from there to the various functions of the interior (windows, stereo, etc.).

13Beast REW

Ok, well basically what I've determined is that the fuse box isnt getting power. Nothing that has fuse in that box is operational. No sun roof, no lights, no radio, no windows, no door locks. The horn works fine and a few of the lights in the dash light up so I know that there is power. I'm looking over the wiring diagram now trying to figure out where to check to see why power isnt getting to the fuse box.

13Beast REW

The door locks, hazards, turn signals, and brake lights actually do work. So that means there must be power to the fuse box then. All of the fuses are good but for whatever reason I'm still unable to operate the sun roof, windows, interior light and head lights.

13Beast REW

Finally getting back around to this. I've figured out that the things I mentioned (sun roof, windows, interior lights, and head lights) are not grounding. I've checked the interior grounding points as per the wiring diagram in the FSM and everything seems to check out ok. However I'm not getting any chassis grounding, I know this because even after connecting the battery cables I still have to run an extra wire from the negative battery post to the hood latch to get any power flowing through the car after turning the key. I'm still at it but if anyone has any more suggestions please post them.

I'm trying to prep the car for the installation of my new motor. I need everything working again since I have to go through inspection again.

13Beast REW

With ignition turned to "on" voltage from ignition switch is 12v (11.97). voltage from joint box and at window switch is 0.11 volts. Any guesses about that?

13Beast REW

After messing with it some more I was able to figure out that the IG2 wire from the ignition switch (which powers the windows, sunroof, and wipers) isnt tranfering voltage when the key is tunred to on. Accessory and IG1 are powered as they should be. I'm no electrician but judging from the ignition switch diagram, all three wires from the ignition switch should be carrying 12 volts when the key is set to on right?

I was able to workout the issues with the interior lights and radio though.

13Beast REW

More closure from 13Beast:

Today, after more digging I was able to determine that the cause of my issues was the connectors the go to the bottom of the main fuse box on the positive battery cable were disconnected. So should anyone else run into this issue, this should be one of the first things to look for.

Since getting them back connected I've notice that my left and right door speakers as well as the center channel speakers are inop and have a bit of static running through them even when the radio volume is turned down. I'll be troubleshooting that later.