Am about to drop in new motor and I wanted to know if anyone has a pic of what block off plate goes where? I can figure it out, but trying to save time here. Thanks in advance.

 

if you already have premade plates, it's not hard to find where the holes line up

 

DO you just start unplugging stuff??

 

basically, yes

 

The shapes are pretty self explanitory, Just pretend like you are back in pre school when you have to match up the shapes. Just take the emissions crap off and plug it up. Cap off all vacuum lines with caps and zip ties.

 

lmao "NO Billy! The square peg goes in the SQUARE whole, not the ROUND one!"

 

Anyone else wanna offer help?

 

matwey,

The block off plates only fit in once place for each one. So, if you remove the AWS, just keep trying various plates until one fits. There will only be one that will be just right (if you bought a kit, not made your own plates).

If it seems like the plate will fit with just a little grinding, it's still the wrong plate for the area.

 

Please tell me what you are eliminating and why and I'll tell you what plates you need and any catches associated with them.


I assume by your mods that you are at least eliminating the ACV. That gets blocked off by the large, bubbly-looking BOP. You will find a disc-shaped check valve behind the ACV. I left mine in the LIM and put the BOP over it. I don't know if it really makes a difference, but I probably should have just removed it. You can also remove the pair of hard pipes from the outside of the LIM. (see pic)https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...id=98134&stc=1. There's another port in the firewall side of the LIM that connected the fresh air pipe that once ran to your main catalytic converter. You don't need to block these ports off IF you've already blocked off the ACV. IIRC, there are three two-prong plugs (2 black, 1 white) that connect directly the the selenoids built into the ACV. I just left these hanging with no resistors or anything on them. Solenoids (B, blue connector) and (C, grey connector) are no longer used. You can either leave the solenoids attached to their connectors with no vacuum tubing, or you can remove the solenoids and stick a resistor in each of the unused connectors. The resistor should be 330 to 360 Ohms, and 1/2 Watt or greater.

You might as well also eliminate the EGR. This is the arrow-shaped BOP. Solenoid (D, yellow connector) can be eliminated with the EGR. Use another resistor if you remove the solenoid.

Other things you can eliminate:
Oil Metering Pump (I wouldn't)
Double Throttle (I did)
Fuel Pressure Regulator solenoid (I want to)
Accelerated Warm-Up system (I did, but the Idle Speed Controller will take over and still cause a 3krpm warm-up cycle)
Idle Speed Controller (I didn't, I recommend you keep it if you don't have idle issues)

 

Thanks Jonski. I bought a kit from E-Bay (Mistake, I know). Decent quality at best. I searched a lot last night and got some help, but there's a ton of useless info (and some I don't quite understand) out there too.
1. Is the ACV disc shaped check valve cover metal?
2. Why eliminate the ACV or AWS ( If the ISC take over)?
3. I did eliminate the EGR valve. I capped the vacuum going into the LIM.
4. Might just do the EGR valve for now.
5. MOTORS GOING IN TOMORROW!!!!!!!

 

The ACV is on the inside of the LIM just above the injectors.

The ACV works with the airpump. If you removed the airpump, the ACV is useless.

The AWS, eliminating it just removes extra connections (one to the UIM and one to the intake elbow) that you don't have to worry about.

He means "remove" it off the LIM (in which case a block-off plate will replace it).

 

Is there an advantage to removing the ACV, or is it to just clean up the engine bay? Will it hinder the motor is it's still plugged in?
The EGR was blocked off with a BOP and the line to the LIM was capped.
Thanks Mahjik.

 

Once the airpump is removed, yes, removing the ACV is just cleaning up the engine.

Nope, it won't be a problem to leave it there. Some people leave it there just so they don't have to deal with sticking resistors on the harness connections.

 

If you're using an aftermarket computer, like the PowerFC, you can just leave the connectors loose (e.g. no resistors) and just cut the wires on the PCM side. Or have someone ( who knows what they're doing ) remove the pins from inside the PCM

 

Not trying to beat a dead horse, but how about just removing the two pipes the go into/out of the ACV? I already have the upper (intake) one plugged. Thanks again.

 

^

 

You can just remove the pipes if you want to. From my understanding, that's just a pass-through for the air supply to the converter.

 

It won't suck anything into the motor then?

 

I'm not sure at the moment, but I can check for you this afternoon when I get home. Also, you can buy a set of blockoff plates from RX-7 store. They have a plate to cover both openings as well as plates for the other emissions stuff and the Double Throttle opening. Also, when you take the pips off, just look at the passage and you'll be able to tell if what I posted earlier is correct. It's been a while since I did mine so I'm about half-way sure about that, but I will check for you this afternoon and post results

 

Why not get one of these, they supposedly flow better, and no Block off plates, and you can run 4 Injectors, plus the standard 2 primaries...

 

I wanted to leave the ACV on and just plug the two pipes. Thanks for the help.

 

did some research.....you can just leave the holes open, no suction into the intake. If you look through the hole you will see the casting for the intake runners and see that the hole where those pipes go do not breach the intake tract.

 

so if i remove the acv and use a block off plate are you saying i dont need to use resistors for the pins? will this throw codes or affect anyhting? where can i pick these up if i need them.

 

sorry will this be the same for a 2nd gen.?

 

I am doing a single project also... you can find pics at...

http://photobucket.com/albums/y93/dhahlen/

anyway... I was lost with the plates at first... the shapes really help out a lot =)

I'll probably read this thread 4-5 times before I figure out where they go anyway. My UIM/LIM/TB are all getting polished right now so I Can't do jack.

I guess the rx7store has only 1 diamond shaped plate, so I need to make myself another one. I have to cap off another oil line (This is for a single conversion only) it's not needed if you're sticking with the twins... the rx7store should have all the plates you need if you remove EVERYTHING. =P