My setup plan for a front mount
08-03-11, 08:43 AM
#1
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My setup plan for a front mount
So many people dont suggest a front mount in Florida since it is so hot, but I feel that the more stuff you leave inside of your hood will create more heat. I have drawn out what i want my setup to be like.
Let me know what you guys think
Let me know what you guys think
08-03-11, 09:31 AM
#3
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08-03-11, 09:41 AM
#4
cool concept. i though about this for my friend 8 since the rads just blow hot air and heat up the engine bay fasttttt. but im kinda skeptical about your duct. i dont think there is enough room.. unless its a severe angle. you would probably have to mount the IC infront of the front frame like the greddy fmic does to gain enough room
08-03-11, 09:51 AM
#6
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cool concept. i though about this for my friend 8 since the rads just blow hot air and heat up the engine bay fasttttt. but im kinda skeptical about your duct. i dont think there is enough room.. unless its a severe angle. you would probably have to mount the IC infront of the front frame like the greddy fmic does to gain enough room
Yeah for sure. The IC will go all the way up front and then the bumper will be trimmed back to fit around the IC.
I have see the plastic ducs they make for the inside of the hood to let air out of the of the vented hood. The only issue I see me running into is making some mods for the IC piping to place the Radiator sit at the angle I desire.
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08-03-11, 10:55 AM
#8
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The Blitz FMIC will work great if you can find one. I have one, it's small enough to where it lets plenty of air pass through the sides and bottom to get to the radiator. You do have to re-position the radiator, but it still first slanted like the original fitment, only a little higher up.
I also think the Apexi unit is similar
I also think the Apexi unit is similar
08-03-11, 01:05 PM
#10
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I've done something similar to my track car.
Works pretty well until I start cranking up the boost on hot days at the track (110°F @ 15psi) I get up to around 118°C in water temp after about 15 min of hard driving.
Cooler days(80s°F) at 12 psi at the track I get a pretty solid 105°C temperature.
Street driving, won't budge over 87°C (temp setting on PFC for fan activation).
Works pretty well until I start cranking up the boost on hot days at the track (110°F @ 15psi) I get up to around 118°C in water temp after about 15 min of hard driving.
Cooler days(80s°F) at 12 psi at the track I get a pretty solid 105°C temperature.
Street driving, won't budge over 87°C (temp setting on PFC for fan activation).
08-03-11, 01:15 PM
#11
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I've done something similar to my track car.
Works pretty well until I start cranking up the boost on hot days at the track (110°F @ 15psi) I get up to around 118°C in water temp after about 15 min of hard driving.
Cooler days(80s°F) at 12 psi at the track I get a pretty solid 105°C temperature.
Street driving, won't budge over 87°C (temp setting on PFC for fan activation).
Works pretty well until I start cranking up the boost on hot days at the track (110°F @ 15psi) I get up to around 118°C in water temp after about 15 min of hard driving.
Cooler days(80s°F) at 12 psi at the track I get a pretty solid 105°C temperature.
Street driving, won't budge over 87°C (temp setting on PFC for fan activation).
08-03-11, 01:25 PM
#12
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The lip is part of the bumper, picked it up locally. Don't know what type of bumper that is or who makes it, maybe someone will recognize it.
09-05-11, 08:28 AM
#16
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Here is what I have so far
Made this out of card board to get an idea. I will create it either out of Fiberglass or Aluminum
The apexi pipes being cut to fit under the bumper. Did my best to try and maintain the airflow. As you can also see the Koyo rad installed in the stock location
The 99 bumper over the ic to make sure everything clears. I only have to cut the the bumper opening about a half in.
Hope you enjoy and i will keep you guys posted
Made this out of card board to get an idea. I will create it either out of Fiberglass or Aluminum
The apexi pipes being cut to fit under the bumper. Did my best to try and maintain the airflow. As you can also see the Koyo rad installed in the stock location
The 99 bumper over the ic to make sure everything clears. I only have to cut the the bumper opening about a half in.
Hope you enjoy and i will keep you guys posted
09-13-11, 10:00 AM
#18
front mounts are not superior to v-mounts and even a larger stock mount intercooler.
coolant temp increases generally result in more blown motors than the slight IAT increases.
it's easier to lower IATs than it is coolant temps anyways, hence why so many have switched to water/methanol/ethanol injection.
it rather bothers me seeing so many FDs running around with front mounts and increasingly more every year while i have been advocating going away from them for years.
coolant temp increases generally result in more blown motors than the slight IAT increases.
it's easier to lower IATs than it is coolant temps anyways, hence why so many have switched to water/methanol/ethanol injection.
it rather bothers me seeing so many FDs running around with front mounts and increasingly more every year while i have been advocating going away from them for years.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-13-11 at 10:03 AM.
09-13-11, 11:42 AM
#19
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front mounts are not superior to v-mounts and even a larger stock mount intercooler.
coolant temp increases generally result in more blown motors than the slight IAT increases.
it's easier to lower IATs than it is coolant temps anyways, hence why so many have switched to water/methanol/ethanol injection.
it rather bothers me seeing so many FDs running around with front mounts and increasingly more every year while i have been advocating going away from them for years.
coolant temp increases generally result in more blown motors than the slight IAT increases.
it's easier to lower IATs than it is coolant temps anyways, hence why so many have switched to water/methanol/ethanol injection.
it rather bothers me seeing so many FDs running around with front mounts and increasingly more every year while i have been advocating going away from them for years.
Everyone has their likes and dislikes. I dont think your motor is going to blow cause of a front mount!
09-13-11, 11:46 AM
#20
I went with this setup because the fins on the apexi core are huge compared to many of the others. I also have my setup so the radiator sits in the stock location. I am making a scoop under the intercooler and also on the sides. I dont think it will impact temps that much by having a front mount.
Everyone has their likes and dislikes. I dont think your motor is going to blow cause of a front mount!
Everyone has their likes and dislikes. I dont think your motor is going to blow cause of a front mount!
leaning the radiator will help it's efficiency with the air it is getting but only by a small amount, it's still dealing with summer heat in wintertime and in summer it's crying mercy. at least you're trying to get some cool air to it, which is better than most people's setup. if anything i would try to divert the intercooler air around the radiator and let the cooling fans try to pull cool air from wherever possible.
and as a side note, it gets old when people want opinions but only hand pick the ones they want to hear. i think you might be surprised at how many cars have popped a motor due to high ICTs.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-13-11 at 11:52 AM.
09-13-11, 12:10 PM
#21
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I was planning on doing this a while ago but never had the time to tackle this task. I see so many people placing the apexi right where it goes and standing their rads right behind it. That is a no no for me. Air will only travel up if you give it a path. With the rad standing straight there is no way to make the air come up.
I never said i didnt like opinions against what I built. That is good and always help you make things better.
When i said "that i had never heard of anyone popping a motor cause of a front mount" it is true. My boy has a greddy front mount with the rad behind his IC and after 2 years the car is running in HOT florida.
I always keep my eye on my stock water temp gauge, the PFC and also my prosport water gauge. If I see the temps are creeping to something i am not used to seeing i take it easy on the car.
I wanted to drive the car like it is now so when i make the panel for ducting i can see if there is a significant change or not.
I never said i didnt like opinions against what I built. That is good and always help you make things better.
When i said "that i had never heard of anyone popping a motor cause of a front mount" it is true. My boy has a greddy front mount with the rad behind his IC and after 2 years the car is running in HOT florida.
I always keep my eye on my stock water temp gauge, the PFC and also my prosport water gauge. If I see the temps are creeping to something i am not used to seeing i take it easy on the car.
I wanted to drive the car like it is now so when i make the panel for ducting i can see if there is a significant change or not.
09-13-11, 12:13 PM
#22
you might try a splitter to at least split the air to the radiator so that it doesn't constantly get hot air across the whole core. such as a panel that directs the IC air to the top half of the radiator as the bottom half needs the best cooling it can get as that is where the hot water enters.
only real thing i see you having difficulty with is the radiator is wider than any FMIC core, so the pipes will have to go directly over the radiator top panel, which will require an extreme angle and you may not have enough room to move the oil cooler lines and even omit the battery tray crossmember.
only real thing i see you having difficulty with is the radiator is wider than any FMIC core, so the pipes will have to go directly over the radiator top panel, which will require an extreme angle and you may not have enough room to move the oil cooler lines and even omit the battery tray crossmember.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-13-11 at 12:16 PM.
09-13-11, 12:31 PM
#23
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you might try a splitter to at least split the air to the radiator so that it doesn't constantly get hot air across the whole core. such as a panel that directs the IC air to the top half of the radiator as the bottom half needs the best cooling it can get as that is where the hot water enters.
only real thing i see you having difficulty with is the radiator is wider than any FMIC core, so the pipes will have to go directly over the radiator top panel, which will require an extreme angle and you may not have enough room to move the oil cooler lines and even omit the battery tray crossmember.
only real thing i see you having difficulty with is the radiator is wider than any FMIC core, so the pipes will have to go directly over the radiator top panel, which will require an extreme angle and you may not have enough room to move the oil cooler lines and even omit the battery tray crossmember.
I was thinking about doing what you suggested and then getting the holes on the side of the IC to go around and to the rad as well as the air from the bottom.
By Christmas I wan to have a vented hood to let all that hot air out of the hood.
I also wanted to make a water tank and on really hot days spray water with a windshield sprayer onto the rad to cool it down even more.
09-14-11, 05:05 PM
#24
When I was running my Greddy as intended (FMIC) I had designed an undertray out of aluminum just as you are planning on doing. Basically identical. The Greddy core is larger than the core you have having no extra space on the sides of the intercooler core to get to the radiator. Running a Koyo radiator in the orientaion setup utilizing the Greddy radiator brackets my coolant temps never looked too bad. But I also never tracked the car with this setup and I was living in Colorado and Oklahoma during this time.
Yes, people loose motors all the time to increased coolant temps resulting in seal failure and requiring a rebuild. Some of these (few, but it does happen and it only makes sense particularly in hot environments) are infact due to FMIC's blocking adequate amounts of cool air getting to the radiator. I am not trying to attack your decision, just don't want you to be under the impression that it cannot happen from a FMIC.
I will say that after chopping up and rewelding my intercooler and radiator into a vmount configuation my coolant temps are even better and never rise. Even when driving the car hard down here in Florida with a stock hood... Honestly, Vmount is the best way to go and it appears you can weld so this conversion using your current equiptment would take little investment and a day or so worth of work. Why do you want the FMIC so badly? Because they look cool behind the front bumper? (why I purchased mine to be completely honest)
One more small bit of advice on vented hoods. They all will shed heat when at a stand still in traffic or after parking the car. HOWEVER, very few are designed aerodynamically correct to actually extract heat from the engine bay when at speed. So do your research before investing in an expensive hood, unless all you are after is aesthetic appearance.
Yes, people loose motors all the time to increased coolant temps resulting in seal failure and requiring a rebuild. Some of these (few, but it does happen and it only makes sense particularly in hot environments) are infact due to FMIC's blocking adequate amounts of cool air getting to the radiator. I am not trying to attack your decision, just don't want you to be under the impression that it cannot happen from a FMIC.
I will say that after chopping up and rewelding my intercooler and radiator into a vmount configuation my coolant temps are even better and never rise. Even when driving the car hard down here in Florida with a stock hood... Honestly, Vmount is the best way to go and it appears you can weld so this conversion using your current equiptment would take little investment and a day or so worth of work. Why do you want the FMIC so badly? Because they look cool behind the front bumper? (why I purchased mine to be completely honest)
One more small bit of advice on vented hoods. They all will shed heat when at a stand still in traffic or after parking the car. HOWEVER, very few are designed aerodynamically correct to actually extract heat from the engine bay when at speed. So do your research before investing in an expensive hood, unless all you are after is aesthetic appearance.
09-14-11, 06:57 PM
#25
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When I was running my Greddy as intended (FMIC) I had designed an undertray out of aluminum just as you are planning on doing. Basically identical. The Greddy core is larger than the core you have having no extra space on the sides of the intercooler core to get to the radiator. Running a Koyo radiator in the orientaion setup utilizing the Greddy radiator brackets my coolant temps never looked too bad. But I also never tracked the car with this setup and I was living in Colorado and Oklahoma during this time.
Yes, people loose motors all the time to increased coolant temps resulting in seal failure and requiring a rebuild. Some of these (few, but it does happen and it only makes sense particularly in hot environments) are infact due to FMIC's blocking adequate amounts of cool air getting to the radiator. I am not trying to attack your decision, just don't want you to be under the impression that it cannot happen from a FMIC.
I will say that after chopping up and rewelding my intercooler and radiator into a vmount configuation my coolant temps are even better and never rise. Even when driving the car hard down here in Florida with a stock hood... Honestly, Vmount is the best way to go and it appears you can weld so this conversion using your current equiptment would take little investment and a day or so worth of work. Why do you want the FMIC so badly? Because they look cool behind the front bumper? (why I purchased mine to be completely honest)
One more small bit of advice on vented hoods. They all will shed heat when at a stand still in traffic or after parking the car. HOWEVER, very few are designed aerodynamically correct to actually extract heat from the engine bay when at speed. So do your research before investing in an expensive hood, unless all you are after is aesthetic appearance.
Yes, people loose motors all the time to increased coolant temps resulting in seal failure and requiring a rebuild. Some of these (few, but it does happen and it only makes sense particularly in hot environments) are infact due to FMIC's blocking adequate amounts of cool air getting to the radiator. I am not trying to attack your decision, just don't want you to be under the impression that it cannot happen from a FMIC.
I will say that after chopping up and rewelding my intercooler and radiator into a vmount configuation my coolant temps are even better and never rise. Even when driving the car hard down here in Florida with a stock hood... Honestly, Vmount is the best way to go and it appears you can weld so this conversion using your current equiptment would take little investment and a day or so worth of work. Why do you want the FMIC so badly? Because they look cool behind the front bumper? (why I purchased mine to be completely honest)
One more small bit of advice on vented hoods. They all will shed heat when at a stand still in traffic or after parking the car. HOWEVER, very few are designed aerodynamically correct to actually extract heat from the engine bay when at speed. So do your research before investing in an expensive hood, unless all you are after is aesthetic appearance.
I however am starting to change my decicions because today driving from work the water temps got up as high as 95. I am using water wetter a bit of coolant for lubrication and distilled water in the system. My fans were working, but i have not done anything as far as making scoops. I am also missing the duct for the oil cooler. I could not find it when putting on the bumper. I had to drive it today cause i work one day a week in the office and the rest from home.
The temps def took a little bit to get up to that and also it was on the hiway the whole way.
I also never said that a front mount cant blow an engine, but that is why I always keep an eye on my temp.
Thanks for the advise