blondeRX7babe

Alright I just got the 93 base rx-7 in my custody in Orlando, but after the drive up from ft lauderdale i noticed the engine was a bit hot and even lightly smoking. I proceeded to pop the hood and it was smoking around the top left area. couldn't really find where exactly it was coming. has anyone expierenced this? recomendations?
Laura

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

By top left area are you meaning near the firewall on the passenger side?

If so, what color was the smoke? If you have oil leaking from the turbos, it can burn off and have smoke coming up in that area.

You really won't know until you get in there and see what's going on (or take it to a mechanic).

Shinobi-X

How did you know your engine was a bit too hot? These engines do run rather hot, but without a temp gauge you are kind of working in the dark. Was there any audible bubbling? Was the smoke light whitish? and did you catch a scent?

I've experienced this as well, but it has only happened when the car was leaking coolant, and overheating (240F on the temp guage).

r0t0r-rooter

Mine did that just a few weeks ago (smoke coming from behind the y-pipe area). For me, the problem turned out to be the rubber turbo coolant hose swelling & leaking @ the clamp. It would drip out, follow the metal coolant line all the way to the rear turbo, and drip off the copper crush washer/banjo bolt onto the downpipe. This was the reason for the smoke.

The only way to really check that hose is to remove the airpump (i think, but I just did that anyways), and it will be clear as day. If you get a chance, take off the intake filters, intake pipes, y-pipe, etc and look for a dried coolant trail. It will be white & crusty If you can't see anything, then go rent/borrow a pressure tester and see where the leak is.
G'luck

gaebing

If it's the oil return line leaking oil onto exhaust, how hard is it to fix ? Is there any write-up for that?

Thanks

DaedelGT

Exact same thing happened to me. The coolant hose that's easier to get to looked like it had an anuerism right next to the clamp. $11.98 from Malloy Mazda for both. It's a major pain in the *** to check the harder to get one with the Y-Pipe on. If you can get under the car, remove the rear turbo's intake piping (2 10mm nuts securing), and then the Y-Pipe. It's connected by 4 nuts, again, 10mm each, and 6 vacuum hoses if I remember right.

If you want any help in that area just PM me; my Y-Pipe is still off and the whole setup is fresh in my memory. If you need any help with airpump removal, feel free to PM for that as well.

DaedelGT

That's pretty simple. The return lines are underneath the turbos, and are actually pretty easy to get to IMO. Easier than the hidden coolant line.

Check page 3, of the lubrication system section of the manual. I'll go look under the car in a second to make sure it wouldn't be too hard.

*Edit: Looks pretty easy. Both ends are secured by two nuts each.

blondeRX7babe

Thanks guys! Any other reccomended upgrades, mine is bone stock.
I do need to reupholstery the drivers seat. Know any places in FL?
I also need to look into a new radio or speakers, they are still stock non-bose. and are making a scratchy.
laura

DaedelGT

Get the radiator checked out or do it yourself. Look for discoloration or deterioration of the plastic end tanks. If that looks in bad shape at all, replace it with an aluminum radiator. Also check all of the coolant lines you can, which you will be doing pretty much in the inspection of the turbo coolant lines. If you have the cash, get a downpipe to get heat away from the engine. Get at the very least a boost guage, and while not as important, look into getting a water guage, or linearizing the stock guage. What else? Ummm... Check the vacuum lines for brittleness, especially those underneath the UIM (upper intake manifold). While you are in there check the throttle body coolant lines (which you normally would not really see). Make sure you change all of your fluids, and filters if you don't have any indication of the current filters' age. You may also want to perform the fan mod or the miata thermoswitch mod to keep the fans coming on at a cooler point.

Mostly, if you see the pattern, all you really want to do is maximize the efficiency of the cooling system (and prevent failure), and prevent any boost leaks that you are able to. The boost guage will allow you to accurately diagnose the vacuum leaks that will occur, and the water temp guage will allow you to keep tabs on your temps.

Shinobi-X

Getting a temp guage, or something better than stock is rather important. The more info the driver gets, the better. Look into getting a boost guage as well.

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

19, Cute, Blonde, Drives an FD, let me know if your ever in Washington . As for your car, Get a Boost Gauge, and a Water Temp Gauge, these cars tend to get really hot, especially down in Flordia, my car almsot cooked several times when I was in California, luckily I saw my temps rising on my Power FC Commander. I would also recommend getting a downpipe, aluminum ast, catback, and a Power FC /w Commander if you want to splurge and or a boost controller. With the commander the Power FC can let you monitor water temp, air temp, knock, battery voltage, and more so you can monitor all sorts of problems, I have found it invaluable.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Go to http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/reliability.html for all of the reliability mods you should consider. Mine was a bone stock R2 and I intend to fill out all reliability mods. So far I have: downpipe, efini y-pipe, boost gauge, Si hoses. Will have: miata thermoswitch, water temp gauge, aluminum radiator.

My stereo sounds like crap. I put in 4 new polk speakers, and they sound a little better, but I'm convinced the headunit is crap. It'll be a long while until my financial priorities get there.

I just got done with messing with the seat upholstery. I learned that you can remove/install the seat covers using a diagonal cutters (to snip off the old hog rings), and a set of hog ring pliers will put it back together in a hurry. If you pay someone to reupholster, just spend the $20 for the hog ring pliers (www.eastwoodco.com) and hog rings and take the cover off yourself. If you can run a sewing machine you might do it yourself. If you want R1 style seat fabric PM BATMAN - he can get the original material imported (it's not common).

Dave

maxpesce

If you do it yourself don't even bother w/ the Hog Rings - I just replaced them with some Nylon Wire Ties (use 8"ers & cut of the excess) - plenty strong and a lot easier to do, plus you don't have to buy any new tools.

Also (for you too DAVE) for the Scratchy Stereo it may be the CENTER (5th) Speaker - Mine was scratchy and Crackled horribly, The Ctr Spkr & Amp were Bad, It now sounds MUCH MUCH Better since I put in a good amp and replaced the speaker w/ an Alpine (model SPS 0519) speaker. no scratches or crackles. I also have a non-Bose ctr amp available for sale ($25+shipping) if you want it.

blondeRX7babe

Yea, the stereo is one of my last priorities too. When I turn the volume all the way up it is barely audible. So i wondered what may help that.
I have been hunting around for a new headunit and some speakers, possibly alpine or sony. Thanks for those links, they definitely helped.
Laura

memmi

As far as audio goes, pick up one of the last year's Alpine models such as the CDA-7894. They have an amber mode and a blankable display. At night the instrument panel looks very clean and consistant in all amber.

Check it out here:
http://homepage.mac.com/mattemmi/PhotoAlbum10.html

Speakers are a total pain in the ***. Only a few 6.5's work in the front as they have to be ultra narrow. Eclipse makes about the only one i've found.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Good idea, but I don't see how that would work where the cloth fastens to the wires embedded in the foam. The hog ring pliers are totally trick for that, and at $20 I'd hardly sweat it. In fact, now that I have the tool I wouldn't hesitate to disassemble the seat cover just to clean a stain.

I'll be looking into that. My plan is to buy a new headunit and use the amp in there and disconnect the center speaker, but maybe your idea too.

I forget what model speakers I bought, but I thought they were pretty easy to fit. I bought from Crutchfield and they included a bolt pattern adapter that made the fronts pretty straightforward.

Dave

TwinTriangles

There should probably be more blonde rx7 babes, IMO...