jyqtman81

This is my first dealing into rotary engines. I love my 93 rx7, but this thing has been a pain in the butt since i got it. After working throught a few small problems I now have a big one. Everytime the car accelerates and the boost guage gets to zero vacuum the engine starts cutting out and the fuel gauge shows an instant lean condition. It runs fine until the turbos start to make boost then it acts like it's running out of gas. I checked the O2 sensor just to try and get lucky but it was fine. The car was running great before this randomly happened. someone told me these cars are the greatest car you'll ever own or the biggest pain in the @ss! just point me in the direction to start looking and I would be happy. Oh I dumped some octane boost in just to eliminate the bad gas theory too. This car is virtually bone stock too

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

You need to do your homework BEFORE owning one of these exotic cars. Best to read up on all the mechanical aspects before buying, that way you are prepared to deal with it. The search feature helps you a lot to learn also. Shop manual is a must, and tools to perform the work are like scalpals to the Surgeon. That said, what would you think the first thing to do would be ? Engine code -correct. Check for a code, and remember that the check engine light DOES NOT necessarly have to be on. Ten to ground on the diagnostic module and turn the key to on. Do that first off then see what is happening. Then look for loose or disconnected vac hoses, especially the boost sensor on the firewall. Engine could be in LIMP mode due to a disconnected vac hose here. It goes on and on. Troubleshooting these cars is an art, one that is perfected thru study, trial and error, persistance, understanding, a manual and of course....a little help from your friends here.

good luck

tom

Xearo_FD3S

Wow... that was like, really inspirational.

willjs7

iTrader: (1)

dont use that **** bro, its a waste of money


get a vaccume diagram and check and make sure the vaccume lines are hooked up properly and in good shape then work from there

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

and buy good gas.

hus

/\ I would say check the things that you are noramlly comfortable with checking on any car first. Some you have done already. Some probably aren't going to help you with your problem but it will help you to get familiar with where things are located on the car..such as, changing oil and oil filter and changing the spark plugs. Everything is different on this car but some things still install the same as other cars (if that makes any sense). Like I said check for things you know you are comfortable checking and then buy a shop manual, find you a rotary expert or an expert rotary shop and let them take you under their wing and teach you the car. The guys on here have been a huge help to me and some of them can guide you into what you need to do as if they were standing there looking at your car but....study, study, study this car before yanking hoses and pulling out solenoids and valves...it ain't no 302 or 350 that's for sure!

KevinK2

pull y pipe hose look for splits (if y-pipe was not upgraded).

dohc-vtec_eg

does ur car sound like it has a super charger? The car doesnt jerk or anything correct? U probably got boost leak or a vaccum leak. Common problem. Just check from y-pipe to elbow of boost leak. If thats okie, then u'l have to check ur vaccum lines (rats nest)

rynberg

I don't know why you guys keep bringing up boost or vacuum leaks...they have nothing to do with the problem.

Either the map sensor is not connected or working properly, the TPS is way off, or there's a problem with the fuel pump relay/secondary injectors coming online.

USCmatt

Adding octane boost wouldn't eliminate getting a batch of bad gas. Two years ago I had the same symptoms. The car ran perfect on a long drive. Then I went to drive back home, I could get up to about 30mph but that was about it. I also couldnt get over 2k rpms, no boost at all.

Problem: I had just filled up the day before, but what I didnt know was that I was getting some dirty water pumped into the tank.

Result: Severly clogged fuel filter. The remaining gas was drained into a 5 gallon bucket and you could see about 1 gallon of water separate from the gas.

One of the injectors also got clogged in the process. It was an expensive problem to fix, and I've never been back to that gas station.


Note: In talking with a representative from another gas station franchise about the problem, I was told that there is always a layer of water at the bottom of every underground tank. It's all dirty runoff water from the parking lot, but the gas stations are supposed to monitor the fuel level so it never gets that low, but she noted that it does happen where someone gets water in their tank.

dubulup

BINGO


buy or download the manual and go thru the entire fuel system.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I had similar problem. My car seems like to be running out of gas with I try speeding up and boosting few weeks ago. The car just won't boost up or speed up at all. When I was easy on the throttle with no boost at all, I can speed up the car slowly can rev up the engine to 6000 rpm no problem. I just drove home slowly that day and start checking my vaccum line.

Someone said I had a bad tank of gas but I do not have time to confirm that yet. I hope my problem is caused by bad tank of gas and not any other major thing.

What else could go wrong if it is not related to bad gas?

BC

willub and company

iTrader: (3)

sounds like limp dick mode. i fixed this on my car recently. same symptoms and everything. it was the metering oil pump harness. boost would get to about 1 psi and then it would cut out. this sounds identicle to my problem. check the codes and goodluck.

willub and company

iTrader: (3)

im sorry, but i dont think it is a fuel problem. the car is making 0 psi way before the secondary injectors are active. once again, limp mode.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I have PFC though and not sure if I can find the engine codes.

BC

rynberg

You can still do the ground the Pin 10 trick. The write-up is in the FAQ thread. However, it is very easy to check the voltages of all the sensors using the Commander and verifying they are OK using the table in Section F of the FSM.

Well, I gave a few different options... Seriously though, you are probably right, it is most likely going into Limp mode from a serious Code.

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

Lord oh lord.

CantGoStraight

Interesting, I always thought the fuel pump went to 12v and secondary injectors came on at 3k and above even if you weren't boosting ? ? ? ?

rynberg

The secondary injectors only come online once the primaries exceed a certain duty cycle. I think this was determined to be 50-60% on the primaries.

CantGoStraight

Good to know for sure, can you clear up the fuel pump going to full 12v above 3k. I had a serious bucking with my car when I tried driving it under light load conditions (not getting on it) and this cleared up almost completely when I repaired a few grounds (tail pipe mainly made the biggest difference) soetimes I get the feeling these cars preferr full throttle as opposed to just crusing around. (-:

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the information. I will check with the Commander first to get all sensor readout.

BC

willub and company

iTrader: (3)

BC. im not sure of your problem, i was originaly posting towards the guy that started this thread. goodluck with it though.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your reply. I have to wait till end of April before I can start finding out what's going on. My car ran perfect for the pass 4 yrs and all the sudden this problem happened. **** me off

BC

jyqtman81

ok thanks for all the replies. I checked and have one engine code for the "secondary fuel injectors open circuit" any one tackeled this before? any ifno would be freat before I get after it!