JaNusSolSumnus

The engine is out of my FD, and will hopefully goto the builder this Saturday. I should see it back in a week and install it the following week. I'm sending off my injectors to be cleaned as well as having my turbo wastegate ported.

Here is the progress:









http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...hotside002.jpg

~Kris

JaNusSolSumnus

I'm gonna take the turbos to a turbo tech, have them inspected just to be SAFE and also have them port the WG out so I can run low 10-12psi without creep or spike concerns. Even my low milage turbos have some cracking on the manifold and mine are the newer revision ones too... taking them off has made me think about a custom setup with new turbos using Mazda's setup... something I may do when I'm in my final years engineering for UCF and can afford such a project.

As she sits for the evening... I really need to bag and mark all the bolts... I've already forgotten the purpose of a few... I may be asking for assist on that during assemblie.


Not sure but I think this lady is the culprit.


Turbos, these will get a thurough cleaning before going back on, mostly oil from the y-pipe leak I already fixed and from the downpipe gasket I already replaced.


Craks on turbo manifold, none of real concern.... I've seen some GAPING holes in the past.


~Kris

TT_Rex_7

Who are you having rebuild the motor?

-Alex

jeremyb

Nice plan. How long did it take to pull the motor?

Jeremy

JaNusSolSumnus

I will be having a local guy named Raoul doing the work, he doesnt typically work on other peoples engines but has a lot of experiance in racing and building up engines for racing.

It took about 3 hours of off and on prep work (wiring, intake ****, AC and PS, hoses and exhaust, etc) and then another 1.5 hours to actually pull the motor.. I spent maybe another 45 minutes getting all the other stuff off so it could goto the builder.

~Kris

sicass7

wow it only took 1.5 hours? thats pretty damn fast! have you done this before?

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Photo is down.
Good luck on the rebuild.

JaNusSolSumnus

Photobucket is having issues on one of their servers.. should be back in about an hour. :/

Sicass7, I havent pulled the motor before but I had another person assisting so I wasnt pulling it alone. I consider two people a MUST to properly remove the motor from the car.

~Kris

PhoenixDownVII

You can pull the motor pretty fast so long as you have 2 very important things in place (which takes more time than the actual work

1. Organized labeling/procedure

2. The Right TOOLS

It's kind of like when you paint a room, you spend hours taping up the window frame and heater at the base and then meticulously paint with a brush along it....so when comes time to use the roller, it takes all of 5 min. :P

JaNusSolSumnus

Phoenix is so right... during my tranny swap I didnt have the proper tools and it took me two months to complete. I got an airgun and airratchet and plucked the motor out in no time.

~Kris

jonfc3s

iTrader: (3)

Tools should be respected more than they are,... they just make life so much easier. Anyways, looking good man, keep it up and she will be up and running in no time.

Jon

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Cool dude, glad your not getting a reman .

Have you looked through the spark plug holes? If all your seals are intact.... man I feel bad for you.

JaNusSolSumnus

Okay, I'm visiting the builder Sunday to go over what will be replaced and what will be saved.

Basically I ran lean and cracked an apex seal... he said it was a very small peice that let go which explains why my turbos survived. The rotor was slightly damaged but can be fixed however the housing is gone.

~Kris

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Just for others to know - it's about impossible to "see" a broken apex seal through the exhaust ports. The tip of the seal is typically what breaks off, and usually it's just a TINY piece, like smaller than a grain of rice. Many times the piece imbeds itself in the rotor or housing, which saves the turbos .

Dale

boostd2rtr

You had really get that secondary turbo checked man there is way to much oil blowby in the pressure side I am almost positive from that picture that the secondary is going bad.

JaNusSolSumnus

Can you better explain what you are talking about exactly? Do you mean the Intake sides of the turbo? Because its covered in oil from a leaky y-pipe.

~Kris

boostd2rtr

First off locate your secondary turbo ...... look at the pressure side not intake side....now look at the primary side housing see the difference one is shiny aluminum and one is BLACK BAD!! That housing should never be black.

JaNusSolSumnus

I'm still not following you...

The intake side looks fine, as does the exhaust side... There is normal carbon build-up from what I can tell in the exhaust side and there isnt any oil on the turbo side. Now the outsides of the turbos are a differant story. The intake side on the primary is coated with oil from as I said a leaky y-pipe.. the secondary has a good coat of carbon in it from a really bad exhaust leak I had. I highly doubt my turbo is going considering this set has only 20k on it and no shaftplay what so ever.

~Kris

boostd2rtr

Here you go cracker!

JaNusSolSumnus

It must be the lighting in that image, the primary cause the flash much more than the secondary in the pic.

~Kris

akiratdk

I'm wondering why is the rotory engine so vurnuarble to blowing up so easily...... Is it because you do so much modifications and no fuel enrichment so.... running lean is the primary reason for poping the motor???? I thought rotorys are suposed to be more reliable by having less moving parts then a piston motor...........
Can someone explain this to me????
and good luck with rebuilding your motor.. I hope everything will go well...

JaNusSolSumnus

Akiratdk, if you read the beginning of my thread... this was MY fault... not the motor. This is probably the case with MOST rotary failures whether someone wants to admit it or not.

I was running too much boost with a fuel filter that was OLD, due to the restrictive flow of an old fuel filter I ran lean at the top of the fuel table and cracked a seal.

~Kris

shawnk

I skipped the labeling/procedure - saves time on taking it out...We will see how that goes on the way back in...

I do have the right tool though! batting .500!

I pulled mine alone...and it was pretty easy, but I didnt pull transmission with it. You need 2 for sure if you pull the trans at the same time.