Alright well took a total of about 2 days + 5 days of waiting for parts and my check to clear .

Anyways total cost around next to nothing because I already has most of the silicone. I bought new couplers, heavy duty ****.

Tip: Turbo Control Actuator and Turbo Precontrol actuators both HAVE TO BE OPENED. If not you will barely get 5psi even with the wastegate CLOSED!
Tip2: I highly suggest wrapping the down pipe. Underhood temps were insanely lower.
Tip3: I did not port wastegates and I got only a 1psi creep with a downpipe and gutted cat ONLY
Tip4: NEVER RUN ONLY WITH A DOWNPIPE AND GUTTED CAT. The backfire sounds like a high caliber pistol going off under your a$$!

Make sure you cap everything.

Y Pipe actutor should be removed and butterfly gone. I used JB weld and it holds perfect. I JB Welded the inside and sanded it down to give it a nice polished look.


My Engine Bay


Rats nest, what rats nest =P


Y Pipe with no actutor and my UBER Thermaflex Couplers


Coat Hangers Holding Open the Turbo Control and Pre-Control


Downpipe Wrapped. Lets off a funny smell.

 

Best part of the mod!

 

BTW: That coat hanger is not going to hold for long connected like that.

Also, what's up with the solenoid rack and everything else still under the UIM?

Plus, clipped WG or PC solenoid wiring or is that just something else?

I don't know why you were only seeing 5 psi with wastegate fully closed and TPC closed - I see normal boost with TPC closed.

 

Glad to see ya finally figured it out and got it running right.

 

Fatman...,

What rpm does your car build max boost? Just curious..

Mine hits 13-14 psi by 3800 rpm.

 

Just about the same, but Im using the Hope Depot Boost Controller, I have a feeling that with a REAL boost controller I can probably spool as fast as 3000 with just downpipe and gutted cat. I was thinking of running like that when I go to the track. Just to be louder than the ferrari that is usually there =P

 

1: The coat hangers are tight I know they look loose, but their pretty dam good.

2. The only thing still under the selenoid rack are 4 selenoids and the two under the manifold just so I do not get any errors codes. All the clips are still on from the wiring harness.

3. The valve you see closed came from the pre control but I have a feeling it has vacuum so rather to be safe I closed it. Also the other one coming from radiator is because it broke and I need to get a ne wone.

4. I WAS seeing 5psi before I did the coat hanger things.

 

Thanks for the pics..first i've seen of the non-sequential mod. Good tips.

Raj

 

so you did this on the stock ecu which has maps for sequential or a pfc? Then you used jbweld inside of your y pipe? do you have any clue? the jbweld is going to come off and if you are into some serious boost will probably go through your intercooler or break the fins off and those will go into your motor. There is no way you are getting 13-14psi by 3800 rpms you must have a serious ported motor or very finely tuned car and you have a stock catback? Very confusing glad its working out so well though. I did not see the same results when I tried it and I had an aftermarket ecu, ported motor, a real midpipe and the best flowing intake and catback with pettit rebuilt twins.

 

I have JB on the outside, the word that can happen is the pressure pops it out, with a tensile strength of 1200lbs I highly doubt it.

I have a remappped ECU

Im getting 10 PSI by 3800 and thats with NO CATBACK!
Just Downpipe and Gutted Cat.

My motor is street ported.

I do have an intake as well

 

take it to have it welded. trust me that is going to fly through there any time now. what if you are in vacuum when it happens it may get sucked in. Also you realize that the stock intercooler which already has a hard time doing its job its dying without the duct. There is also a bracket that goes from the frame rail to the intercooler to hold it down. When you are boosting your intercooler it probably flying up and hitting your hood all those couplers flex like crazy at 10lbs. For the boost controller you can make your own ball and spring controller from lowes or home depot. I noticed about 300rpm faster spool and it felt terrific the boost would fly to 12 and stop right there till redline. With my pettit ecu I was able to run with all of the connectors off of the selenoids with no error codes. Not trying to be an *** it just comes natural

 

The JB Weld will not get sucked in during vacuum because its wider than the hole under it. The butter fly hole is half the size of the hole for the actuator.

I plan to fabricate something for the intercooler soon =P
Something with dryer ducting or something. I just saw the other one and it was so pathetic and barely holding on I took it off.

Yes the Intercooler is probably bouncing Im looking into how to hold it down.

The spring type I know are easy to make but I want to simplicity already of an electronic one. I hope to have cash soon to get one.

Being an *** nah I didnt even notice I take it as helpful tips.

 

I did my non seq mod recently and it went awesome, I managed 16.5psi on my first run and she still wanted to climb!! but last night she started stuttering under boost at about 4500rpm, aaaaaaaaa not again!!!
So i just spent 1/2 hr taking my sparkys out to check for ignition problems, whilst I was under the car I noticed that the wire had slipped of the turbo control door leaving it flapping away there at will, now I thought my wire was really sterdy but not -even bro, I'm gonna remove it and do sum welding ASAP!!!

 

One day I'll get around to it. Maybe when Spring Break comes around. I just want to enjo the car for a while its been down for about a month and I miss it =(

BTW Talk about REALLY BAD LUCK
I finish the car and now I CANT DRIVE it, the tag is expired

 

He's talking about the Y-pipe where the CCA goes. Hardly an area you need to have welded.

I made a blockoff plate for mine, but JBW will hold fine.

 

Use steel wire.

Or make a bracket and bolt it to the previous TCA bolt points.

 

Fatman,

Don't forget about your throttle cable brackets. I presume that shot was kind of mid-cleanup anyways.

 

Throttle cable brakets? The one on the manifold? Its there you just cant see it to well.

 

BTW Should my turbo's be CRAZY Loud?

 

my exhaust was annoyingly loud. I couldnt hear the turbos or bov becuase of it haha

 

Ya unless your going to a track, I highly dont suggest running like this, it gave me the worst headache yesterday. I have the wastegate about 90% open and Im getting a perfect 9 to 10 psi. Im not even getting creep.

 

The WG 90% open?!

Let's get our gates nailed down here.

1. TCG.
2. TPC.
3. WG.

I would think your turbo pre-control is open to 90%. WG open to 90% would take FOREVER to generate boost.

FM, my point about the TB cable is this: In the top picture the bracket on the TB itself doesn't appear to be there. In addition the cable should not be making that kind of bend.

This is how mine routes:

 

Forever is like 3800 to 4000 =/ with downpipe and gutted cat =P. I really need a REAL boost controller =/.

I understand now what you say about the throttle cable, I had it behind the UIM cause I honestly forgot how it went. If there is more than one bracket ( i have the one on the UIM connected) then yes something is missing.

 

Hook up your boost gauge to the y-pipe and see what you're really boosting.

Chances are you're killing your turbos if your WG is indeed open 90%.

As far as the other bracket goes, check the cable - it should still be on there.

 

Yes this is something I was concerned about. I will do that. BTW How important is the line coming from the y-pipe. I know it was discussed heavily in the other thread but a conclusion was never reached. (the red one)