3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old 03-08-08, 11:07 PM
  #26  
you smell somethin?

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im probably wrong. but i was looking at your boost controller, and the line comes off the LIM instead of the conpressor housing. also the hoses seem long. wont these things cause the wast gate reaction time be slow?

also nice build, and i wish i had your garage.

ryan

Last edited by smoke wagon; 03-08-08 at 11:19 PM.
Old 03-12-08, 12:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Phaz
like the fuel system A++++++ ill be upgrading mine soon cant decide between your setup or the Ultimate Fuel System on rx7 net. if you dont mind me asking what made you decide on this one?
i love the design of it, especially the extra port on the secondary rail for future upgrades. the modern shape and incredible quality caught my eye as well. it's available in more than one color too

I'm sorry man that nobody here pointed this out. You could have saved yourself a ton of money. The problem is your tranny was installed up-side-down. You'd think they would have caught that before it left the factory. No need to modify your engine. Beautiful build though. Keep the pics coming.
damn if only i had caught that earlier LoL

im probably wrong. but i was looking at your boost controller, and the line comes off the LIM instead of the conpressor housing. also the hoses seem long. wont these things cause the wast gate reaction time be slow?
you are right about the way i hooked it up, but good question. i'm not too sure myself. what is the right way to do it? i've never hooked up an external WG, so i just hooked my boost controller up the way it was with the stock twins.
Old 03-12-08, 12:57 PM
  #28  
Lost You in the Rear View

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NOW ALL I NEED IS THAT STUPID ELBOW OFF THE TURBO!!

OH YEAH.. TIME FOR THAT POLISHED ALTERNATOR!


Last edited by RotaryBred; 03-12-08 at 01:03 PM.
Old 03-12-08, 01:52 PM
  #29  
HAHA V8

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Nice build, I like your ignition system.
Old 03-14-08, 09:37 PM
  #30  
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that is an amazing looking setup. engine pics saved.
Old 03-23-08, 02:18 PM
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done!



Old 03-23-08, 03:03 PM
  #32  
Bann3d. I got OWNED!!!

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looks great bro
Old 03-23-08, 03:34 PM
  #33  
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anyone have a trick for removing the alternator nut so i can replace the pulley?
Old 03-23-08, 03:43 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RotaryBred
done!




Not quite... you should not have the TII pressure cap/AST elimination adapter AND the small hose going from your thermostat housing to the radiator.
Old 03-23-08, 07:09 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by HDP
Not quite... you should not have the TII pressure cap/AST elimination adapter AND the small hose going from your thermostat housing to the radiator.
Why do you say that? The way he has it set up is perfectly fine.

Dave, I thought you got an alternator from me, no? Also, I would have went with a different color of vacuum hose, I have some nice deep blue Sard hosing and i love it in my VR engine bay
Old 03-23-08, 08:37 PM
  #36  
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Dave, I thought you got an alternator from me, no? Also, I would have went with a different color of vacuum hose, I have some nice deep blue Sard hosing and i love it in my VR engine bay
i did... you never sent it... wtf!?!?! nah haven't ordered one yet. it wasn't on my list of necessities until i got this stupid project running. i've been spending every last dime i have on it to get it ready for the spring. need to have it broken in now. also need a good tune to do so. probably this week
Old 03-23-08, 09:10 PM
  #37  
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Read...

Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Why do you say that?

http://robrobinette.com/coolant_tank.htm
Old 03-23-08, 10:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by HDP
I read that back in like 1999 or 2000. Personally, I like running the line from the t-stat housing down towards the rad because it eliminates potential failure points......caps are very failure prone, and a short hose length with bolts is just ugly. I've had my FD set up the same way for about 4 years now, with zero cooling problems *shrug*
Old 03-24-08, 04:12 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
I read that back in like 1999 or 2000. Personally, I like running the line from the t-stat housing down towards the rad because it eliminates potential failure points......caps are very failure prone, and a short hose length with bolts is just ugly. I've had my FD set up the same way for about 4 years now, with zero cooling problems *shrug*

Well, you asked why I say that...
This could be debated like FMIC vs. VMIC vs. SMIC, but there is nothing written confirming your method. There's no proof there's no ill effects from running the coolant hoses as you described other than your personal experience. And if you read the ENTIRE link I posted, you should know that your method could have possible cooling problems, so why chance it, especially with a car as prone to overheating as ours.
Old 03-24-08, 04:27 PM
  #40  
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The whole set up looks excellent.

One question; Why did you go with a curved cold pipe from the intercooler to the elbow? The straight one you had before was better in my opinion...
Old 03-24-08, 06:03 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Why do you say that? The way he has it set up is perfectly fine.
If I am looking at the picture correctly he is running the stock 0 pressure cap that went on the fill neck, but he is running it on the 2nd gen neck. This will allow coolant to pass through into the overflow (down that red silicone line attached to the neck) before it ever builds pressure. This isn't good. A system with no pressure will run really hot and overheat.

You have to run one or the other. Run an AST with the stock neck, or switch to the 2nd gen fill neck, and run a pressurized cap at that location.

If you are running an AST and the pressurized cap is on that, it has to be mounted higher (highest point in the system), otherwise it is serving no purpose.
Old 03-24-08, 06:35 PM
  #42  
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very nice!

=)
Old 03-24-08, 06:49 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by cozmo kraemer
If I am looking at the picture correctly he is running the stock 0 pressure cap that went on the fill neck, but he is running it on the 2nd gen neck. This will allow coolant to pass through into the overflow (down that red silicone line attached to the neck) before it ever builds pressure. This isn't good. A system with no pressure will run really hot and overheat.

You have to run one or the other. Run an AST with the stock neck, or switch to the 2nd gen fill neck, and run a pressurized cap at that location.

If you are running an AST and the pressurized cap is on that, it has to be mounted higher (highest point in the system), otherwise it is serving no purpose.
This all assumes you aren't running Evan's Coolant at 0 pressure... If that is the case then disregard....
Old 03-24-08, 06:53 PM
  #44  
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beautiful!
Old 03-24-08, 07:04 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by cozmo kraemer
If I am looking at the picture correctly he is running the stock 0 pressure cap that went on the fill neck, but he is running it on the 2nd gen neck. This will allow coolant to pass through into the overflow (down that red silicone line attached to the neck) before it ever builds pressure. This isn't good. A system with no pressure will run really hot and overheat.

You have to run one or the other. Run an AST with the stock neck, or switch to the 2nd gen fill neck, and run a pressurized cap at that location.

If you are running an AST and the pressurized cap is on that, it has to be mounted higher (highest point in the system), otherwise it is serving no purpose.
I completely missed that.....dave, are you running a spring-equipped cap or the one that's flat on the backside? Maybe I'm going blind, but I'm having a hard time telling.
Old 03-24-08, 07:12 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by RotaryBred
So since i popped my motor....I started spending thousands of dollars on stuff
the FD saga

relocated coils look good
Old 03-24-08, 07:15 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by HDP
Well, you asked why I say that...
This could be debated like FMIC vs. VMIC vs. SMIC, but there is nothing written confirming your method. There's no proof there's no ill effects from running the coolant hoses as you described other than your personal experience. And if you read the ENTIRE link I posted, you should know that your method could have possible cooling problems, so why chance it, especially with a car as prone to overheating as ours.
You make a good point.....I just spoke to Alex over at Gotham and he said that ideally you'd want to tig weld both nipples shut. He did say however that he's used the hose method in the past (around 2004 maybe) and has had zero problems.

Btw, didn't mean to come off as dismissive in my previous post, I know that Kevin Kelleher is a very smart dude, so it's probably a good idea to listen to him. See ya at DGRR
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