7thHeaven

I am gonna view a 94 FD Touring in 3 hours. The lowest he'll go is $ 18K.....She's got approx. 34,000 miles.

Do you think it's overpriced? I'll post again when I come back from my trip!

Thanks in advance guys.....it's been too long a wait for me...I am all hyped up..lol!

Also, I got a boost gauge but it's all brand new in the box...should I bring it along to test out the numbers? If so, what should I be looking for?

Question #2 : When test-driving, what should I look out for? Should I take it to a Mazda dealer for a compression test too?

Question #3 : Should I rev the RPMs real hard ? I am afraid that the owner might be pissed if I do so....

Cheers

7thHeaven

......

P'cola FD

Take the boost gauge, and see that you are getting a boost pattern of 10-8-10 with the 8 at the 4,500 rpm mark. Get him to take it to a mazda or other dealership and get a full vehicle inspection. Then make your choice.

Pressurized

$18k sounds pretty cheap for that low of mileage...if it's good shape and runs strong, then it's a deal.

You should always take a boost guage with you to test the pattern...you should get a 10-8-10. Most people will tell you to get a compression test done as well, but with low miles and having been taken care of, you can probably overlook it.

It just depends on you. You can get a full vehicle inspection and all that jazz, or if you have the bucks just buy the car if you like it, low mileage FD's don't come around too often, it would be worth any problems that might arise.

Good luck!

zooq

i think thats a good price for the milage, i paid 20k for a 93 with 30k miles.

7thHeaven

Thanks so much for the replies...I am leaving the house in an hour's time...

Just made an appointment with a Mazda dealer and they want me to pay $ 55 for a compression test.

Anyways, I'll take the boost gauge but I am not sure how to install it.

Read it somewhere that I should install it temporarily at the intake where there is a cap visible. But somehow...not too sure how am I going to see the gauge while I drive...

I'll post a reply once I come back with the details!

Wish me luck

JConn2299

In the Northeast U.S. the Kelley Blue Book lists the private party sale price for that car in "excellent" condition as $16,505. (That's US dollars, obviously.) Very few cars are in excellent condition. When you read the condition qualifications, most cars are rated good, or lower.

There may be a Canadian blue book. If so, I don't know where it is. You can try the U.S. one at:

www.kbb.com

If it were me, and I liked the car very much, I'd offer the guy $16,500. My guess is he overpriced the car as a bargaining tool and is expecting to reduce the price. When you sell a car, getting someone to show up with cash in hand to actually buy it can be a difficult thing.
So, offer him $16.5k. If he accepts, you can feel you got the car at a fair price. If he doesn't, then you won't feel like you've been gouged. We recently had a thread on the forum in which people reported their purchase prices. They were lower than you might expect.

Be skeptical of what the seller tells you, and don't be afraid to drive a hard bargain. It means more money in your pocket. Good luck.

7thHeaven

Got back from my trip with my prospective wifey : 1994 FD and I must say that I love the curves on the ride.

It's been almost 6 years since I last saw/sat/driven an FD.

This 1994 has gotta be the nicest, cleanest, stock FD I've ever seen in my life.

I am so estatic right now...don't even know what to say.

Considering an owner of a 300ZX TT for almost 3 years, there's no way in hell the ride I had today was close in comparison to repsonse and handling...

Thanks for all the advice guys! I am going to be a happy man starting next week....

Got Boost?

skunks

hmmm, the guy should not really be mad at you if you drive it hard, he is selling it, why should he care. unless your drifting it or hitting stuff on the road and actually hurting the car, i would think its fine to drive the car hard, just let it warm up first. BTW, you did not mention if the car was a auto or a manual (please god let it be a manual).

just for personal prefernces, i like the 94's cuz they have a better type of paint for the center consoles and door trim, every 94 i have seen has had the paint still on there looking good. on the other hand, i still like my 93 cuz even though its got paint which is pealing, it still cost me about 6-8k less then the 94's and perform the same way

oh yeah, check for clunks comming from the bushings from either the front or the back of the car, its not that expensive of a fix but its a bitch and i have not heard that jimlab will be making anymore of those amazing nylon bushing kits.

I would also suggest you get the compression test, its the only way to check how healthy the engine is.