I have just bought an gen 3 rx7 and i have some queastions i really need to be answered.

1) when i start it it revs up to 3000 rpm and slowly decrease til it reaches 1000 rpm, is this normal?

2) When i accelerate it doesnt happen much until 3000 rpm then at ca 4500 rpm it gets very interesting all the way to redline. Ive read that this is how it should be cause the second turbo kicks in at full power at 4500 rpm while on 3000 rpm it's only the first turbo that is working. Is this normal? After what ive read i believe it is and the cars is very fast so i dont think the turbos have to little pressure.

This is all i need to know, otherwise my car works great, and i gotta say i didnt think an rx-7 would have such good handling, it is truly an amazing little machine.

 

Both of those characteristics sound normal for a stock car. AWS (Accelerated Warm-up System) high idle when cold to 3000 RPM and the turbo transition is about 4500 RPM.

You probably should invest in a boost gauge to make sure that your boost pattern is correct.

 

Thanks for the answers, this rests my worries.

 

Tobias, if you blip the throttle as soon as you start the motor, it will not go into AWS. The AWS was designed to warm up the Pre-cat to reduce cold start emmisions. Damn Smog ****'s, anyways I don't think it's a good idea to run the motor at that high of rpm with no/low oil and cold oil at that. The Jspec motors don't come with this option, and you can remove the AWS altogether with either a blockoff kit, or an aftermarket ecu like the Power FC.

eric

 

Tobias:

Both characteristics are normal.

For your second question: You need to realize you are running turbos on your car, and turbos need to spool up before they can really do magic. at low rmps (below 3000rpms) the fd is a fairly weak car, but after 3000 its stronger than a bull.

On a seperate note: the stock turbos run sequentially. Which means that until 4500 your primary turbo supplies you boost, and after that the secondary turbo takes over. so, at all times only one turbo does most/all of the work.

 

If you start the FD in gear, then it will bypass the 3000 rpm startup. I forgot how to disable the cold startup permanently. I believe there is some kind of neutral switch on the ECU that you can bypass. If you do a search on it, you can probably find it.

 

the turbos do STAGE sequentially, but above 4500rpm BOTH turbos are producing boost equally. The second turbo does not "take over " it JOINS IN!

 

It still will go into AWS a bit. If the car is in gear or if you blip the throttle on start, it'll just go to ~2k rpm instead of 3k until the car is is wamed up.

Still should get a boost gauge to be sure both turbos are functioning properly. Difficult to tell the difference between something like 8 and 10psi.

 

twice as nice

 

Thanks for the advice everybody, I can assure you that aswell as a boost gauge other gauges will come, i just have to have the money, cause im really low on it right now until i've sold my '91 Celica. If there's anyone in sweden who is intrerested in a mint condition Celica gti from 1991, contact me.