my '95: Preliminary Outlook and Planning
10-19-13, 05:17 PM
#1
my '95: Preliminary Outlook and Planning
(Should this be a build thread....?)
Received my near completely stock '95 PEP From TX, 68k mi. earlier this month. My second FD. Wrecked my first, young and stupid, it was salvaged and is currently owned by someone. That one was modded and tuned 300whp when i bought it, trying to do it right this time.
Been out of the FD game for a little while. I feel much more knowledgeable now than then, though.
Goals:
Focus on reliability, refreshing suspension/ride, and getting the interior crisp, before going in to power. Immediate goal is to get her road worthy enough to be pushed without worry.
Mainly spirited street driving,
occasional road racer and track; but very new to the racing scene so am taking my time.
Was stored in enclosed storage in TX from '08-13. "Started every quarter". new battery, tires. And...
(420mi ago) Rotary Performance Receipt for:
spark plug cleaning
coolant/oil/brake/5 quarts of idemitsu 'gear oil' (tranny only? or enough fordiff too?) fluid changes/flushes
fuel system cleaning (unsure about injectors but likely??)
fuel and oil filters
Used fuel pump
Used fuel level sending unit/wiring harness (which seems to be broken because its showing 1/2 tank after 4 gallons of usage!)
pillowballs reported to be in good condition
brakes low
Compression is 7.8 7.8 7.7F (113 113 112) and 7.6 7.8 7.8 (110 113 113)rear
Current Mods:
N1 Duals
Alum AST
In the works:
Pettit hi temp coated DP + Both gaskets
RB Catback instead of N1's (personal pref)
VDO Boost/H2OTemp Gauges (beware if trying to install VDO in the TB line)
FC Thermoswitch
R1 Strut tower bar
Near Future:
DIY IC/Rad ducting
Airpump moo mod
EBC Red pads and stainless lines
SuperPro bushing kit (KIT130K)
IRP Motor mounts
Banzai crossmember
Strengthening ground connections
Next Stage:
Koni Yellow Ground Control combo
OE Strut mounts
Stage 3 (end of 2014?):
Stock airbox mod
Hi flow cat
99 Y-Pipe/Crossover
Koyo Rad (considering non n-flow because v-mount seems inevitable)
hallman manual boost controller to 10-8-10
On into the future:
Wheels
Sway Bars
PFC, tune, modest 10.5 psi
Supra Pump
Pillowballs (as necessary)
R1/2 Dual Coolers
AEM H20 Injection
Maintenance Items:
I bought a complete silicon hose kit from hiperformancestore.com that I'll use as necessary to replace hoses, not ready to tackle the entire job just yet.
Box of idemitsu synthetic, OE filters, OE NGK Plug wires, getting plugs soon. will change em all in about 1000mi.
Current Problems (from important to less):
1)I am experiencing a good amount of vibration around 6700 RPM, including the shifter. I have only taken it that high in 3rd so far, I'm not sure how bad it is in others/neutral. Figure the superpro bushings and irp mounts will solve it. If the PPF is bad, replace with OEM and use a banzai crossmember regardless.
2)Initial boost test showed a 10-8-9 pattern. Primary got up to 11 on a cold night, but post 5k RPM never reached back to 10. I have read 95's secondary boost was possibly toned down for reliability reasons but I am unsure. Vacuum at a crisp 19 in/hg
3)Idles around 750/8 once warm. Blipping the throttle up to about 2k and letting off, it falls down smoothly until a brief pause 1.1 or so, then falls down to 750. Occasional popping from exhaust accompanies this. Not sure if this the nature of the rotary, or if I should inspect the TPS.
4)Fuel level sender is messed up as described above.
-Belts were pretty squeaky, changed the PS/AC one with relative ease, now having trouble with lower left alternator nut. (pretty new to under-the-hood stuff. but I do my reading.)
-I've fixed most of the hood squeaks I was experiencing with WD40 on the latch and some rubber washers underneath two of the stoppers. Ordered new rubber from Ray for the heck of it.
-Antenna is broken, but motor still runs and makes a sickening grinding noise any time the radio is on/off. Ordered the mast from Ray, I've replaced that before on my last one.
Questions, comments, suggestions welcome.
Am I on the right track?
Any mods/maintenance I missed?
Any mods that seem out of order to you?
Any suggestions for the problems I listed?
C H E E R S!
Received my near completely stock '95 PEP From TX, 68k mi. earlier this month. My second FD. Wrecked my first, young and stupid, it was salvaged and is currently owned by someone. That one was modded and tuned 300whp when i bought it, trying to do it right this time.
Been out of the FD game for a little while. I feel much more knowledgeable now than then, though.
Goals:
Focus on reliability, refreshing suspension/ride, and getting the interior crisp, before going in to power. Immediate goal is to get her road worthy enough to be pushed without worry.
Mainly spirited street driving,
occasional road racer and track; but very new to the racing scene so am taking my time.
Was stored in enclosed storage in TX from '08-13. "Started every quarter". new battery, tires. And...
(420mi ago) Rotary Performance Receipt for:
spark plug cleaning
coolant/oil/brake/5 quarts of idemitsu 'gear oil' (tranny only? or enough fordiff too?) fluid changes/flushes
fuel system cleaning (unsure about injectors but likely??)
fuel and oil filters
Used fuel pump
Used fuel level sending unit/wiring harness (which seems to be broken because its showing 1/2 tank after 4 gallons of usage!)
pillowballs reported to be in good condition
brakes low
Compression is 7.8 7.8 7.7F (113 113 112) and 7.6 7.8 7.8 (110 113 113)rear
Current Mods:
N1 Duals
Alum AST
In the works:
Pettit hi temp coated DP + Both gaskets
RB Catback instead of N1's (personal pref)
VDO Boost/H2OTemp Gauges (beware if trying to install VDO in the TB line)
FC Thermoswitch
R1 Strut tower bar
Near Future:
DIY IC/Rad ducting
Airpump moo mod
EBC Red pads and stainless lines
SuperPro bushing kit (KIT130K)
IRP Motor mounts
Banzai crossmember
Strengthening ground connections
Next Stage:
Koni Yellow Ground Control combo
OE Strut mounts
Stage 3 (end of 2014?):
Stock airbox mod
Hi flow cat
99 Y-Pipe/Crossover
Koyo Rad (considering non n-flow because v-mount seems inevitable)
hallman manual boost controller to 10-8-10
On into the future:
Wheels
Sway Bars
PFC, tune, modest 10.5 psi
Supra Pump
Pillowballs (as necessary)
R1/2 Dual Coolers
AEM H20 Injection
Maintenance Items:
I bought a complete silicon hose kit from hiperformancestore.com that I'll use as necessary to replace hoses, not ready to tackle the entire job just yet.
Box of idemitsu synthetic, OE filters, OE NGK Plug wires, getting plugs soon. will change em all in about 1000mi.
Current Problems (from important to less):
1)I am experiencing a good amount of vibration around 6700 RPM, including the shifter. I have only taken it that high in 3rd so far, I'm not sure how bad it is in others/neutral. Figure the superpro bushings and irp mounts will solve it. If the PPF is bad, replace with OEM and use a banzai crossmember regardless.
2)Initial boost test showed a 10-8-9 pattern. Primary got up to 11 on a cold night, but post 5k RPM never reached back to 10. I have read 95's secondary boost was possibly toned down for reliability reasons but I am unsure. Vacuum at a crisp 19 in/hg
3)Idles around 750/8 once warm. Blipping the throttle up to about 2k and letting off, it falls down smoothly until a brief pause 1.1 or so, then falls down to 750. Occasional popping from exhaust accompanies this. Not sure if this the nature of the rotary, or if I should inspect the TPS.
4)Fuel level sender is messed up as described above.
-Belts were pretty squeaky, changed the PS/AC one with relative ease, now having trouble with lower left alternator nut. (pretty new to under-the-hood stuff. but I do my reading.)
-I've fixed most of the hood squeaks I was experiencing with WD40 on the latch and some rubber washers underneath two of the stoppers. Ordered new rubber from Ray for the heck of it.
-Antenna is broken, but motor still runs and makes a sickening grinding noise any time the radio is on/off. Ordered the mast from Ray, I've replaced that before on my last one.
Questions, comments, suggestions welcome.
Am I on the right track?
Any mods/maintenance I missed?
Any mods that seem out of order to you?
Any suggestions for the problems I listed?
C H E E R S!
10-19-13, 08:43 PM
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Sounds like you're headed the right direction.
Good call ditching the N1 Duals. That is hands down the WORST FD exhaust out there.
New fuel level sender isn't that pricey new, I'd just get a new one. I also like to get some stainless allen head fasteners to replace the screws that hold the fuel pump assembly to the tank - you can get those from McMaster-Carr for a cheap price. Can't remember the size, but you can pull one screw out and measure it.
Good call too on the ceramic coated downpipe, that makes a VERY big difference in underhood temps.
A set of Viton check valves would be a smart idea too, PM me for info on getting a set
.
The 5 quarts of Idemitsu gear oil sounds right - it's 3 quarts for the trans, 2 for the diff.
The high RPM vibration could be any number of things. Hell, that exhaust could be bumping the subframe causing it, or it could be worn motor mounts.
Good luck with the new car! You might want to do a build thread at some point to document the evolution.
Dale
Good call ditching the N1 Duals. That is hands down the WORST FD exhaust out there.
New fuel level sender isn't that pricey new, I'd just get a new one. I also like to get some stainless allen head fasteners to replace the screws that hold the fuel pump assembly to the tank - you can get those from McMaster-Carr for a cheap price. Can't remember the size, but you can pull one screw out and measure it.
Good call too on the ceramic coated downpipe, that makes a VERY big difference in underhood temps.
A set of Viton check valves would be a smart idea too, PM me for info on getting a set
.The 5 quarts of Idemitsu gear oil sounds right - it's 3 quarts for the trans, 2 for the diff.
The high RPM vibration could be any number of things. Hell, that exhaust could be bumping the subframe causing it, or it could be worn motor mounts.
Good luck with the new car! You might want to do a build thread at some point to document the evolution.
Dale
10-19-13, 09:11 PM
#3
Looks like a good plan.
I'm not sure why you are having a problem with the VDO sender in the TB line. I didnt cut the line when I installed mine. I just bought an extra 2" of hose, and added it to the other side of the sender assemble. I did have to add a few washers to the sender to make sure it didnt block the flow in the line. I eventually stopped using that sender location as the reading were not accurate on the highway (too low). I reconnected my Greddy upper radiator hose sender. It gives more accurate readings, but doesnt start until the t-stat starts to open.
PM me when you are ready to modify your stock airbox.
Good luck, Adam
I'm not sure why you are having a problem with the VDO sender in the TB line. I didnt cut the line when I installed mine. I just bought an extra 2" of hose, and added it to the other side of the sender assemble. I did have to add a few washers to the sender to make sure it didnt block the flow in the line. I eventually stopped using that sender location as the reading were not accurate on the highway (too low). I reconnected my Greddy upper radiator hose sender. It gives more accurate readings, but doesnt start until the t-stat starts to open.
PM me when you are ready to modify your stock airbox.
Good luck, Adam
10-21-13, 05:37 PM
#6
Thanks for the replies!
rx7.com sent me an incorrect sized alternator belt (6PK1355--automatic), impatiently went to O'Reilly and got the proper Gates one (6PK1310), no more squeaky cold starts!
The thing is, the sender (1/8th) they provided has built in ground, like, it uses its threads. Its intended to be tapped into the block and share ground with that. Called up egauges, they sent me a sender that has a floating ground connection, BUT it is huge (14mm) and metric. So now have requested a THIRD sender that is 3/8ths so I can just tee into the hose. It would have been fine if I had tapped the t-stat, but without that, it needs ground somehow. pretty much took 3? weeks for gauges lol.
That is/was a dilemma for me. I know the advantages of PFCs but 1200 for the unit + 700 for install and tune is just a huge chunk. I read that the stock ECU is fine with mods as long as boost is controlled at 10psi. With the manual controllers I suspect I will be okay, would have the same mods as damian who set it up:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-arch...attern-242324/
No animals, but headlights are definitely going to be done at some point. Just a matter of dough . I am out here in cali and the city streets/highways are pretty well lit, and I don't do backroads at night (not until some good hids), so they arent AS much of a priority. I'm debating between SB bi xenon and DIY sleepy eyes:
https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext...ersion-284859/
rx7.com sent me an incorrect sized alternator belt (6PK1355--automatic), impatiently went to O'Reilly and got the proper Gates one (6PK1310), no more squeaky cold starts!
That is/was a dilemma for me. I know the advantages of PFCs but 1200 for the unit + 700 for install and tune is just a huge chunk. I read that the stock ECU is fine with mods as long as boost is controlled at 10psi. With the manual controllers I suspect I will be okay, would have the same mods as damian who set it up:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-arch...attern-242324/
. I am out here in cali and the city streets/highways are pretty well lit, and I don't do backroads at night (not until some good hids), so they arent AS much of a priority. I'm debating between SB bi xenon and DIY sleepy eyes:https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext...ersion-284859/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
distr0
Canadian Forum
3
10-07-15 08:17 AM
ls1swap
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
12
10-01-15 07:58 PM