my first attempt at fixing my FD (need answers)
#1
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my first attempt at fixing my FD (need answers)
well tonight was the first night i dove into my FD. the reason i dove into it was because ive been smelling gas. ive done quite a bit of reading and figured it was the FPD, but upon removal of the UIM and after inspection i see no visible leaks. so now about the only thing i see is a bit of "wetness" right by the injector up front.
also in my night of fun i was trying to get a better look so i removed my turbo precontrol and wastegate control and what do ya know, i broke the turbo precontrol nipple.
so now i come to these questions:
what other fuel problems do FDs have over 100K???
would u replace the turbo and wastegate solenoids or go with some MBCs???
where would i get a MBC such as a hallman???
next, would i need 2 of them? 1 for wastegate and 1 for precontrol???
sorry for all the questions guys, im new but trying to learn as quickly as i can.
thanx
dustin
also in my night of fun i was trying to get a better look so i removed my turbo precontrol and wastegate control and what do ya know, i broke the turbo precontrol nipple.
so now i come to these questions:
what other fuel problems do FDs have over 100K???
would u replace the turbo and wastegate solenoids or go with some MBCs???
where would i get a MBC such as a hallman???
next, would i need 2 of them? 1 for wastegate and 1 for precontrol???
sorry for all the questions guys, im new but trying to learn as quickly as i can.
thanx
dustin
#2
"I see triangles"
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If you see wetness you have a fuel leak. It's prob the lines that run in the back. I had the same thing, they only leaked when heated and they looked normal cooled. If you bend or put pressure on the hoses you are likely to see lots of cracks.
#3
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"MBCs"?
Has your car had the front fuel line replacement done?
Take a Q-tip, rub it in the wetness and smell it. I bet it will smell like raw fuel.
You have a fuel leak that could end up in an explosive situation if you don't fix it.
From your description your fuel line is bad or secondary injectors are leaking fuel. Since your car has over 100K miles on it it might not be a bad idea to start replacing things such as your FPD, your fuel lines, and your fuel injector O-rings while you are in there.
This is not a small job by any means but you need to make sure that your fuel system is not leaking. Fire is a big killer of RX-7s.
If you don't have a silicone hose job then you will need to do that as well when you replace your solenoids that you broke.
Don't twist off hoses from the solenoids, they are brittle and break easily. Get a razor blade and cut them off carefully.
Becareful with the wiring harness while you are in there.
Has your car had the front fuel line replacement done?
Take a Q-tip, rub it in the wetness and smell it. I bet it will smell like raw fuel.
You have a fuel leak that could end up in an explosive situation if you don't fix it.
From your description your fuel line is bad or secondary injectors are leaking fuel. Since your car has over 100K miles on it it might not be a bad idea to start replacing things such as your FPD, your fuel lines, and your fuel injector O-rings while you are in there.
This is not a small job by any means but you need to make sure that your fuel system is not leaking. Fire is a big killer of RX-7s.
If you don't have a silicone hose job then you will need to do that as well when you replace your solenoids that you broke.
Don't twist off hoses from the solenoids, they are brittle and break easily. Get a razor blade and cut them off carefully.
Becareful with the wiring harness while you are in there.
#4
DinoDude
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Go up to the 3rd Gen archives/important posts
Then to "My boost control setup - perfect 10-8-10 pattern". Discusses Manual boost controlers, where to buy and so on.
Then to "My boost control setup - perfect 10-8-10 pattern". Discusses Manual boost controlers, where to buy and so on.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
i guess you could also check (if i am not mistaken)the robbinette site hes got some step by step instructions i believe for making the turbos run in parallel ,so you wont need some of those selanoids(cleans up under the UIM) and formerporsheguy is right while youre there do a silicone hose replacement ,man that will save you a lot of headache later
#6
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yeah, i read alot of posts on the fuel problems but couldnt remember all the problems. thats y i wanted to get in there right away and fix it. hell now that the IM is off i was thinkin of ordering all those parts to fix whatever is broken.
what is the advantage of goin parallel instead of sequential??? i dont think ive read anything on that. thanx again guys, im lovin this forum, everything gets answered quickly.
what is the advantage of goin parallel instead of sequential??? i dont think ive read anything on that. thanx again guys, im lovin this forum, everything gets answered quickly.
#7
The Power of 1.3
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Do a search for pros and cons of seq and non-seq (or parallel). This has been answered many a time.
Fixing whatever you can right now is definitely a good idea. If you're looking to get stock replacement parts, call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda, he gets 3rd gen owners really good deals. (888)-533-3400
Fixing whatever you can right now is definitely a good idea. If you're looking to get stock replacement parts, call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda, he gets 3rd gen owners really good deals. (888)-533-3400
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#8
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thank u again, theres very few ppl that tell where they got products from. they need to have a vendors corner or something on this site for excellent prices to shop around to beat the competition. theres very few links in ppl sigs too.
#9
Mr. Links
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If your turbos are working fine, don't mess with the hoses (removing or changing). As far as the solenoids, just buy a used one on the forum. Plenty of people have either converted to single turbos or non-seq and will sell you one cheap. Just ask.
As for the wetness, do as FormerPorscheGuy suggested and see if it's fuel. Chances are, it is. If it's on the fuel rail, it's probably an injector leak. Look in the manual. There is a procedure for priming the fuel system to test for leaks. If the FPD is leaking, you'll see it clearly. Injector leaks are usually not noticed until the car is actually running.
Whether or not your injectors are leaking, you should go ahead and have the injectors cleaned and flow balanced. You really don't want to be digging in there again any time soon.
Here is a good post about reconditioning the injectors:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=232553
RC Engineering is who most people trust for injector cleaning and flow balancing:
http://www.rceng.com/service.htm
Good luck!
As for the wetness, do as FormerPorscheGuy suggested and see if it's fuel. Chances are, it is. If it's on the fuel rail, it's probably an injector leak. Look in the manual. There is a procedure for priming the fuel system to test for leaks. If the FPD is leaking, you'll see it clearly. Injector leaks are usually not noticed until the car is actually running.
Whether or not your injectors are leaking, you should go ahead and have the injectors cleaned and flow balanced. You really don't want to be digging in there again any time soon.
Here is a good post about reconditioning the injectors:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=232553
RC Engineering is who most people trust for injector cleaning and flow balancing:
http://www.rceng.com/service.htm
Good luck!
#10
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Originally posted by Mahjik
If your turbos are working fine, don't mess with the hoses (removing or changing).
If your turbos are working fine, don't mess with the hoses (removing or changing).
He will have to mess with them to fix the fuel system. If he hasn't done a silicone hose job yet he will need to when he ripps out the rats nest to get to the FPD and the primary injectors, if that is what is causing his problem (even if its not, replacing the FPD is not a bad idea)
If he has 100K miles on the original fuel system components then he needs to replace most all of them while he is in there so he doesn't have to rip everything out again to fix the next leak.
Like I said before, no matter which way you look at it a fuel leak is a big job to fix.
#11
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
If he has 100K miles on the original fuel system components then he needs to replace most all of them while he is in there so he doesn't have to rip everything out again to fix the next leak.
If he has 100K miles on the original fuel system components then he needs to replace most all of them while he is in there so he doesn't have to rip everything out again to fix the next leak.
Given the limited information, IMO, replace only what needs to be replaced. People usually cause more harm then good when replacing things "just to replace them".
#13
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well to answer a few questions, the car is BONE stock. most of the vacuum lines under the IM are in decent shape. the ones connected to the solenoids are hardened so they need replaced. its not my primary driver anyways so i figure i would just do the hose job. as far as condition of the turbos goes, i have no clue. i can feel the loss of boost at the crossover point so i suppose thats good news. ill try to prime the system and see if i can find it.
#14
Do it right, do it once
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Primary injectors are prone to leakage. Replace only the hoses you tinker with unless you can convince yourself you can be careful. Use an exacto blade to slit the hose carefully where it meets the solenoid nipple. Twist the hose very slightly and it will come off the nipple.
Non-sequential is an absolute waste of a good street driven car. I can understand driving them on road courses like that but not on the street. It sucks!
Buy the fuel hose recall kit when you reassemble your car. List price is $97.
Non-sequential is an absolute waste of a good street driven car. I can understand driving them on road courses like that but not on the street. It sucks!
Buy the fuel hose recall kit when you reassemble your car. List price is $97.
#15
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Originally posted by turbojeff
Non-sequential is an absolute waste of a good street driven car. I can understand driving them on road courses like that but not on the street. It sucks!
Non-sequential is an absolute waste of a good street driven car. I can understand driving them on road courses like that but not on the street. It sucks!
#16
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
most of the vacuum lines under the IM are in decent shape. the ones connected to the solenoids are hardened so they need replaced.
most of the vacuum lines under the IM are in decent shape. the ones connected to the solenoids are hardened so they need replaced.
#18
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what other stuff should i mess with. i was lookin over it last night and found a broken check valve too. so i think im just goin to replace everything that i can get too easily.
majik, do u have a link to a post for simplifying the vacuum system and also gettin rid of the emissions crap. we dont have emissions testing here and i dont plan on sellin the 7 anytime soon.
majik, do u have a link to a post for simplifying the vacuum system and also gettin rid of the emissions crap. we dont have emissions testing here and i dont plan on sellin the 7 anytime soon.
#19
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
majik, do u have a link to a post for simplifying the vacuum system and also gettin rid of the emissions crap. we dont have emissions testing here and i dont plan on sellin the 7 anytime soon.
majik, do u have a link to a post for simplifying the vacuum system and also gettin rid of the emissions crap. we dont have emissions testing here and i dont plan on sellin the 7 anytime soon.
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...lification.htm
IMO, don't change anything if your boost pattern is already fine (or if you don't have a boost gauge, until you verify your boost pattern is either good or bad).
#21
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
no boost guage, i was waitin till X mas until the damn thing started to smell like gas. engine temp, oil pressure and boost is what i was goin to buy.
no boost guage, i was waitin till X mas until the damn thing started to smell like gas. engine temp, oil pressure and boost is what i was goin to buy.
#22
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well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
#23
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
#24
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
#25
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thanx for the replies. i only smell it up front with the hood open in the garage. if i put my nose back farther in the engine bay it goes away, thats y im suspecting the front O ring on the injector.