hanman

I have to replace a broken lug stud. I have everything removed, except I can't get the hub to seperate from the splined drive shaft (halfshaft). The manual states to put a used hub nut on it and hit it with a brass hammer (which of course I don't own). I tried that and managed to slightly mangle the end of the shaft and totally wreck the nut. I have two more nuts on order, any body have any advice in the mean time?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

put the nut back on the threaded shaft..until it is almost on.,but the threads don't show out the nut.put a small piece of 2 x4 between the NUT and a 2.5 lb Sledge..give it a hit..when you get the shaft off the hub,put a light coat of Grease or antisieze on the Spline ..so you don't have to encounter what you are going through in the future..(done this for Front wheel drive cars alot..they stick like a *****)..my rear shafts werent as bad,I just lay on the ground and Hoofed it with my foot..Popped,no problemo!..

hanman

Yea, I fubared the original nut, so I have to wait for new ones to arrive. That will give it time to soak in PB Blaster. Thanks.

hanman

Any other ideas are welcome.

DamonB

The splines get corroded and stick to the inside of the hub. I had the exact same problem as you. Try liberally spraying PB Blaster onto the splines from both sides and let it soak. Do this a few times throughout the day and try to hammer it out the next day. If this doesn't work use a torch to heat the hub near the axle and then trying to hammer it out. If that doesn't work just pop the rubber boot on the tripot joint loose and pull the entire upright/wheel bearing/axle out of the diff. Now you can mount the upright in a press and press the axle out of the spindle.

I fubared the end of one axle as it mushroomed from being hammered so hard. I do not recommend putting on old nut on the axle and hammering that. You can easily damage the threads on the axle from striking the nut so hard (ask me how I know). The end of the axle is not threaded and if it mushrooms or gets mangled you can merely grind it afterwards with no harm to anything.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-401595/

hanman

Yea, I have mushroomed the end of the axle too. But, not too bad. I should be able to grind it down.

Damon, I don't have to replace the wheel bearing just to replace a lug stud do I?

DamonB

Unfortunately you do. You have to press the spindle out of the wheel bearing in order to replace the studs. When you press the spindle out of the wheel bearing the bearing seperates and is destroyed. There's no way around it.

You're going to have to do everything in the thread I linked above except you'll hammer the old studs out and the new ones in before pressing the spindle into the new wheel bearing. Be sure to replace all five studs; they cost nothing.

I know it sucks; I was there too once. I spent a couple hundred bucks just to replace a rear wheel stud before I bought my own press.

swilson@assetworks.com

iTrader: (13)

I used a large three jawed gear puller to persuade one of my axles to seperate.
I also have one that refuses to seperate. I bent the lower support on a 20 ton press trying to get it to seperate.

BTW - Make sure that you put anti-seeze on the axle stub when you reassemble.

DamonB

Where did you position the jaws of the puller?

hanman

well **** me.

Damon, thanks for your replies. I had no idea what a job this was to become. All this because some dumb s.... couldn't put a lug nut on correctly.

hanman

Any advice on bearing replacement? Local parts store ok vs OEM Mazda?

odditysmurf

I had to do this recently. I was forced to use a propane torch and a gear puller. Came right off with a little heat. I ordered a timkin (sp) hub off the net. cant remember which place but it was $75 with free shipping instead of the local store $155 and had to be ordered anyway.

hanman

A Timkin bearing or the actual hub?

hanman

Oh this just keeps getting better. I just priced a new bearing from VB. $80 for a pair. Plus shipping.