Need help removing FD flywheel
#1
Need help removing FD flywheel
Looking for some advise on how to remove the flywheel while the engine is in the car. I tried with an impact driver but it didn't budge. It appears that the threads have some sort of anti vibration sealant. The driver I'm using is rated for 2k lb of torque.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
The sealant is just there to stop an oil leak. That Milwaukee impact driver is for screws. It doesn’t have any guts. I use this one with the same xc5.0 battery you have pictured and it zips it right off. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...nches/2962P-20
You could use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extension. Some people use the jack handle. But that will require the fly wheel stopper installed.
~ GW
You could use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extension. Some people use the jack handle. But that will require the fly wheel stopper installed.
~ GW
Last edited by gdub29e; 10-13-22 at 11:39 AM.
#3
The sealant is just there to stop an oil leak. That Milwaukee impact driver is for screws. It doesn’t have any guts. I use this one with the same xc5.0 battery you have pictured and it zips it right off. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...nches/2962P-20
You could use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extension. Some people use the jack handle. But that will require the fly wheel stopper installed.
~ GW
You could use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extension. Some people use the jack handle. But that will require the fly wheel stopper installed.
~ GW
No jack bar.
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#8
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
If replacing the sealant with a skim of new will help you sleep… OK. But imo it’s not that critical.
You need the half-inch impact which (iirc) Milwaukee rates at 450 ft/lbs. If it’s ever been off before, that should get it off w/o much problem. But if it’s the first time, it may take a stopper and a BIG cheater or a bigger impact.
Going back on I’ve used my 450 ft/lb impact and just drilled it for everything it was worth. Never had issues.
Once loose, leave the nut on several threads and use the biggest dead low hammer you can find to smack the face and loosen the FW from the tapered shaft. Just leave that nut on so it suddenly doesn’t fall off. If it’s going to be off for a while I like to leave a skim of gear oil or light grease on the snout of the FW to prevent any corrosion. It’s the shiny and smooth part that inserts into the engines rear main seal and you want it to stay that way.
You need the half-inch impact which (iirc) Milwaukee rates at 450 ft/lbs. If it’s ever been off before, that should get it off w/o much problem. But if it’s the first time, it may take a stopper and a BIG cheater or a bigger impact.
Going back on I’ve used my 450 ft/lb impact and just drilled it for everything it was worth. Never had issues.
Once loose, leave the nut on several threads and use the biggest dead low hammer you can find to smack the face and loosen the FW from the tapered shaft. Just leave that nut on so it suddenly doesn’t fall off. If it’s going to be off for a while I like to leave a skim of gear oil or light grease on the snout of the FW to prevent any corrosion. It’s the shiny and smooth part that inserts into the engines rear main seal and you want it to stay that way.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 10-13-22 at 01:26 PM.
#10
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
i use a 6 ft piece of pipe and a flywheel stopper. i don't know if you will be able to fit it while the motor is in the car... you should easily be able to remove the nut w a 4 foot pipe. if it doesn't budge hit it w a propane torch for a few minutes.
#11
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Originally Posted by gdub29e;[url=tel:12537087
12537087]^ This.
You should really torque the nut. But some, even I, will impact it back on.
~ GW
You should really torque the nut. But some, even I, will impact it back on.
~ GW
edit: FSM specifies 290-360 ft/lbs.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 10-13-22 at 04:03 PM.
#13
All right.... I was able to remove the flywheel. Now that it's off I see that there are signs of oil. Please help me understand where this is prelubrication during the building if the motor and the rear main seal or is this because oil was actually leaking from the crankshaft and bolts.
Is the solution to tighten the bolts and change seal even though it looks new?
Is the solution to tighten the bolts and change seal even though it looks new?
#16
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
The tension bolts go through the coolant jacket so yes, they could leak coolant. While you have the flywheel off, you should re-torque the tension bolts for good measure. Was your car leaking oil before you took the flywheel off? Could just be residual oil now that the fly wheel is out of the way it can drip.
~ GW
~ GW
#18
I did just check what was around the bolts and it appears to be vasaline.
So moving on to the rear main seal, curious to why there would be oil.
I did read that someone ran their motor with the tranny installed. Is that possible?? Maybe I can run the motor to see if oil comes out.
So moving on to the rear main seal, curious to why there would be oil.
I did read that someone ran their motor with the tranny installed. Is that possible?? Maybe I can run the motor to see if oil comes out.
#19
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Appears to me to be a leak at the rear main seal. Probably < $20 for the seal and it’s pretty easy to change. That one looks new and appears to be seated evenly. But not sure why it would be leaking after a recent rebuild. They usually last quite a while.
Maybe look at, and post a couple good pictures, of the back side of the FW…of the part that inserts into that seal. It should be really clean, smooth and shiny and there is always some grooving. I think it’s really rare and never saw one myself, but have heard of really deep grooving on high mileage cars causing a leak.
If you re-torque tension bolts be sure to follow the specs and order set out in the FSM.
Maybe look at, and post a couple good pictures, of the back side of the FW…of the part that inserts into that seal. It should be really clean, smooth and shiny and there is always some grooving. I think it’s really rare and never saw one myself, but have heard of really deep grooving on high mileage cars causing a leak.
If you re-torque tension bolts be sure to follow the specs and order set out in the FSM.
#22
Obviously it's not a new FW. If I were to fill the groove with sealant would this work?
#23
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
No sealant isn’t the answer.
I have never seen a brand new FW but think there are grooves from the factory which correspond to the ‘lips’ of the seal. Your FW does appear pretty new but it also looks like somewhere along the line that snout was got some rust on it. And in my experience it doesn’t take much corrosion to pit the mating surfaces and abrade that seal as it’s spinning inside, just enough to leak.
I have never seen a brand new FW but think there are grooves from the factory which correspond to the ‘lips’ of the seal. Your FW does appear pretty new but it also looks like somewhere along the line that snout was got some rust on it. And in my experience it doesn’t take much corrosion to pit the mating surfaces and abrade that seal as it’s spinning inside, just enough to leak.
#25
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
So you say the engine was rebuilt, like JUST rebuilt and never run? That just all looks like residual oil from building an engine. You put oil on the threads of the tension bolts when installing and oil on the washers so there will be some there.
Nothing looks like a big leak or anything weird.
Also....why are you removing the flywheel?
The rust on the flywheel is fine. It's raw cast iron, cast iron rusts VERY fast but that's OK, it's just surface rust. The edge that touches the orange seal may need a once-over with a Scotchbrite and that's about it.
Dale
Nothing looks like a big leak or anything weird.
Also....why are you removing the flywheel?
The rust on the flywheel is fine. It's raw cast iron, cast iron rusts VERY fast but that's OK, it's just surface rust. The edge that touches the orange seal may need a once-over with a Scotchbrite and that's about it.
Dale