My goal is somewhere in the 600whp range
bcrotary.com
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: mission
Originally Posted by Black97VR4
Skip at KD said I can run 22lbs+ on the Microtech with their anti-det. We'll see how well that works out though.
I am running 425rwhp now at 12lbs with a microtech the boost map on the ltx8s is only to a max of 20lbs so how can he say 22lbs+? My cars both are Microtech and doweled with Bosh dual pumps 4x 1000 injectors and a serge tank. I have a hard time thinking obout 600+rwhp my ACT +80 six puck clutch brand new slips over 500rwhp @ 6500 rpm. Us Canadians are rotary crazy but we dont have anything streetable over 550rwhp but there are 8 of us in the 400+ club
Originally Posted by iambuzzy
I am running 425rwhp now at 12lbs with a microtech the boost map on the ltx8s is only to a max of 20lbs so how can he say 22lbs+? My cars both are Microtech and doweled with Bosh dual pumps 4x 1000 injectors and a serge tank. I have a hard time thinking obout 600+rwhp my ACT +80 six puck clutch brand new slips over 500rwhp @ 6500 rpm. Us Canadians are rotary crazy but we dont have anything streetable over 550rwhp but there are 8 of us in the 400+ club
bcrotary.com
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: mission
ok mine is a 1988 Vert not a FD but I am running a T-70 big street port TII stock trany and rear diff ACT +80 six puck copper ceramic, Micro tech huge front mount Intercooler six pin dowel on the motor
picts on page 3 of the vert now I swapped everything into my mint Black Vert so more picts comming soon
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/503122/1
picts on page 3 of the vert now I swapped everything into my mint Black Vert so more picts comming soon
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/503122/1
Originally Posted by Red-Rx7
2) In general, the more boost you run, the more heat is generated. The more heat that is generated, more potential for the gas to ignite. If the gas ignites too early, you have pre-ignition, which is what blows your apex seals out. As a safety measure, people typically will only run pump gas (remember, ignites easier) up till 15 psi (some take it higher, but with more risk). Once people go past this mark, the pump gas becomes unstable and tends to ignite upon entering the chamber. Thus, people use "race gas" which has a higher octane (ignites less-easy) which allows for a normal cycle of combustion.
bcrotary.com
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: mission
Heat has been the biggest issue I can put on 500km (300 Miles) a day on my car with my job heat temps are 86c to 94c that is with a 4core rad and some well placed heatsheilding heat soak is a big fear for me so street boost is 12lbs when we go racing the temps get higher than ever but we run c16 only and dyno tune before the racing starts
FEARED
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: Winchester, VA
Originally Posted by iambuzzy
I am running 425rwhp now at 12lbs with a microtech the boost map on the ltx8s is only to a max of 20lbs so how can he say 22lbs+? My cars both are Microtech and doweled with Bosh dual pumps 4x 1000 injectors and a serge tank. I have a hard time thinking obout 600+rwhp my ACT +80 six puck clutch brand new slips over 500rwhp @ 6500 rpm. Us Canadians are rotary crazy but we dont have anything streetable over 550rwhp but there are 8 of us in the 400+ club
bcrotary.com
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: mission
It takes a lot of tuning and money to get to the big reliable hp 400-450 rwhp is the most you can do with a big intercooler and 94 octane. A surge tank is a good Idea you dont want your pump to glup any air. and a huge rad helps keep it all cool. A stand alone is great as long as you have a DASH unit to go along with your Microtech air temps and engine temp warning lights can be a life saver. The best investment is a wide band you know instantly if you loose fuel or an injector goes bad. there is no point in spending the big bucks just to blow it up.
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Washington State
If your serious about making that huge power, the cheapest and most reliable way would be to swap a GM LS1 engine into your RX7. Sorry to break it to you but driving a 600whp 13B is not going to be as much fun as you think. That and your motor will probably pop within 40000 miles. If you swap in the LS1 you get reliable 320 whp bone stock and you'll get the torque of a 600hp 13B out of the box. Also, the LS1 is much lighter than the 20B. Complete LS1 RX7's have been built for $15000 including car cost (3rd gen).
If you do decide to use the LS1, you will lose the rotary which many people think is sacreligious. But most people don't realize that they like the RX7 for it's quickness, power, and great handling. You don't lose any of these with the LS1 so there is nothing to lose and everything to gain.
If you do decide to use the LS1, you will lose the rotary which many people think is sacreligious. But most people don't realize that they like the RX7 for it's quickness, power, and great handling. You don't lose any of these with the LS1 so there is nothing to lose and everything to gain.
Originally Posted by GDJ
If your serious about making that huge power, the cheapest and most reliable way would be to swap a GM LS1 engine into your RX7. Sorry to break it to you but driving a 600whp 13B is not going to be as much fun as you think. That and your motor will probably pop within 40000 miles. If you swap in the LS1 you get reliable 320 whp bone stock and you'll get the torque of a 600hp 13B out of the box. Also, the LS1 is much lighter than the 20B. Complete LS1 RX7's have been built for $15000 including car cost (3rd gen).
If you do decide to use the LS1, you will lose the rotary which many people think is sacreligious. But most people don't realize that they like the RX7 for it's quickness, power, and great handling. You don't lose any of these with the LS1 so there is nothing to lose and everything to gain.
If you do decide to use the LS1, you will lose the rotary which many people think is sacreligious. But most people don't realize that they like the RX7 for it's quickness, power, and great handling. You don't lose any of these with the LS1 so there is nothing to lose and everything to gain.
So how much lighter is an LS1 compared to a 20B? A 600 HP LS1 isn't going to be cheap unless you plan on using a 150+ shot of NAWS!!! Sure they make 300-400 out of the crate, but 600 hp isn't cheap on any motor.
Super Snuggles
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,091
Likes: 34
From: Redmond, WA
Originally Posted by the_glass_man
So how much lighter is an LS1 compared to a 20B?
A 600 HP LS1 isn't going to be cheap unless you plan on using a 150+ shot of NAWS!!! Sure they make 300-400 out of the crate, but 600 hp isn't cheap on any motor.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 0
From: N/A
You're really ignorent..it's ok not my problem
Show me your stock ls1 dyno sheets making 600whp with 150 shots ..or show me the pistons rings after you fry the motor.
Ive seen Supras run low 11's on the stock turbos under 500hp. Dont start this ignorent ****.
Show me your stock ls1 dyno sheets making 600whp with 150 shots ..or show me the pistons rings after you fry the motor.
Ive seen Supras run low 11's on the stock turbos under 500hp. Dont start this ignorent ****.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally Posted by darkphantom
a 13b 600hp can be dont with 2 t04R or 2 t66. but that would be alot of heat under the engine bay.
Red RX7 car i know could easily hit 210mph
Red RX7 car i know could easily hit 210mph
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Washington State
Who said anything about N2O? 600rwhp is alot easier on a LS1 than a 13B. Nitrous is one was. Forced induction will put you way way over that mark.
Yeah speed isn't cheap, but you know what's even more expensive? Rebuilding your 600hp 13B every 20k miles.
Yeah speed isn't cheap, but you know what's even more expensive? Rebuilding your 600hp 13B every 20k miles.
Originally Posted by GDJ
Who said anything about N2O? 600rwhp is alot easier on a LS1 than a 13B. Nitrous is one was. Forced induction will put you way way over that mark.
Yeah speed isn't cheap, but you know what's even more expensive? Rebuilding your 600hp 13B every 20k miles.
Yeah speed isn't cheap, but you know what's even more expensive? Rebuilding your 600hp 13B every 20k miles.
?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM
eplusz
General Rotary Tech Support
15
Oct 7, 2015 04:04 PM
