Some Pics of my first 7.

Its a 94 W/77k miles. I've always wanted one and finally got one

Pictures

I also have a few questions.
I want to start doing some modifications. I'm thinking a M2 airbox or something like that. With a Midpipe, Downpipe, and N1 Exhaust. Eventually an Intercooler and other misc stuff too. Now I understand that Computer management is needed for this. But I'm a bit confused about the Apex'i PFC. Now do I need the PFC + Commander? It seems a bit expensive?!? And would I be able to tune this myself (what’s involved?) Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Mitch

 

oh my, someone is gonna pop their engine...

dont do the tuning yourself, i you gotta ask these questions, you are not qualified to do it.

just limit your boost to 10psi and you'll be fine on a stock ecu.

P.S. if you think the powerfc is expensive, try taking a look at teh other ecu's out there such as haltec or motec

 

Can't help ya with the tech questions but nice car. Looks pretty clean.

 

Mitch,

Reliability mods first - power mods second.

3000-4000$ for a new engine + install.

You WILL blow it if you start modding away.

1. Boost gauge.
2. Water temp gauge.
3. Downpipe (to remove the nuclear core pre-cat from under the hood)
4. Aftermarket radiator.
5. Power FC.

THEN start thinking about doing power modifications.

 

Also, please change that brake fluid.

 

hey u got the glass roof.. same here! lookz like my old ride, but i have black interior and fron spoiler instead. clean dont tune anythin by urself if u dunno much about the car, it need lot of dough and patience to get this baby into a beast.

 

The Commander controls the PFC. You'll need both.

 

Well, theres a reman motor in the car. It has 12k miles on it.

It has the Silicone hoses, A boost gauge is in the mail along with a water temp gauge soon after.

I didn't mean to come across like I'm just going to slap the mods on the car this will be over time. I'm trying to learn the correct things to do, and do it correctly the first time.

skunks, so your saying the mods, with a boost controller limiting it at stock levels would be ok without engine managment? But doesn't It have to compensate for all the extra flow or else it will lean out correct?

clayne, I'm planning on all the reliablity mods first I forgot to mention that... But included in reliabilty mods is a downpipe? (what is a good one) And I have read about the non-efficent radiators (what is a good Budget one?) And last I must have the Power FC Tuned correct? So then I wouldn't need the commander.

Sorry so many questions I'm tryin to learn all that I can.

Mitch

 

I'll have to get on that lol. Just picked it up 3 days ago, haven't got alot of time to work on it yet. Still needs a few odds and ends but overally I'm pretty pleased with it.

 

Well, some mods are ok on a stock ECU if you have a boost controller keeping things at 10psi. The amount of air entering a stock engine at 10psi, at a given rpm, is exactly equal to the emount of air entering an engine of a highly modded car at 10psi. Theres no way more or less air can get in if the pressures are equal, since volumes don't change.

The issue you'll run into there is spool time. The turbos will spool up much quicker if you have an open exhaust and intake, which will build boost very quickly and cause lean conditions. Similarly, there could be problems at transition, because with less exhaust restriction, there will be no dip in boost to 8psi as the ECU is tuned for.

It makes no difference if the air exits the engine like a bat out of hell, as long as its at 10psi going in you'll be on the safe side of the air/fuel ratio. But that being said, you can't expect to be able to put a full open exhaust on the car and just have a boost controller doing the duty of engine management, you'll be limited pretty much to the intake, dp, catback combo, and maybe a hi-flow cat if you can still keep the boost in check.

 

"It makes no difference if the air exits the engine like a bat out of hell, as long as its at 10psi going in you'll be on the safe side of the air/fuel ratio."

But do not forget: Increased efficiency of exhaust flow = decreased ability for stock wastegate to regulate said exhaust flow.

p.s. Plymouth Sundance... Ladykiller there dude!

 

Are there any good PFC tuners in the Tampa, Fl Area?

 

You sure about this? My understanding is that by opening up the intake and exhaust, you are increasing the volumetric efficiency of the engine. Thus it will displace more air at a given RPM (more power). Using your reasoning, it would seem there would be no advantage of intake and exhaust mods on an NA engine.

 

Check the regional forums for a local tuner.

I think clayne has right first steps except you might be able to wait for a PFC till you have another mod. Read the newbie links - there is lots of good info on there as most of these topics have been discussed repeatedly.

 

call pettit racing or go to pettit racing .com. talk to cam. hes a guru, and close to you, lake pk. fla.

 

Well if you don't plan to mod outside of a radiator, dp, catback, intake - why not look into a reprogrammed ECU? Stage II or III m2 ECU comes tuned. Why pay 1300 for the PFC+commander and then another few hundred for the tune when you could get a reprogrammed that would serve practically the same purpose used for 300 bucks?

 

yea, like nillviod said. I say if you want some reliability, save up and get the M2 stage three kit, since it comes witha lot of stuff you need with the proper ECU programing. but you should still get a boost controller (GReddy profec b seems to work best for stock twins), boost gauge, water gauge, Turbo Timer(if your lazy), and radiator with silicone hoses(hose techniques is good), and you'll be set.