Grizzly

Hi guys.

I've Just done a rebuild on a 93 Fd, All is good with the Motor itself (Comp tested between 8.1 & 8.3 on both Rotors) It does'nt use water and it runs over 3k Fine.

The Problem is it won't idle evenly under 1500rpm (just runs for a few seconds then the idle drops to around 3-400 rpm and it dies) the Other thing is it floods every time i turn it off, so its a pain to get started.

I have spent the last few Hours searching and found similar faults being tracked down to Air temp or Water Temp senders. Thing is how would i tell if this was the problem with mine?

Because i've just rebuilt it i've got all these things going round in my head, maybe i've connected the crank position sender up wrong?? or pulled pins out of a Plug or moisture in something that should'nt have??

I know for a fact its not an Air leak, I spent allot of time making sure all the Manifold gaskets are spot on and the vac pipes are in good condition and going to the right places.

Its just winding me up because of the length of time i spent building it up and its not helping.

I'm going to have another look tomorrow so if anyone has any ideas or Has seen something like this before i would really Appreciate your help.

Grizzly

I'm going to see if my ECU gives me any fault Codes, Where will i find the Conversion? (I belive it give the code in Light flashes, is there a list of the faults on the net?)

Cheers.
Chris

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, here are the codes:

http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

However, depending on where your car came from, it may or may not have the check engine light on the dash as some JDM versions did have it:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/there-any-chance-read-ecu-codes-without-ecl-238994/

Grizzly

Thanks for that.

This defo has a Diagnostic box on the Inner wing, This car is a jap import (its a late 93 R2)

I'm realy hoping it shows a fault up or i'm screwed. I'm rapidly running out of Ideas.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, you'll have the diagnotics box. The question is whether you'll have the check engine light on the dash to be able to count the light flashes.

Grizzly

Is there an Alternative if i don't have the light? (what does it look like and does it come on at any time during start up?)

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The alternate is in that link I provided above. It discusses how to hook up an LED to read the flashes. Here are a few shots of the check engine light (referred to here on the forum as CEL for short) on a US car:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...t/MVC-002F.JPG
http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...t/MVC-003F.JPG

Grizzly

Whooo Yep got one of those lights

Grizzly

Ok, I've done the test and the Light stayed on solid (No flashes) so i did it the other way round (multi meter across B+ and Fen and its solid too.

This is a little confusing? Does this mean there is No codes or an ECU fault?

Grizzly

After some searching i've found this.


1.) Remains on} Damaged diagnostic module or poor connection of diagnostic module connector

2.) Flashes 3 times} Open circut or poor connection of power source circuit

3.) Flashes 5 times} Damaged D-sensor (D-sensor ON)

4.) Flashes 10 times} Damaged diagnostic module (system-down fuse burnt)

5.) Flashes 4 times} Damaged S-sensor

6.) Flashes 6 times} Damaged air-bag module or poor connection of clock spring connector

7.) Flashes 9 times} Open circuit between diagnostic module and D-sensor

As my car is Remains on should i be looking at the ECU/Earths for the ECU/Conections too the ECU? Or is it just my Diagnostics plug is dead?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

So let me try and understand what you are seeing. When you start the car, the Check Engine Light is on constantly? And when you check for codes, it just stays solid?

Grizzly

Right this is the story, this morning i tried the Code test (with the engine off) the Light came on and stayed on. I have since done some SERIOUS searching and found if the ECU is not properly earthed it will give that fault code, So i have put a Jump lead from the Neg on the Battery to the Body of the ECU.

Now when i check the codes it Flashes once then goes off. Problem is I can't get it running to find out if its Cured it becouse its now very Flooded. I've done all the usaly stuff to unflood it but its having none of it.

So i have started to loose my temper so have taken the Plugs out and left it to dry out a bit , I'll have another go tomorow.

Grizzly

Bit of an Update, Well it seems a bit more Serious than i thought.

Spent all morning checking all the sensors where working properly and stuff like Plug leads where the Correct way round etc.

Anyway long story short, I decided to tow it Round the Block as it was Proper Flooded. First time round it was Poping and missing as you would expect, Next time round it started to act like the engine was getting Tighter as it warmed up a bit?? so i stoped and Turned it over by Hand and there was a Loud noise (sounds like a Dry bearing). So at this point i took the Air pump and PS belt off (put the Decat Pulleys on with new water pump belt) and tried it again, Exactly the same (Goes tighter and makes a dry bearing noise).

My first thought was S**t i've forgot to put the Key in the Crank for the Oil pump drive (But if i take the Pulley of the front of the engine i can see it in place. The only other thing Oil related i've not checked is the OMP pump? But i can't see how that would make the engine go tight?

Anyway at this point i was one step of Cutting my Rists so i've put it away. I'm not sure what on earth is going on now but when it being towed (poping and Banging) there was Blue smoke coming out the back and there seems so be oil being pumped round.

Anyway what ever i've missed or done i've got a real Problem.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't sound good. You might try to remove the exhaust manifold and then see if you can peak inside for a look. I check for any metal shaving or anything. If you find some, time to pull the engine back out.

Grizzly

I'm realy Confused, The Engine its self was built a few weeks ago and had New Oil Pump, Pump Chain, the lot. I've checked the Key is in the Crank and there is Oil presure.

I'm a Bit P**sed off tbh this is my Third FD engine and before that 9 or so Turbo 2's, i don't know how oil Starvation would cause it not to Idle under 1500? Plus i ran it for 30 mins without a problem no Knocking or extra Temp etc? But Since it Flooded yeasterday its become like this?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

It might not be oil starvation. Any number of things could have happened during the rebuild process. However, at this point, you don't know what is going on. I would suggest that you peak inside the exhaust ports first. If you don't see any metal shavings, then things my not be so bleak.

Grizzly

Right i'm getting oil for sure (i took the oil presure sender out and turned it over oil shot out at quite a rate) also unscrewed the Front Crank pulley bolt (carfully) to see if the Thermopellet is the correct way round and there is some oil in the Crank too.

There is Traces of oil around the Banjo bolts at the base of the OMP lines but i have Braided hoses on so its a bit hard to tell how much is going through (by the amount of oil that came out when i unbolted the lines not alot)

Grizzly

Had another look at it, The Noise is coming from the Front of the Engine around the Front Pulley area.

What oil's the front assembly?