I have been driving the car since early july. I purchased a PC680 from a forum member. After about two weeks oxidation started forming on the - terminal. Thought it was kinda weird, but the battery performed fine. Then one day about a month after instalation I came out of work and the car wouldn't start. Jump started it and left for home. It died once at a stop light, but then started back up. Got home, shut of the car, then it wouldn't start back up. Figuered it was just the battery so I bought a new one, this time I got a warrenty with it. Installed the battery and everything was back to normal, so I thought. After about another month I started to have the same problem again. This time a assumed that there must be another problem some were. I have a PFC so I started to moniter the volts. When this battery started to malfunction I noticed the volts bouncing from 13.8-12.7 Alsowhen it finally died on me, When I would turn the key to the on position the volts were at 13.+ volts, then when I would try to start the car thay would drop to 6 volts and every thing would shut off. Tried to jump start it again and the volts had the same readings even while connected to another car through jumper cables connected directly to the battery terminals and also trying a common ground. I actually couldn't jump start it. So after this I took the alternater to be tested and it came up in good condition (only has 34,000 miles on it). looked through the wiring and nothing came up funny. Had the battery replaced under warrenty. By the way I had both battery's tested and they both came up bad by the odessey dealer. Reinstalled every thing and was good for only about two weeks this time. This time I noticed the PFC had a peak volts of over 15 when I started to have the fluctuation of the volts in the 12's and 13's. Thae car ended up dying at a stop sighn again. Luckly some one with jumper cables stop and helped me out. It did not start on the first try, but eventually started and I was able to make it back home. Pullled it into the garrage back werds and shut it off. tried to start it again and it was definently dead.

Sorry for the long read but I wanted to explain the problem fully. Now am going to try and get this 2 week old battery replaced under warrenty. I really need to fix the problem before I get another one.

Possble problems:

1. Aternater does charge but is over charging some how. Would the teste to see if it was good, check for this?
2. A major short somewere.
3. these batterys are ****.
4. Maybe heat is killing it?

Here is were it is mounted:

 

have you tested your ALT? Maybe the voltage regulator **** the bed. Yank it out and have it tested.

 

Nice engine bay

 

I had the ALT tested at a local rebuilder. The test came back good. Is there a seperate voltage regulater. Or is this inside the ALT. I would think they would of tested this. Should the ALT ever put out more than 14 volts?

 

Thanks, Gotta love your sig!

 

Wheres your coil relocation bracket?

 

Hey Brandon, I would say the battery is ****! I've gone through 2 of these myself and I'm now currently on the 3rd. The ONLY solution thats worked for me is that ever since I installed a second full size battery in the trunk to run my stereo system the battery's been fine.

These batteries completely suck at holding charge and if you don't daily drive your car the battery wears out in no time. I remember reading a thread awhile back regarding this battery and some forum member had a solution for the charge problem. I can't recall exactly what it was off the top of my head, but if you search you might be able to find it. Goodluck.

 

This battery needs to be fully charged before you start using it; otherwise all the normal battery draining components of the car like radio, clock, computer etc. suck the life out of it and you end up in a discharged state. Check the manual and see at what rate you have to charge it (if you just charge it without knowing at how many amps and how long, you run the risk of overcharging and killing it) and always connect it to an automatic maintenance charger to assure that it is always fully charged when not used.

 

I would say the voltage regulator in the alternator is bad causing it to overcharge. If you have a power fc you can monitor the voltage and you may find it is abnormally high. Also, the pc680 is really too small for automotive use. I see nothing but problems with them in these cars.

 

it could be possible that the voltage reg inside the alt is crap, however a valid question is: what kinda electronics are you pushing? Maybe too much for the little battery to handle. I have a battery tender on all my 7's. If you aren't aware, a tender is different than a charger - it will monitor and slowly charge the battery vice a typical tricle charger.

 

Looks like he has underdrive pulleys as well, which wil only further complicated the problem. I would get the larger odyssey battery and relocate it to the rear bins as well as replace/rebuild the alternator.

 

Don't really think it is just the battery's fault, unless you have a huge stereo system in the car. I am running this battery and I have not had any problems with it so far, it even sat for a year and was recharged and was fine.

 

The battery is done. Buy a new one and your problem is solved. These batteries must be put on a trickle charger or the car driven often. Ask me how I know.

I'm tired of it myself and I am looking to do something different.

 

"Trickle Charger." That's the part I was referring to that some people used as a solution. Thanks for the input "tt."

 

Must figure out some of these problems first. Thanks for the bracket though.

 

I exchanged it under warrenty and installed it the next day. Then proceeded to drive it constantly for a couple of weeks before this happened again.

 

I had been watching the PFC. when this happened again.

" Reinstalled every thing and was good for only about two weeks this time. This time I noticed the PFC had a peak volts of over 15 when I started to have the fluctuation of the volts in the 12's and 13's."



Would 15.6 volts be overcharging?

 

The only ICE that I am running is a CD player running the door speakers and the center channel, a wide band, Blitz boost controller and meter. Also still have the factory alarm.

 

Unfortunatly this is the second brand new battery I have gone through in two months. I am pretty sure that the cause of the problem lies elswere. But i am sure that this current battery is cashed.

 

How is your battery mounted? All OEM setups mount the battery using a plastic (non-metal) tray. I don't have a good justification as to why, but I'm sure it's got something to do with the saying "Don't store a battery directly on the ground, or it will discharge. Put it on a block of wood." My PC680 is mounted in a wooden tray/box, and I've had the same one since May 2005. I've let the car sit for 1-2 weeks at a time, with no problems. The only time it discharged was when I was running my window wipers (and washers) for about 5 mins while the engine was off, and then I left the ignition on for about 45 mins after that.

Mounting is a bit ghetto, but it works:


-s-

 

The last time I put in the newest batt. I put some double sidded trim tape and left one side of the tapebacking on. I put it on al sides that the battery made contact with the aluminum tray that I made. I even put the same tape on the hold down in the same fasion. There should be a good 1/16 of space seperating the battery from the tray on all sides.

 

The Odessy is a gel cell, is it not? If so the max voltage you can use to recharge it is ~14.4V, IIRC. Anything more will overcharge and ruin it. There are special chargers sold that limit voltage for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and gel-cells. The 15+ volts that some charging systems put out could ruin it.

Dave

 

Looks to be a dry cell.

http://www.batterystore.com/Odyssey/PC680MJT.htm

 

If you ever change batteries, I would suggest a Duralast Miata Battery. They're small, semi-light and come with a 3 year warranty/7 year pro-rated warranty.

I've had mine for 3 years without any problems.

 

Quote:

(A) Selecting the right charger for your battery
Qualifying portable automotive and powersport chargers for your ODYSSEY battery is a simple two-step process.
Step 1:
Charger output voltage
Determining the charger output voltage is the most important step in the charger qualification process.
If the voltage output from the charger is less than 14.2V or more than 15V for a 12V battery, then do not use the charger.

Unquote

This seems to infer that an automotive alternator could damage the battery if it puts out more than 15 V.

Dave