oorx7

iTrader: (2)

So if when my volts peaked to 15.5-16 for any amount of time. It could have damaged the battery.

Good find dave

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

way too high

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Link? Some info on this jewel?

Thanks.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Any updates on this issue? I also have a similar issue.

Quickfini

iTrader: (6)

15.6V seems pretty high. I use the Hawker Genesis EP series mini battery (similar to the Oddessy), and it's usually between 13.6 and 14.1v according to the PFC.

I put a battery maintainer on my mini battery every once in awhile when I'm not driving my FD. My car isn't daily driven, so it's usually in the garage a lot. My batteries also running a 12" sub and I haven't seen any problems yet. Runs pretty well!

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

SOrry no updates other than. I went and had the alternater rebuilt, and still have the same problem only this time it happened in one night.

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a keyless door system? Is it possible that there is some small but constant drain on your battery? Glove box light on? Courtesy light in the rear compartment? These batteries are very good at holding a charge with no load (despite what some may believe). When they are subject to a small but constant load they will discharge in a hurry.

I would get a meter and measure the amps that the system is pulling when everything is off. Make sure it's close to nothing. The alarm and the head unit will always draw something so pull their fuses before you start.

For what it's worth..

sereneseven

odessy,mini-bat.... etc. suck. i have been dealing with them for years in various race cars and have had to replace them 2-3 times a season...mind this a 10-12 race season. I can't even imagine using them in a street car where i would think reliability would win out over a very small reduction in wieght, move the battery to compartment behind the seats and put a "ROCK" battery in. the "ROCK" has proven to me to be the best smaller lighter battery around. you purchase them through BSR products.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

I just checked out there catalog. Witch battery would you recomend for street use.

At this point I dont care about weight savings from a battery. I will remove it from some were else.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

I am about to face a similar situation. I need either a smaller battery, actually the PC680 was what was reccomened to me. Anyone have any luck with the optima 51R? Or maybe it would just be better to relocate it. Any good "how to" writeups on battery relocation. I found one a few weeks ago but he added lots of extra fuses and things that I do not need.

preludesh2000

iTrader: (1)

i got out my book that came with my battery...says a battery can be stored for 2 years if the below 77 F......also a trickle charger(12v 3 amp) can be left connected to the battery for storage....

charge time for a pc680, that is 100% discharged(11.5 volts) is

2 hours ---on a 10-amp charger
1 hour-----on a 20-amp charger

volt readings .......... state of charge

12.84 or higher ----- 100%
12.50 ----- 75%
12.18 ----- 50%
11.88 ----- 25%

hope this helps out anyone that might need it....

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Ok well I did some more digging and here are two great writeups for anyone on relocating the battery. I think this may be a better fix than going with another PC680. Seems like a lot of ppl have issues with them.

http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm

http://smi-web.stanford.edu/people/moconnor/battery/

Mdessouki

iTrader: (7)

where did you get that battery mount?

sereneseven

I would recommend the "ROCK" #31 w/850cca it should fit pretty nicely in to one of the bins. you may want to ask BSR for dimensions on both the 31 and the 24..either one would work for the electrical side its just a matter of one being a little shorter and thus fitting a little better

and as for the rest of the people who are still thinking of using an odessy,mini-batt,hawker, genisis....type of battery save yourself a whole lot of headaches in the future and stick with a battery with at least 700 cca and can tolerate the abuse that a street car puts on it. replacing/jumping/charging a battery everytime you wanna drive gets really old really fast. I know some people on say they have had no troubles yet....well the key is yet.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

Could you give me, about what the price should be for these. I will try and call them today, but am pretty busy at work and it is easier for me to check the forum.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

Now that is a great write up. I havn't read the whole thing, but the pictures are nice.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I've had the Odyssey PC 900 for years with no real problems. Car sits in the garage sometimes for a couple weeks, and used to be parked outdoors. I think the 680 might just be too small.

FYI, if you try to recharge them, you need to hit them hard. I did kill mine once, and it looked like a dead cell... really low voltage, and the regular trickle car-battery charger didn't put a dent in it. My dad happened to have a charger that is adjustable, so we figured what the hell and hit it with 20-30 amps. It was back in a couple hours... amazing.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

I still have the warenty on my battery, I wonder if they would let me replace it with somthing larger? Any one think that they will be up for this?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I still think you're going about this the wrong way. If you had water leaking through the roof of your house whenever it rained, would you call a plumber? No, you'd call a roofer.


You should focus on finding what's draining your battery. If you don't, you're eventually going to have the same issue with a larger battery, it'll just take longer to resurface. There's a nice writeup in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/battery-drain-496177/


Here's a summary:
After you have confirmed your alternator is charging the battery (14V at the battery when the engine is on), check the Dark Current drain:





1. Turn car off.
2. Turn off everything (lights, radio, etc...)
3. Disconnect a battery lead (does not matter which one)
4. Set your multimeter to read milli-Amps (use the highest scale: 0-200 mA is shown here)
5. Put one lead on car battery and the other lead on battery cable. If you get a negative number, switch the leads.
6. Dark Current draw should be less than 50 milli-Amps.

Assuming your Dark Current is more than 50 mA, here's how to find your draw.
7. Remove fuses, one at a time, keeping an eye on the Dark Current reading.
8. If you take out a fuse and the number changes a lot, you've found the problem. Check what is powered through that fuse circuit.
9. If you have any custom wiring that goes straight to the battery (gauges, stereo stuff) check that first, custom installs are often the culprit. You should really add a fuse to custom work, an easy way is to use two female spade terminals (buy them at Radio Shack or any auto parts store). You can connect one spade terminal to each side of a standard automotive blade-type fuse.


Hope this helps,
-s-

sereneseven

LOL, yeah I'm laughing cuz I have a pc900 that i use in my go kart starter that i bought back in 2003 and it's still holding strong... but the vast majority of them have given me nothing but headaches.

sereneseven

thumbs up to scotty305, absolutley check this but i still am holding strong on my anti odessy view because of many factors in a street car aside from odessy's inherent unreliability. such as leaving a door ajar over night combined with keeping clocks running and other minor drains that happen over night and you wake up to a totally dead car where as if you use a properly sized battery you can ushually leave the dome light on over night and the thing will still crank in the morning. also i read a figure of 15v above and i can assure you mini batts do not like over charging at all and thats pretty high.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

If your refering to my mount? I made it from aluminum L extrusion.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

I am going to check a couple of things as I change the battery.

The problem I seem to be having is while the car is running. Wich lead me to beleave that it was the alternater. Had this rebuilt and had the problem still. Now I have had a couple of people tell me that a bad starter can keep drawing power while the car is on. So I will look into this also. I also am going to check out some of the wiring harnesses, to see if there is any thing I can see wrong.

scotty305, Thanks alot for that advice. Do you think that there would be a way to do this test while the car is running?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

scotty305, Thanks alot for that advice. Do you think that there would be a way to do this test while the car is running?

- Yes and no.

1. When the car is running, there is a LOT more current flowing than most multimeters are capable of measuring. You'll want to use a clamp-style ammeter for currents above 10A. (Sears sells them for about $60, be sure to look for one that can measure DC Amps, not just AC) Clamp meters are nice because you don't need to break the circuit, so it's much safer.


2. When the car is running, the alternator should be supplying more current to the system than the battery. The current flowing through the battery terminals should be pretty low, but you I still wouldn't advise measuring it with a multimeter.

-s-