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my first attempt at fixing my FD (need answers)

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Old 11-26-03, 09:18 PM
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my first attempt at fixing my FD (need answers)

well tonight was the first night i dove into my FD. the reason i dove into it was because ive been smelling gas. ive done quite a bit of reading and figured it was the FPD, but upon removal of the UIM and after inspection i see no visible leaks. so now about the only thing i see is a bit of "wetness" right by the injector up front.
also in my night of fun i was trying to get a better look so i removed my turbo precontrol and wastegate control and what do ya know, i broke the turbo precontrol nipple.
so now i come to these questions:
what other fuel problems do FDs have over 100K???
would u replace the turbo and wastegate solenoids or go with some MBCs???
where would i get a MBC such as a hallman???
next, would i need 2 of them? 1 for wastegate and 1 for precontrol???
sorry for all the questions guys, im new but trying to learn as quickly as i can.
thanx
dustin
Old 11-26-03, 09:24 PM
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If you see wetness you have a fuel leak. It's prob the lines that run in the back. I had the same thing, they only leaked when heated and they looked normal cooled. If you bend or put pressure on the hoses you are likely to see lots of cracks.
Old 11-26-03, 09:32 PM
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"MBCs"?

Has your car had the front fuel line replacement done?

Take a Q-tip, rub it in the wetness and smell it. I bet it will smell like raw fuel.

You have a fuel leak that could end up in an explosive situation if you don't fix it.

From your description your fuel line is bad or secondary injectors are leaking fuel. Since your car has over 100K miles on it it might not be a bad idea to start replacing things such as your FPD, your fuel lines, and your fuel injector O-rings while you are in there.

This is not a small job by any means but you need to make sure that your fuel system is not leaking. Fire is a big killer of RX-7s.

If you don't have a silicone hose job then you will need to do that as well when you replace your solenoids that you broke.

Don't twist off hoses from the solenoids, they are brittle and break easily. Get a razor blade and cut them off carefully.

Becareful with the wiring harness while you are in there.
Old 11-26-03, 09:32 PM
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Go up to the 3rd Gen archives/important posts

Then to "My boost control setup - perfect 10-8-10 pattern". Discusses Manual boost controlers, where to buy and so on.
Old 11-26-03, 09:54 PM
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i guess you could also check (if i am not mistaken)the robbinette site hes got some step by step instructions i believe for making the turbos run in parallel ,so you wont need some of those selanoids(cleans up under the UIM) and formerporsheguy is right while youre there do a silicone hose replacement ,man that will save you a lot of headache later
Old 11-26-03, 09:59 PM
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yeah, i read alot of posts on the fuel problems but couldnt remember all the problems. thats y i wanted to get in there right away and fix it. hell now that the IM is off i was thinkin of ordering all those parts to fix whatever is broken.
what is the advantage of goin parallel instead of sequential??? i dont think ive read anything on that. thanx again guys, im lovin this forum, everything gets answered quickly.
Old 11-26-03, 10:07 PM
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Do a search for pros and cons of seq and non-seq (or parallel). This has been answered many a time.

Fixing whatever you can right now is definitely a good idea. If you're looking to get stock replacement parts, call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda, he gets 3rd gen owners really good deals. (888)-533-3400
Old 11-26-03, 10:15 PM
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thank u again, theres very few ppl that tell where they got products from. they need to have a vendors corner or something on this site for excellent prices to shop around to beat the competition. theres very few links in ppl sigs too.
Old 11-26-03, 10:15 PM
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If your turbos are working fine, don't mess with the hoses (removing or changing). As far as the solenoids, just buy a used one on the forum. Plenty of people have either converted to single turbos or non-seq and will sell you one cheap. Just ask.

As for the wetness, do as FormerPorscheGuy suggested and see if it's fuel. Chances are, it is. If it's on the fuel rail, it's probably an injector leak. Look in the manual. There is a procedure for priming the fuel system to test for leaks. If the FPD is leaking, you'll see it clearly. Injector leaks are usually not noticed until the car is actually running.

Whether or not your injectors are leaking, you should go ahead and have the injectors cleaned and flow balanced. You really don't want to be digging in there again any time soon.

Here is a good post about reconditioning the injectors:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=232553

RC Engineering is who most people trust for injector cleaning and flow balancing:

http://www.rceng.com/service.htm

Good luck!
Old 11-26-03, 10:28 PM
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Originally posted by Mahjik
If your turbos are working fine, don't mess with the hoses (removing or changing).
I have to raise an objection to this statement.

He will have to mess with them to fix the fuel system. If he hasn't done a silicone hose job yet he will need to when he ripps out the rats nest to get to the FPD and the primary injectors, if that is what is causing his problem (even if its not, replacing the FPD is not a bad idea)

If he has 100K miles on the original fuel system components then he needs to replace most all of them while he is in there so he doesn't have to rip everything out again to fix the next leak.

Like I said before, no matter which way you look at it a fuel leak is a big job to fix.
Old 11-26-03, 10:38 PM
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Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
If he has 100K miles on the original fuel system components then he needs to replace most all of them while he is in there so he doesn't have to rip everything out again to fix the next leak.
Ah, but that's the question. We don't know the condition of his current components (vacuum job done, original engine, etc). Old doesn't necessarily mean they need to be replaced. Brittle or damaged mean they need to be replaced.

Given the limited information, IMO, replace only what needs to be replaced. People usually cause more harm then good when replacing things "just to replace them".
Old 11-26-03, 10:48 PM
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MBC Manual Boost Controller

That doesn't really have anything to do with the broken solenoid. Get a replacement solenoid. You can probably get one cheap in the parts section. It's easy enough to install it. No reason to go non-seq just to save money for a solenoid.
Old 11-26-03, 10:56 PM
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well to answer a few questions, the car is BONE stock. most of the vacuum lines under the IM are in decent shape. the ones connected to the solenoids are hardened so they need replaced. its not my primary driver anyways so i figure i would just do the hose job. as far as condition of the turbos goes, i have no clue. i can feel the loss of boost at the crossover point so i suppose thats good news. ill try to prime the system and see if i can find it.
Old 11-26-03, 11:10 PM
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Primary injectors are prone to leakage. Replace only the hoses you tinker with unless you can convince yourself you can be careful. Use an exacto blade to slit the hose carefully where it meets the solenoid nipple. Twist the hose very slightly and it will come off the nipple.

Non-sequential is an absolute waste of a good street driven car. I can understand driving them on road courses like that but not on the street. It sucks!

Buy the fuel hose recall kit when you reassemble your car. List price is $97.
Old 11-26-03, 11:27 PM
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Originally posted by turbojeff
Non-sequential is an absolute waste of a good street driven car. I can understand driving them on road courses like that but not on the street. It sucks!
One mans opinion. Don't rule out non-seq until you've tried it.
Old 11-27-03, 09:43 AM
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
most of the vacuum lines under the IM are in decent shape. the ones connected to the solenoids are hardened so they need replaced.
Just because the lines are hard doesn't mean they need to be replaced. Take turbojeff's advice. Only replace hoses that you have to mess with.
Old 11-27-03, 09:57 AM
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ill put money on it that, your primarie injectors are shot
Old 11-27-03, 10:00 AM
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what other stuff should i mess with. i was lookin over it last night and found a broken check valve too. so i think im just goin to replace everything that i can get too easily.
majik, do u have a link to a post for simplifying the vacuum system and also gettin rid of the emissions crap. we dont have emissions testing here and i dont plan on sellin the 7 anytime soon.
Old 11-27-03, 10:06 AM
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
majik, do u have a link to a post for simplifying the vacuum system and also gettin rid of the emissions crap. we dont have emissions testing here and i dont plan on sellin the 7 anytime soon.
Do you have a boost gauge? What was your boost pattern before you started all this?

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...lification.htm

IMO, don't change anything if your boost pattern is already fine (or if you don't have a boost gauge, until you verify your boost pattern is either good or bad).
Old 11-27-03, 10:08 AM
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no boost guage, i was waitin till X mas until the damn thing started to smell like gas. engine temp, oil pressure and boost is what i was goin to buy.
Old 11-27-03, 10:10 AM
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
no boost guage, i was waitin till X mas until the damn thing started to smell like gas. engine temp, oil pressure and boost is what i was goin to buy.
My advice is to fix one thing at a time. Deal with the fuel odor first. After that get a boost gauge and see what's going on with the car. If you need to mess with the hoses, do it at that time. Since this is your first time dealing with repairing the car, keep it simple.
Old 11-27-03, 10:14 AM
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well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
Old 11-27-03, 10:18 AM
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
I am in the process of doing the same thing to mine. Be sure to replace everything rubber in your fuel system including your FPD. Get in there and feel around. Good luck and God speed.
Old 11-27-03, 10:24 AM
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Originally posted by 1 2 NV
well mechanically im really good, so simple does sound good but im lookin to do as much as possible while im in there if u know what i mean. i already have to fix a couple things so i figured i would just keep goin.
i did prime the system last night and to no avail. i could smell fuel but no visible leaks. so im guessin its the O rings on the injectors.
I'm tellling you that you will only see it when the motor is running hot. It's the back fuel lines, they expand when hot and leak a little bit. I had the same thing. bend one and you should see alot of cracks in the hose, when it's cold you will see nothing. They will look fine.
Old 11-27-03, 10:28 AM
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thanx for the replies. i only smell it up front with the hood open in the garage. if i put my nose back farther in the engine bay it goes away, thats y im suspecting the front O ring on the injector.


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