My custom oil cooler project
08-08-04, 05:49 PM
#1
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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My custom oil cooler project
Sorry, I wish I had a dig cam because my web cam doesn't do this justice at all but thought i'd share what I could.
08-16-04, 03:03 PM
#5
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You're begging for trouble by putting the oil thermostat and the lines below the chassis.
Oil cooling will not be needed if all your oil is running onto the pavement...
Oil cooling will not be needed if all your oil is running onto the pavement...
08-16-04, 03:11 PM
#7
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The test fitting didn't work with the fittings above. It may have worked, i'll find out when Atilla does his with the themastat mounted on the frame rail or when I do the passenger side and have more time. It actually clears the tow hooks but I will improve upon it wit the 19 row for clearance.
I will be correcting this by changing the drivers side to a 19 row. The 24 row will be mounted on the passenger side. I like the setup since nothing moves nor twists, it's all extremely solid. The cooler is supported on all points and the thermastat is held solid by the titanium lines.
I tried to link the large pictures but it didn't work for me. OK, i'll try again, since the other ways asks for pw.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v299/g...t=P8140067.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/v299/g...t=P8140066.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/v299/g...t=P8140068.jpg
I will be correcting this by changing the drivers side to a 19 row. The 24 row will be mounted on the passenger side. I like the setup since nothing moves nor twists, it's all extremely solid. The cooler is supported on all points and the thermastat is held solid by the titanium lines.
I tried to link the large pictures but it didn't work for me. OK, i'll try again, since the other ways asks for pw.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v299/g...t=P8140067.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/v299/g...t=P8140066.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/v299/g...t=P8140068.jpg
Last edited by GoRacer; 08-16-04 at 03:20 PM.
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08-16-04, 03:19 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
the thermastat is held solid by the titanium lines.
If you want the lowest profile possible then you use banjo connections. They would give you much more clearance.
08-16-04, 03:24 PM
#10
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Yeah, I didn't like the thermastat hanging with the CWR kit. I will use -AN to banjo on the engine side later on but I don't see how you can use it on the cooler side. The SS lines are mounted with adel clamps. My original idea was to mount the therstat to the frame rail but I had clearance issues with my custom FMIC setup.
Last edited by GoRacer; 08-16-04 at 03:29 PM.
08-16-04, 03:33 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
[i]but I don't see how you can use it on the cooler side[/i
I assumed the cooler has female ports. Are those aluminum colored ports on the cooler itself not removable fittings or are they male and permanently attached? If male a banjo won't gain you anything without cutting them off and welding on a short theaded bung for a banjo bolt.
Last edited by DamonB; 08-16-04 at 03:35 PM.
08-16-04, 04:33 PM
#12
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Goracer that's a good setup.
The logistics and space makes it necessary to fit the lines from below. Damon, I don't think there is any other way around that. My crooked willow kit is exactly the same. However, I like the placement of your thermostat much better than the "hanging" type that CWR has.
The logistics and space makes it necessary to fit the lines from below. Damon, I don't think there is any other way around that. My crooked willow kit is exactly the same. However, I like the placement of your thermostat much better than the "hanging" type that CWR has.
08-16-04, 05:01 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by 7racer
The logistics and space makes it necessary to fit the lines from below. Damon, I don't think there is any other way around that.
No knock on what GoRacer has done but when you're doing it custom there's practically no limit to how you can do it.
IMO the bottom of the cooler being another inch higher in the air would make a world of difference.
08-16-04, 05:48 PM
#14
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Ok gotcha! Where do the lines for the stockers enter the cooler? I can't remember....
Looking at the factory service manual, I think they are on the bottom too no?
Looking at the factory service manual, I think they are on the bottom too no?
08-16-04, 06:02 PM
#15
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The stocker setup hooks up from below. Kits like CWR are laid out virtually the same as the stock system is.
For all lines, I would recommend getting 3/4" or so heater core line/hose from any autoparts store. Open one side up, wrap over the lines and ziptie. Extra insurance if they rub against anything. That is what I did when I put my CWRs on.
For all lines, I would recommend getting 3/4" or so heater core line/hose from any autoparts store. Open one side up, wrap over the lines and ziptie. Extra insurance if they rub against anything. That is what I did when I put my CWRs on.
08-16-04, 06:15 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by 7racer
Where do the lines for the stockers enter the cooler?
Last edited by DamonB; 08-16-04 at 06:24 PM.
08-16-04, 06:21 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by DamonB
Sure there is. Rotate the cooler 180 degrees and attach the lines to the top of the cooler. Close the stock ports up and weld new ones on the back of the cooler. Use a slightly smaller cooler so you can raise it higher. Remove the stock ports on the cooler and use banjo connections along with a slightly smaller cooler.
No knock on what GoRacer has done but when you're doing it custom there's practically no limit to how you can do it.
IMO the bottom of the cooler being another inch higher in the air would make a world of difference.
- Yes stock theremastat and connections are built in to the bottom of the cooler.
- CWR connects on the bottom but they use a 19row.
- The elbow fittings are female to male. The connector on the oil cooler is a 2" male.
Last edited by GoRacer; 08-16-04 at 06:27 PM.
08-16-04, 06:57 PM
#18
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CWR has 2 19row mocals correct? how much are you saving over the CWR kit? also, what about ducting? without good ducting that seals, that larger cooler might do you no good. thats why i was considering the CWR route...because i ws not confident that i could make decent pieces for ducting (i was thinking CF or fiberglass, but i have not worked w/ either one as of now)
08-16-04, 07:35 PM
#19
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^ Initially my single 24row cost about $100 more then CWR's (19row) and without a duct. Doing both, it's about $100 less but then the paying for custom isntall ...well, I won't list that cost "lol". I tried to contact CWR originaly since their website was/is still up, but they never answerd and I had go to make my own kit. Unfortunately i'm not talented enough to do it myself and it cost me but so did the engine rebuild and I don't want to pay for another one any time soon.
Last edited by GoRacer; 08-16-04 at 07:37 PM.
08-16-04, 08:13 PM
#20
built my own engine
Originally Posted by DamonB
They are attached to the bottom of the cooler(s) along with the thermostat but extend out from the back so they don't hang below the cooler itself. (aftermarket lines pictured)
they're for sale if anyone wants them, $225 shipped w/ -10AN fittings
Last edited by 93BlackFD; 08-16-04 at 08:22 PM.
08-16-04, 10:09 PM
#22
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Most evrything from www.racerpartswholesale.com but some fittings from www.summitracing.com or you can buy direct from www.batinc.net which will save time but not money and finally there is www.bakerprecision.com and www.earls.com which are local to me and I could drive there and pick it up but with tax and gas I won't save anything.
08-17-04, 12:09 AM
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When I make my own kit, I'm going to use the slipon hoses with Aeroquip fittings.
A few people have told me there is no harm in using them, and that once they are on, they are on tight.
It scares the **** out of me, but I'll try it
A few people have told me there is no harm in using them, and that once they are on, they are on tight.
It scares the **** out of me, but I'll try it
08-17-04, 12:20 AM
#24
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by Flybye
When I make my own kit, I'm going to use the slipon hoses with Aeroquip fittings.
A few people have told me there is no harm in using them, and that once they are on, they are on tight.
It scares the **** out of me, but I'll try it
A few people have told me there is no harm in using them, and that once they are on, they are on tight.
It scares the **** out of me, but I'll try it
08-17-04, 01:27 AM
#25
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There is a banjo bolt tapped for a oil temp sensor made by someplace and I can't remember who sells it, does anybody know? I can't find my link for it. 