4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

I'm disabling and blockinf off the OMP.

Mobil 1 15w-50 in the crankcase
Purolator Pure1 filter

some type of TCW3 oil (perhaps yamalube) at 1oz:1gallon


and then every month or so I'll mix in an additional 4oz of MMO to help clean up deposits.

Comments are welcome but I am wondering a couple things:

Would the occasional MMO treatment be useful?

Can I go to changing my oil and filter every 3k miles?



Will the synthetic oil help to lower oil temps at all? I'm also running the groundzero aluminum oil pan which helps cooling with the fins and by holding an extra quart of oil. I'm hoping to be able to run the car pretty hard on the street (making around 400whp) without needing to upgrade my stock single oil cooler. Comments on this?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If all you are doing is running the car on the street, IMO, the single oil cooler will be just fine. However, even with synthetic oil (which will lower your oil temps some), the stock single oil cooler probably won't be enough for tracking the car hard even with the GZ oil pan.

Have you thought about this:

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

since you are removing the OMP?

As for the oil filter, I typically don't change my filter with each oil change. However, I do change my oil more frequently than 3000 miles (I run heavier oils on the track than the street) so I do end up changing my filter about every 3k.

nopistons94

stock filter works the best

DamonB

Can't use that if you are removing the OMP because the OMP must still be in place to actually pump the oil into and through the oil injectors. The RA adaptor merely allows you to plumb a seperate source of oil to the OMP. If you have no OMP you can have no oil injection of any kind, you can only premix.

4CN Air, why are you removing the OMP?

jic

iTrader: (1)

thats what i use...but ive always wanted to try the K&N one
just rather be safe than sorry

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Bummer, I thought that was a complete replacement. I guess I should read the whole page next time.

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't buy the K&N filter, IMO any decent filter will work fine at filtering your oil when you change it every 300 miles (and the oil every 1000), the main feature that is present in higher end filters is the anti-drainback valve. The PURE1 has this and the filter is only like $3-4. Anyone who pays $10+ for a K&N or Mobil 1 is an idiot who thinks high prices mean quality (IMHO).

well right now i change my oil, Valvoline VR1 20w-50, every 1000 miles and change the purolator filter ever 3000. But i was thinking since my oil won't be consumed or diluted with the deletion of the OMP I could change it a little less often (also since it'll be full synthetic, it's twice the price of the valvoline)


I deleted the OMP pump because:

1.) my lines were bad
2.) I don't want to leave the life of my engine in the hands of a pump which I have no idea the condition of
3.) I want to run synthetic oil for it's benefits and also 2 cycle oil for it's benefits
4.) I've read some info about the two types of oil delivery and have found that even mazda agrees premixing is superior but not as practical
5.) it unclutters my engine bay even further