retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

As the title states: I need some guidance on breaking in my new motor...
(I'm sure they're stupid questions for most)

How many miles do i need to break it in for? Where should i keep the rpm's? How low should i keep the boost? etc..

When I bought my fd the previous owner told me to premix 4oz of 100% sythetic 2stroke oil w/ the gas. I always did so. I know that's the topic of much debate, my question isn't wether or not to do so, (because i plan on it) but should i do it on the fresh motor, or wait until it's broken in? Also, what about the use of synthetic vs mineral oil?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brent

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

search function will help u not get flamed.. its been talked about plenty of times

skir2222

1000 miles, and do your best not to boost at all.

What are your mods?

synthetic vs mineral oil has been discussed you can use the search function for that but mazda says only to use mineral oil but many people have different opinions.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Whatever, a lot of the "break-in" procedures are based on anecdotal evidence. Talk to the guy who built your engine. I hear that Kevin of Rotary Resurrection has a good rep for rotary engines, so check out his procedures: CLICK

Check items 10 & 11.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

that is a great writeup

Trev

retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

Mods are:
Engine was built with brand new housings & streetported, RA Super seals w/ race springs, atkins master kit (minus the seals & springs...), & new twins.
I have an ARC induction w/ K&N filter, hks ssqv, 3" turbo back exhaust, air pump pulley delete kit, aluminum ast, koyo rad, and probably a few things i'm forgetting.

To Clarify About the Synthetic vs Mineral Question:
My question wasn't which one to use during regular driving, (I plan on using the sythetic), but which to use while breaking in. I've heard that mineral oil expediates break in time. Basically just asking about the validity of that statement.

I have searched the topic somewhat extensively. However, as I'm sure you are all aware of, one must wade through countless pages of this topic to get a fraction of the answer desired. I appreciate any and all help/input/feedback. Thanks Guys.

~Brent

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

put 5w20 weight oil in it and run it for a few hours down the highway at 70mph in 2nd gear...it will help break it in quicker

j/k

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

I used castrol GTX mineral 20w50 to break mine in.

Trev

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, use mineral oil during break-in. Shops like Racing Beat have commented that it takes much more time to break the engine in using synthetic oil.

ferragame

iTrader: (1)

Yep, there is much debate on the oil issue. I also run Castrol GTX 20w-50 in the motor and use Klotz 2 stroke syn. as premix.

Also, I didn't see you mention it but are you still runing the oil metering pump. When I bought my FD from the previous owner, he neglected to tell me the OMP was removed and I would therefore HAVE to run premix. I ran thru two tanks of gas before I realized that (which might explain my blown Apex seal).

retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

that's a pretty heavy oil. what weight do you regularly use?

thank you!

retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

the OMP was already removed when i bought my car. i was running MOTUL syn 2stroke oil as premix. but will be using protek r when she's fixed.

retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it.

rx7goomba

Save some $$$ on the protek stuff...its just rebadged.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=protek

showoff

break it in on the dyno

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

Don't you mean "break it" on the dyno?

showoff

No sir I don't...I meen break it in on the dyno.....seemed st8 forward enough.....

sandsurfr2

Im in the same boat as you, im breaking in my new engine, people have told me 1000 - 2000 miles with no boost

break it in on the dyno? I thought you cant dyno until engine is broke in? because i need mu car dyno tuned

showoff

i meen u can ask around n get recommendations...its hard to get any hard facts on the matter, its more of a preference thing... ive seen people recommend 1000-2000miles with no boost.... ive also seen people rebuild there motors let it idle for a while, go for a drive, come back change the oil and hop on the dyno

zinx

iTrader: (3)

I made 512 rwhp with about 400 miles on my new motor. Break-in for me is driving around for 50-100 miles, change the oil, start getting into the boost and tuning.

retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

i had someone tell me to take it super easy, no boost, for 1k miles then change the oil, and then red line every gear. i dunno....

Also, motor will be streetported, it has an arc intake , and 3inch turbo-back exhaust (no cat...), air pump pulley delete kt.... i have the stocker ecu still in; am i in danger of running too lean and possibly blowing the motor again?

rd_turbo

iTrader: (4)

You really shouldn't do this! Get yourself a Power FC and get your car properly tuned to benefit from your mods and most importantly to prevent a repeat engine failure. You're asking for trouble if you run your stock ECU with what you've just described.

retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

that's what i was afraid of. pfc's out to just grow on trees.....

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

A couple of random points and questions:

were new rotor and stat gear bearings installed during your build?

run 20w50 oil year round out there at the NTC, mineral oil for breakin and synth therafter. Edit: I spent two rotations out there in the winter and know it can get *****-cold, so when temps drop down below the 50s I tend to switch to 10w30 synth. www.rx7.com sells Idemitsu oil, which is the only product I use.

You'll want around 1.5 oz's premix for every gallon of gas.

There's nothing wrong with a little boost on breakin, how do you think shops verify the proper function of the stock seq twins before a car with a new engine leaves?

Get a power fc yesterday, and I hope your wastegate is ported, or boost creep might make your life miserable.

retaliate1st

iTrader: (3)

just barely used rotors were installed (couldn't afford brand new), e-shaft replaced, all bearings replaced, and exhaust intake and wastegate were ported. if you use synthetic oil, won't the omp need to be removed? at least my understanding was synth oil could not be used w/ omp. <--- my mechanic recommends the installation of an omp on the new motor. <--what do you guys think? *i'm saving my pennies for a power fc.